Mopar1973Man

Ummm... The best I can say is stop by a part store and ohm out some new sensors. Fronts are like 1k ohms if I remember right.

Just keep in mind that most MPG mode travel will float in the 1,500 timing bracket. (55-65 MPH). As for the 2,000 bracket that above 70 MPH and MPG numbers start to sink no matter what. So I look at it this way create a good starting point for the 1,500 bracket and then build the rest of the timing map for performance. Then use the cruise timing to for your MPG timing at cruise state. So true as my starting of this I come to find out both my injectors and injection pump was marginal at best and failing shortly after starting into the tuning. No, my failure was not caused from the Quadzilla just to be clear about that.

Not even a concern to me. As long as... You never modify the electrical system, adding grounds, APPS sensor mods, noise filter mods, etc. Test for AC noise during your oil change would be a good time and you deal with the noise issue promptly. I'm going to clear 300k miles on the OEM PCM and ECM. This is only my second VP44. I did lose a ABS module to a bad alternator. So I'm going to keep on truckin' and not worry about it.

Like @dripley points out 5th may shorten up the trailer but 5th do become quite a bit taller and have a larger frontal area and drag. Where bumper pulls are short of the storage but have a lower profile but do become longer.

Have you bothered to change any of the speed sensors? Have you ohm tested the sensor circuits to be sure there is no broken wires? Have you check the ohm value of the sensors to see if there is a issues? Pull the sensors and check for metal shaving pile up on the tips.

Here is April's fuel logs. So now everyone knows I've changed injectors and had the VP44 injection pump fail at 243k miles then wheel bearing issues. Now you can see a noted improvement for the end of the month. April 21st was towing the RV hence the lower numbers. The April 17th was the time the VP44 started failing which it failed in full advancement of timing.

Then there are some folks that spend an ungodly amount of money on modifications and no real power gain was produced. On our 2nd gen 24V engine the stock intake air horn and exhaust manifold are good for at least a 450-500 HP. Then the gain from aftermarket is very small at best. So now looking at cost vs. gain intake and exhaust manifold are one of the highest price vs amount gained. Now if the truck is a quarter mile truck or dyno queen then you need to do everything you can to gain every scrap of power. Daily driver there is going to be next to nothing gained because rarely do you run wide open throttle for long periods of time.

Remove the box all together and see if the problem goes away. Ummm... No. The error code will remain for 40 warm-up cycles. The ECM and PCM have to complete 40 warm up cycles before they will delete any codes. A warm up cycle is starting with a engine temp below 140*F and warming up past 160*F without tripping the code again for 40 times.

@jlbayes happen to be one of our HP/TQ gurus here. He's worth listening too.

Still in all the reading and looking there is no reason for the cause of the derailment.

Like @jlbayes would say best to stick with stock exhaust manifolds.

Two plugs by the valve cover. Then the plug in the PDC that is bolted down.

Which version of ABS, rear wheel or 4 wheel ABS?

I've moved your post here so people would see it. As for your issue. You need to change the cam and gear case to fix the issue. What is happening is the cam gear has the wrong tone ring and the cam sensor will be in the wrong location when you change the cam. So most just change out the cam for the 2002 cam and then while the cam is out change the gear case.

This is not a APPS problem too many look at the APPS first. I would start with AC noise testing from the alternator. Check for any error codes present on either computer. Is there any modification to the electrical system added grounds or noise filters? I highly suggest that all electrical is returned back to stock and any noise filters and extra grounds removed that are not factory.

I would avoid using a toy hauler for storage. That will get very old after awhile being limited but all the stuff piled up. Generator will get really old to listening to it run. No matter how good of a generator you have on board it will get old listening to the droning engine under the floor. This is why I went to solar and inverter that way I don't listen to the noise nor have to keep feeding it expensive fuel to have power. Like @LiDaR lives in a 31' Airstream Trailer and which she has customized to fit her needs. Still, in all, she has a storage unit because there is only so much you can cram in an RV and eventually you start moving things out because you'll get tired of tripping over stuff. I've lived out of a Class C Dodge Jamboree motorhome (20 foot) for a few years. You'll find out there will always be too much stuff crammed in the RV and be looking to either sell it or put it in storage because space is limited. At first, you find you can get everything to fit inside but then you start learning that every time your looking for something you end up pulling a bunch of stuff out to find the thing/object you're looking for. The only thing I can suggest is downsize and sell you excess stuff and/or find a storage unit. I highly suggest that you don't attempt to get a RV for storage reasons and living quarters you will not be happy. Best suggestion is to buy a second enclosed utility trailer for storage. This way you can store your stuff on your property in another trailer.

No reason to clean the IAT or MAP sensor. It's an internet Myth. Being I created the IAT fooler for MPG's and proved time and time again that IAT temperature of 100-140*F is optimal. Cold air degrades MPG performance. Cleaning the sensor will not change the reported temperature nor fix any error codes. To check IAT performance just plug in a live data tool verify the temperatures report by IAT and ECT are the same at first key on in the morning.

Absolutely... Way too much focus on the toys, glitz, etc. Floor plan, cooking/prep space, bathroom layout, bedroom layout are important. Won't do you any good to have a tiny bathroom you keep bumping elbows or your head attempted to bathe yourself. You won't survive long if you have a bed that is too small to sleep in or uncomfortable. Get's rather maddening if you don't have good amount of room for cooking and prepping for cooking. So like when I did my walk through I actually laid in the beds. Found out the jack-knife sofa fits MoparMom just fine and the Queen bed is fine for me. The Jack-knife sofa I can lay on but I'm stuffed wall to wall to fit kind of uncomfortable. The tub/shower is plenty large enough for me to bend over wash my lower body without hitting anything. There is space for cooking and prep work but you have to plan it out and keep thing cleaned up. So it depends on your usage of the RV. Like mine is truely recreational use vs living full time which will change the floorplan requirements some. https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/103-2000-jayco-eagle-296-fbs/

Personal I like bumper pulls over 5th wheels. Like my photo above I couldn't haul my ATV along with me if I had a 5th wheel. No, I don't want a toy hauler either. The thing about toy hauler is you end up with the fuel smell and dirt/mud from your toys in the trailer. So in my case the ATV loads in the bed of the truck and now hitch up the trailer. The RV remains a living quarters and I still keep the bed of the truck for haulng more cargo and no a 5th wheel plate. Also bumper pulls only put about 12-15% of the trailer weight on the truck. Where 5th wheel places about 25% of the trailer weight on the truck. So for example my 8,000 pound RV is about 1200 pounds of tongue weight vs a 5th weight design 2000 or more. I'm the same way the canopy be comes extra storage if need be. But with a 5th wheel that storage is lost.

Most likely right...

15 dollar apps sensor is risky. Most likely going have issues fairly quick. Basically the CCD network has issues. Shorted to ground, shorted to 5V or 12V which you can test for using the wiring diagrams and a DVM. You can isolate the CCD network by unplugging all the other modules.

Might have... But... We found what we were looking for... As for @LiDaR posted picture it refers back to this...

Yon need to bring it out to the camp out in August so I get a least a ride in your beast...

Kind of similar but long ways away... I'm 31 foot long.

First read over the article understand the issue. This is your PCM causing issues on the CCD Network. If the CCD network fails then the communication between all the computers fail. So PCM and ECM can't talk to each other. Being the PCM is the primary computer and the ECM is secondary it's very important to get the PCM working again. I wouldn't of wasting the money on the APPS sensor it's not the cause.