Mopar1973Man

Dang... I'll go kick rocks.

@Chris O. is the site guru of the CCD network. Might ask him about some of the stuff.

Might be true. Again another good reason to talk to Chris O and see if he can help out there.

The whole point is fine a condition we all can agree on and then we can say it either passing or failing. Originally, I was saying 0.1 was a fail but some vehicles were having issues as low as 0.05 ac volts. So this became a grey area between 0.05 and 0.1 idle AC volts. The reason why I made the mark so high because manuals tend to handle noise better because of the lack of computer control (transmission). It was only after it made the 0.1 that my cruise control would weird out and surge randomly. Now the automatic truck would have the TQ converter lock issues as low as 0.05 volts AC. Hence why this grey zone exists and difficult to draw an exact line in the sand this is a failure point.

Untrue. I've got a handy little tool here created by @Chris O. that can access the CCD network. It can diagnose ABS, AirBag, Central Timer, Etc. all through the OBDII port.

Pump is struggling to pump the cold thick fuel. As the fuel thins out with some heat from the engine then it starts to rise.

Exactly. That why I'm using the everything off method. Like my headlights only draw 5 amps (70 watt load) compared to a stock truck with normal halogen lights draws 7.8 amp (110 watts). I know most load testers report the AC noise (ripple) under full load and typically it will be 1.0 to about 1.2 AC Volts. Since no one can really test at absolute full load and get a measurement in makes it impossible to get a fail marker that we all can agree on. So I use the everything off method and see what the static idle AC noise is. Most part stores hand-held testers use this method too and will fail or pass at idle no load too.

If you can trigger the Check Gage light on the dash the central timer will chime automatically. Sound is easy if you can trigger the Check Gage light on the cluster.

Would be really cool if the warning would sound the Check Gage light and chime. Wishful thinking but I know it will never happen...

Could you fill in your signature with your modifications and year and model of truck? What's your fuel pressure like during this stalling moment? What kind of boost pressure are you seeing? How many miles are on your injectors?

On the PacBrake there is a pressure regulator that you have to adjust. Like on my buddy truck it has a 60 sticker right on it. There is a port before the exhaust brake which you plumb into with a drive pressure gauge and adjust the back pressure to 60 PSI (or a little less.) Might detect a small metallic tick when the pressure is too high. Buddy way randomly guessing the correct pressure.

@Me78569 or @Quadzilla Power would know the answer to that question.

Can't do that. Trips the CEL light and P0380 and P0382 codes. The trigger lines must be left alone and hooked up. If there is a short or break in those wires these codes and CEL typically come with it. The only solution is to pull the main power lead... Being the OP is in California he can't have a CEL on. It will fail Smog checks.

Could be either a Denso or Bosch. Denso are easy to replace. Bosch you have to do solder work to install new diodes. Nothing they are built with the same diodes just that most could have use diodes that still pass but fail shortly afterwards. Make you think my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 has a 22 year old Denso alternator and never failed yet with 170k miles. Now my 2002 Dodge Ram lasted 10 years then alternators continued to fail within 4 months to a year. Now I'm testing and I bet the grid heater are the cause. Just unhook the power lead from the battery so you don't trip CEL.

Stock 24V comes with 60 pound springs.

I was traveling south for MoparMom's dialysis run and ran through New Meadows, ID at -20*F this morning. @Marcus2000monster we are for sure neighbors when it comes to the winter cold. We feel the same nasty bone-chilling cold here.

Lot of hardware there.

Here is the EV2 to compare...

I can tell you this much so far there is nothing wrong with the part store alternators. That past with good 30mV AC typically. What I'm finding is the loads are causing the diodes to over heat and fail. Now this being said the only load that is capable of doing this is the grid heaters. I'm currently studying for a solution that is permanent and resolve this once and for all. Just so you know I've got replacement diodes on hand here on the site.

Yes. Only the 12V engines had 40 pound valve springs and had to be upgraded.

Oh come on you wanted all the bells and whistles. Actually I wanted to find a way to hook up the relay to the check gage light and chime. Crazy idea...

Recheck but it should be GPH not GPM. I'm pretty sure its gallons per hour not minute. Our fire pumps are rated for gallons per minute and most pumps discharge on 1.5 or 2.5 inch lines.

Actually need to reduce the load on the diodes what we are figuring out. Why is it that trucks like my own make 10 years or more without an alternator issue then can't hold an alternator for more than a 4 month to a year and bam the alternator is back out again? So I'm testing now by ditching the grid heaters for now and see if the problem is gone. If so then I'm going to look into replacing my grid heater and solenoids I think that grid heater draw more current as they age. (Theory...)

Your taste... That's all. Most people don't know what the differences are between the EV's and EV2's. Everyone just assumes there both gauges which is true but the EV2's come with much more but none of the vendors tend to advertise the USB programming, USB cable or the Relay kits so people just walk away from the gauge because of the high price not knowing what they are capable of doing.

Reason, why they are cheaper, is because the EV's are not programmable. Take a peek at the programming you can do. Then there is a optional programmable relay you can stack on the gauge. For example you want to turn on aux fan for the transmission cooler using your transmission temperature. No problem program the gauge and it will do the work for you. Like myself I've programmed the warning light for my set limits so the fuel pressure comes on at 13 PSI and lower. Then you can calibrate the brightness of the illumination of the gauge to your dash in the programming.