Mopar1973Man

Very true... Did you also know there is GL-1 through GL-6 which Gl-1 to GL-3 and GL-6 is obsolete now. But the rating is still held. As torque and power increase with vehicles most transmissions are now using GL-4 or GL-5 lubricants. Like The GetRag transmission was in the early years of the Dodge Cummins trucks. As for the G56 actually that was DC way of cutting corners and saving some money by not having to stock a special gear lubricant for the G56 transmission. (At least what I understand).

Kind of like ATF+4 the specified fluid for the G56 transmission but so many people believe the specified fluid isn't making the grade. Just like going back in history with the Getrag 5 speed transmission running on 10w-30 engine oil (IIRC). Not even in the GL range at all. So I tend to watch specs and specification not exactly have to follow them. Kind of like, here is one 308k miles on the clock I've never ran ATF+4 in my transfer case. Yes I know the transfer case is specified to have ATF+4. I've always filled it with ATF+3 or Dexrtron. No harm or damage has occured to my transfer case from using an out of spec fluid. Kind of like another group using tractor transmission fluid in 47RE transmissions again some have had good results. So we can go on and on about specs... Doesn't mean the end of the world or your transmission. At least I'm using a Synthetic Transmission Lubricant, close to the same viscosity at the operational temperature a bit thicker in the cold but synthetics always flowed better in the cold. At least the fluid I have currently is GL-4 rated. The two weakness on the NV4500 was the gear teeth getting hot and popping and the carbon fiber syncros. Being the GL-4 covers the carbon fiber syncros and the viscosity is plenty thick shouldn't have much issues. Daily driver and towing...

When I first started this a year ago the page was different and did state it was a GL-1 to GL-4 fluid. Then over the months that past that page is no longer in existance the data page is gone now. So I know the site page and data has been changed that why I'm willing to battle this being I remember seeing that Mobil was, in fact, a GL-4 product when I purchased it during the transmission rebuild. Being my warranty is up back in February I've not seen any signs of any transmission problems. So between when I purchased the oil and now the page data and URL have changed. Why? I got no idea... So far I'm very pleased. There is zero color change in the last check of the fluid. I will admit the amount over filled I'm running is pushing some fluid out the vent very minor amount. Still got to get the truck tilted quite a ways to keep from pouring out the fill hole. Every time I've checked the fluid color it still looks bucket fresh yet no color difference. I'm just under 50k miles. Still laying down 250 to 270 miles every other day and still handshaking that stick with no problems. Oh I've found several other folks that have been using same fluid in there NV4500, NV5600 and G56 transmissions. I've not hear of any issues as of yet.

Also look at the sway bar link the stud is bent at a 45-degree angle. Axle angle is wrong most likely because of the lift and creating new geometry on the axle because if the geometry was correct that sway bar link wouldn't be bent over at a 45-degree angle. Redneck lift kit. I've seen too many of these and people trash good trucks just to look cool then when it cost too much to fix they sell it.

That because I provided product number and other information off my bucket. Like I learned today no manufacturer can place a API rating on a container unless it actually does meet the API rating. So like they explained to me what I see on the bucket label with the MT-1 and GL-4 it does MEET the API standard. May not exceed the standard but does have to meet the requirement for the GL-4 or any API rating to be placed on the label. So this is not a misprint in my photo Mobil does meet the GL-4 API standard. https://mopar1973man.com/storage/attachments/monthly_2017_07/DSCF4231.JPG.01d0fc29c90050aeb4ea931dd75678a4.JPG

I'm back... I've done my own phone calls on the subject to Mobil... Truth, Mobil states product 103158 Mobil Synthetic Transmission Fluid 50 has API rating GL-4. They cannot mark a container with a specification that it does not meet because of legal issues and/or warranty issues. After discussing this matter with the tech I will have an email by later this evening stating that the product 103158 that I'm currently using is indeed carrying the API standard of GL-4. Yes, it's also MT-1 but meets both GL-4 and MT-1 API standards.

