Mopar1973Man

Like myself, I clear 250 miles per day, 750 miles a week, 3,000 miles a month. This last year I've cleared 65,000 miles alone. I'll be towing my 31' foot Jayco RV here next month. Then towing my BigTex 70TV trailer for firewood. I live in an area where tow trucks and cell phone don't exits typically. VP44 pump is very reliable pump and can produce the same reliability as a VE pump. Four things to look for. 1. AC noise excessive (Only 24V thing still applies to existing PCM, ECM, and remaining computers!) 2. Poor Fuel Filtration (This applies to both VE and VP44) 3. Poor fuel pressure (This applies to both VE and VP44 since both rely on fuel flow for cooling) 4. Poor fuel lubricity (This applies to both since standards of fuel changed to 520 HFRR for lubricity score - Bosch requires <460 HFRR)

That's a 1st gen engine, 12V cam, 12V heads, etc. It was designed that way. Kind of different. Apples to Oranges here. Now retrofitting a VE pump to 24V you have to take a lot into consideration. VE Pump is smaller than VP44 (less volume). Being able to time it correctly. etc. The list goes on. Might ditch the electronics but going to impose a whole new set of hurdles like future diagnostics... Not sure if he's in a Smog state or inspection state. This might pose another issue. Impressive. Not any worse than my 27.2 MPG on a VP44. (Edge Comp, +50 HP injectors, and a BHAF - stock exhaust and intake)

You going to lose a bunch in the VP44 removal. VP44 are VERY reliable. My last VP44 lasted 243k miles. (Currently on the clock 337k miles). My high mark MPG is 27.2 MPG. Something neither a P-pump or a VE pump will do. Now with the Quadzilla giving me full control of the timing and fueling of the VP44. Neither P-pump or VE pump can be electronically controlled and tuned. Since both the pump have limited timing you going to lose MPG's for sure. VE pump usage was ended because the pump couldn't produce enough fuel volume. This why the P-pump replaced it.

It would help if you list out your truck information in your signature. I'm going to assume your stock truck. Here is the download area of Quadzilla Tunes https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/22-quadzilla-standard-tunes/

Should be for light duty and short trips. Just watch your coolant temperatures and coolant level closely.

Stock pickup is too restrictive.

The little steel flap/valve. Not the rubber. Typically head gaskets go because of lack of coolant flushing.

Still cut that vacuum breaker flap. This will ensure you don't leak more when engine temps comes up. Radiator caps are cheap, engines are expensive.

Personally I wouldn't. Ive got to ask is it coolant that is leaking? If so cut the vacuum breaker off the radiator cap so the cooling system cant build pressure. This is kind of a red neck way but it should buy you that time.

Both radio and mirrors have the ground in the cab at the drivers side kick panel. I know both have fuses in the cab but also the is a master fuse in the PDC under the hood. Ive seen fuses crack and not blow out.

No. You need a single relay for each bulb. There is no way around that. I've tried when I had sport headlights.

Personally, Don't Do It... LED headlights will blind everyone. Beam pattern is typically really poor with LED's. If you want brighter lights you'll have to look towards the HID's. LED's have got a bad reputation for poor beam pattern and blinding people. I've seen a huge increase of people buying cheap LED headlight I end up high beam most of them because of the crappy beam pattern. Typical 55/60W halogens are safe and won't blind anyone. You'll need a relay kit. Now this is a quality headlight. Crisp cut off line and steps down on the on coming side of the highway. You not going to get this quality with a LED headlight period.

Actually APPS voltage starts out about 0.5xx typically and goes up.

@W-T You've got a following... You might edit your article with the steps on how to do this...

Yeah, there is something wrong with the ECM. Could be software internal issue (solder joint) etc.

I still think its the ECM. You can do that same test with the Key ON and engine OFF. Then you can walk the entire scale and look for issues but the fact the engine RPM is jumping to WOT right away off of IVS switch toggle tells me the ECM is still goofy.

Should be all 1998.5 to 2002...

I'll tell you my personal experience that it's not worth the effort. You'll need 4 relays and 2 fuse. Each low beam will need a relay hooked up to a 85 and 86 terminal. Then each hi beam will need a relay hooked up to a 85 and 86 terminal. Mind you that common in the headlight is +12V not GROUND. The low and high beam legs are GROUND! Then the pin 30 all get a fuse. Then the 87 pin all get the proper bulb position (hi or lo) the bulb common will be to GROUND. This relay setup converts from common +12V to common ground. After I ran this setup for a year I ended up removing the headlights and selling on the classified ads then buying a set of Morimoto HIDs and never looked back. The problem with the sport heradlights is the reflectors have a very narrow path and don't light up much. The secondary bulb is even worse its a very tall but narrow band of light. Main bulbs are OK (meh) but scatter light over a wide area but dim. Then gave up after a year... Then added PIAA Led driving lights... I hate to say it my current setup puts stock sport headlights to shame. (Even with the relay mod)

Article already created. Again "Thank You" @W-T

Score card for me... 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 - 2 track bars in 336k miles. 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 - 0 trackbars in 169k miles. Both trucks are running 235's for tires. It does make a difference.

Would you mind sharing your info for the ECM rebuilder database? Contact @pepsi71ocean about the adding your rebuilder in.

Typically ECM issues stem back from failed alternators. The tin foil was the clue that someone had issues with the alternator and the excessive AC noise wiped out the ECM. As for the throttle issue currently that is still a ECM issue as far as I know of. Need to have a live data tool and watch the TPS signal and see if it goes from 0 to 100% as you watch the voltage. I'm going to bet the voltage hit that 0.8xx mark again and the TPS goes 100%. What is happening is the APPS drop off the IVS (Idle Validation Switch) from IDLE mode to THROTTLING and the ECM only sees 100% throttle. Soon as you drop back to IDLE IVS the ECM drops the APPS sensor and uses only ECM software. Since you shown the voltage is not out of hand that means there is a ECM internal issue so far. Warranty work...

First thing... Go do the alternator AC noise testing... Also get rid of that tinfoil. Before Testing - IMPORTANT PLEASE DO NOT SKIP! Before doing any testing of the alternator for AC noise, make sure to remove any and all wiring modifications. Return the electrical system back to stock. Make sure there is no extra grounds, relocation of ground wires or noise filters installed before testing the alternator. It has been brought to my attention that wiring mods can and will provide false passing grades for the alternator. The entire electrical system should be left stock and unmodified so you (the owner) are alerted sooner to impending alternator failure. Stock system will show AC noise issues much sooner than modified system which will mask the issue and then typically cause damage to ECM, PCM or VP44 sooner.

Most go for in the basket draw straw.

Thicker fuel will seal out the air leak. As the fuel warms up gets thinner it will leak air. Try a trick. Pull that suction fitting on the sender and get some thick grease and grease the pickup tube fitting. Now snap it back together. Now pack a bit more grease in the groove on the fitting. If the problem goes away you've found your air leak. This is only a temporary fix it will return. This means you end up changing to a full draw straw and JIC fittings. Rather common issue...