Mopar1973Man

Not what I was talking about. I'm like you I live in the middle of nowhere and long ways from towns. That's not the issue. What I getting at is VP44 truck have been able to clear 20 MPG by most of the members here. Now P-pump trucks tend to get much lower MPG's. Bigger the HP/TQ number the lower average MPG number typically. Like myself local fuel is $3.329 vs when I get to Payette, ID at $2.999 a gallon. I can drive 125 miles on 1/16 of a tank. Done it more than once. So I'm one of the efficiency nuts that can really squeeze the MPG's out of these truck being my all-time high record is 27.2 MPG. Rather impossible for a P-pump 24V to do.

Just remember a P-pump 24V will have less efficiency and the MPG's are typically lower. Hopefully you are not looking for a daily driver in this realm. As a track and racing they are awesome.

If seen stock head units give up. I've also seen amped speakers in the front doors give up.

Centeral Timer Responded in blue bold...

Typically a good power steering flush will do wonders. 332k and still using my OEM steering box. I've got a minor input shaft leak. The flush needs to be done where you're pushing fresh fluid through the system from the reservoir to the steering box return line (not the hydrobooster).

Like myself I'm running an HX35/40 hybrid turbo (60/60/12) with DAP +75HP injectors (7x0.0085) tuned with Quadzilla Adrenaline. I'm not currently wire tapped but it really tough to get the EGTs past 1100*F. I'm also running Jacobs exhaust brake.

Can't stack Hotrod pumps with tuners with timing. You need to turn down your timing to compensate for this issue. Hotrod pump has the timing mechanically altered when the pump is built.

Here is the article for this problem.

I tend to agree with @Me78569 . I'm no longer a fan of canned tuners like Smarty S03 or Edge EZ, Edge Comp, or Edge Juice. Most of the people here are jumping into the Quadzilla Adrenaline tuners and the custom tunning. The only other tuner right now in the same class is the Smarty UDC / Smarty touch but remember Smarty is still only a 60-65 HP tuner yet compared to a 180 HP Quadzilla Adrenaline tuner. Price wise the Quadzilla bet it hands down sorry to say. I'm running DAP (7x0.0085) +75HP injectors and a 35/40 Hybrid Turbo (60/60/12) run pretty darn good with just CANBus fueling only on the Quadzilla Adrenaline. Ask @Me78569 about his injector pop testing thread that a good read! Thanks. I wish I had the time to wander websites like in the past but when I'm managing other websites now for their owners it keeps me rather busy. That's why you don't see me on CF much anymore.

Yeah that my point if I leave my grid heater disconnected I'll never have another alternator problem ever. The point is something is placing excessive load on the alternator causing the diodes to overheat and fail then the AC noise is the result of the diodes overheating. So my point is what is causing the diodes to get hot and overheat? The only load in the entire system is either the grid heaters banging away on the alternator at idle or batteries that have little to no capacity left and require constant charging because of shorted cells. Batteries are in good condition yet so it lead me back to the loads. The only one that could be creating the overheat is the grid heaters. Reason, I keep coming back to this is my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 is still running the factory OEM alternator for 22 years and 169k miles and never been replaced. Same darn alternator being its a Denso. Smaller starter loads and no grid heaters. Never had a TQ Conv. lock and unlock issue on that truck from day one. Yeap... It got a 46RE transmission. So why is it this truck has a factory OEM alternator for 22 years? Again this shows excessive loads are the cause of the diode failure from overheating. Still only occurred after 10 years. So what load wise has changed...

The reason why the 140 Amp fuse was installed is for the stupid people that would manage to hook up a set of jumper cables reversed polarity and attempt to cook the diodes out of the alternator. Which the would be a dead short and the fuse would blow out automatically.

Something that might be interesting. You can clearly see the ECM and VP44 ground in this diagram but take notice where the grid heater solenoid ground and PDC grounds come together. Now I know @W-T knows that when a solenoid is de-energized there a surge that comes from the solenoids. This is most likely feedback on the grounds that feed the ECM and VP44 being it's the same G115 ground. Again the G115 ground feeding the PCM as well.

That's wrong... LOL

That's because the front axle can be sitting still and the front two sensors show ZERO speed or very low speed and then the rear axle hops up to 60 MPH so the computers cannot understand how half a truck is sitting still or barely moving and the rear axle is 60 plus MPH. POOF! P0500 code tossed.

Correct. When timing is wrong engine load will rise wasting fuel.

Not a problem...

Here is my wiring diagrams. The alternator is a simple circuit. The blue field lead should have +!2V with key on. Then green lead should be a variable ground to control the field and control charging voltage. You might check the alternator fuse to make sure it's not blown.

Best I can provide.

Now tell me if the cruise state engine load goes up or down from the change. I'm betting down. If so then the timing is too advanced.

Try for about 18.8* to about 19.2* at 2,000 RPM cruise timing. Then for performance timing it should drop to about 15* this boost builder. I'm not exactly attempting for good MPG been driving hard, fast at times, even pushing hard on snow and ice with 4WD operation so my numbers are kind of well, LOWER than my hard pressed 21 MPG I pulled using my current tune. The other factor is winterized diesel requires a slight retarding of the timing to keep going. Larger injectors require a small bump advanced to give to ignite the fuel. Crazy balancing act. I'm waiting for summer fuel to come back and really put the test to this tune.

I typically just get the error numbers then come back here and get the right definition of the error codes.

You don't want to attempt to set the cruise timing too high. My article explains on how to get a good number that works well.

Ok... Let me tag @AH64ID he's my 3rd Gen tech here. He's really good. Then let me get the codes. At least this will define the problems. It looks like there is a wiring issue with injectors #1 and #2.

Need to read my write up....

Most scanners are generic and do not have the proper definitions for Diesel Engine or model specific error codes above 1000 in numbers. All error codes above 1000 is year, make and model specific so generic definitions tend to wrong 99.9% of the time.