Wow... All i can say is Wow!

I never suggest stretching the spring way too hard to hit the mark. I highly suggest replacing the spring and check ball. Then if you need adjusting the pressure then use washers for shims on the spring.

Should be able to trade covers. Just double check for bolt pattern and the shift forks layout the same.

Try Mouser for those RAM chips

From the 18th to 21st. Yes. But if you show up early I don't travel that section of road I'm close... I'm running back and forth on US95.

Wont see you in my travels but you know my cell so you can ring me.

Might have a RV spot either in Ontario or Parma just depends. Might just drive down from the house and skip the RV. Still not sure with all the dialysis running.

Alternator is the csuse of the surge. Sad to say mine just gave up today and starting surging randomly so im off to replace an alternator myself.

Need to get the thermostat in. Helps a bunch on getting the smoke to clean up with good cylinder temperatures.

Ok. So it's 0*C but 32*F is zero for the sensor. Just replace the probe...

If you unplug the probe it should read zero. So just replace the probe.

I just bump the start crack the supply line to the VP44 ensure there is fuel to the VP44. Then run 3 starter bumps because the AirDog 150 will push fuel through the entire VP44 pump by 3 bumps. That only leaves pumping the air from the lines. Like I said typically mine will start on its own in 15 seconds without cracking a line. Like here soon I'll be changing injectors again and it will be the same thing just start it up.

None... I don't have crack any line. Mine will typically fire up after about 15 seconds of cranking. 1,3,4 is typical. If the grid heater was in the road it would be 1,2,3 because the firing order is 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4 as you see its every other line in the firing order. Since the grid heater is in the way everyone uses 1,3,4

Personally I would get a o-ring set and try that first. Typically I get them for $12 buck from NAPA takes maybe a full hour to pull all the o-rings out and recharge the system. Not hard at all. You also need the release tool from NAPA they are plastic collar set that you pull into the spring locks to release the lines. Typically a bit of twisting motion and they slide out. Video is set for the process of release and installing of the lines. Take notice I did it single handed...

Like with my Quadzilla I run slightly higher (71%) volumetric efficiency percentage from stock (63%). The volumetric setting calibrates your fuel consumption rate. Then I've got my ABS reprogrammed with @Chris O. CCD tool. But there is an offset setting in the vehicle editor setting for speedometer offset. This will calibrate your speed and distance. http://www.obdlink.com/

Grab a vacuum pump and manifold gauge set pull a slight vacuum on the system SLOWLY. Once you have about 5inHg vacuum your safe to open up without the risk of explosion. Ask me how I know??? Might not want to do that... So far I've taken mine to 3 different shop chasing my leak. No one could find it. I finally found mine being the front compressor seal failed and was slinging the UV dye before I could spot it. Now I've been leak free for 4 or 5 years now. Still ICE cold. (35-38* vent temps). I'm more than happy to guide you through this process. Personal note... I've got 2 A/C jobs to do in Riggins, ID by next Wednesday. I'm completely setup as a mobile service and been known to way into the back country and even rebuild an entire system on a 7.3 Ford diesel.

Heck you can get on the OBDLink LX or MX dongles and log it on your tablet or phone. The OBDLink App was just updated to include tire offset so you can get correct mileage records.

Opps... Wrong user I've been testing site functions...

Typically UV dye and black light with turn up an answer. As for doing a o-ring kit typically its about $8 to $12 bucks for a o-ring rebuild. There is 2 pressure sensors low pressure on the accumulator and the high pressure on the discharge line near the compressor. All A/C system work I do, I will do a vacuum test before recharging. Any A/C system that has ZERO pressure I will not recharge till I remove the compressor, drain the oil, add the proper amount and the holds on a vacuum test. If it will not hold a vacuum I will go back to hunting o-rings or condenser possibly. I've changed 2 this year now that was damaged by a flying rock and the other from a minor accident that the plastic grill hit it.