Mopar1973Man

I've got lucky and found a wonderful woman. We've met about a month ago on a dating site. What is so fascinating about this get together is that I did something most don't ever do on a dating site. I listed all the thing I wanted and didn't want in a woman. Which filtered off a lot of people because of my requirements. Then comes Donna that fits my requirements completely. She had to find out more about me. The first date was to meet in Riggins, Idaho and she enjoyed the first meet. She asked me to come down to her place and have dinner with her. Then next weekend we did a camp out on the Salmon River which we both enjoyed the time together. Then this weekend we did a repeat of the same camp out because of the first one was so fun. So I can't hide the fact of Donna is becoming part of my life. So I had to share... Donna also registered up here as well as @LiDaR . She is a little green about web forums I've got to teach her a few things yet.

You need to see what happens when it dies. You might look at the idea of using a Live Data tool like OBDLink and reviewing the data logs when it does die. Some vehicle may have fuel pressure as a sensor and most don't.

I would be hooking up a test fuel pressure gauge and route it to the windshield and watch the fuel pressure and see if it drops out. I know that if the rail pressure on fuel injection gets too low it will die out. It could be the fuel pump can't keep up with highway loads and dies out.

Like I've got the 31 foot Jayco and I love the extra heavy duty frame. There is way less flexing of the body this way. 50 gallons of fresh water, 2 gray holding tanks, and 1 black tank. Two 30 pound propane bottles. Now with the solar power and the 1,200w inverter, I can boondock anywhere now. For two people they can live very well in mt 31 foot RV plenty or water for weekend getaways and enough storage to eat like a king for a weekend. As for mine I used it a few time for job site work and it's not bad. Vey roomy for 2 people to stay in and plenty of room to stretch out. Kind of like this weekend for me I kind of escaped for a period of time on the Salmon River in Riggins, ID. I just got home today.

IAT and Battery temp are the two sensors that control grid heaters. The only tool I know of that reads Battery Temp is @Chris O. CCD tool I know @Me78569 has his and could validate the battery temp sensor for you.

Sorry this is the Big Salmon River outside of Riggins, ID. I'm even lucky enough to have cell service yet.

If the field armature happens to have a bit of magnetism it might still produce AC ripple. This way pulling the alternator fuse you completely isolate the alternator from the circuit.

Typically I get people to unplug the alternator field lead and remove the alternator fuse. This just make sure the alternator is not producing any power or has any connection to the batteries. It also could be the output speed sensor too acting up.

Mom had the same system in her old Chevy S10 pickup years ago. Many times that vacuum line dropped off and the front axle never locked. Like my old 94 Check pickup (Fire truck) was an electric locking and I've had the solenoid burnout on a fire call and got me stuck in the snow. 2WD LO I never needed such a thing. Even with all the trailer work I do I've never need a 2WD LO. As for the CAD system. I'm going to leave it alone being this is my fail back truck that has it. I've already rebuilt the entire setup and I know it works for now.

Extra spinning parts... LOL. At least they work 1005 of the time where my 1996 Dodge with CAD without constant axle has left me stuck because of engagement issues. Just like @MUDDY trying to convince me of doing the conversion on my truck during the bearing change out. Yeah, so you got manual hubs, standard cone bearings, etc. Still in all, I don't want the headache of manually locking hubs and messing with packing bearings. 150k-180k miles on a set of bearings is not bad. That is one job I hate doing on the RV breaking down the axles one at a time using an entire can of grease on repacking all 8 bearings.

So what? At least my 4WD works all the time on the 2002 where the 1996 might not work when you really need it.

Most likely the vacuum lines for the CAD unit. Next would be the CAD unit itself needs rebuilding. The vacuum motor can get leaks or the shift fork shoes might be worn out. I'm glad I don't have a CAD unit on the 2002. The 1996 with the CAD has left me stuck a few times because the CAD unit didn't lock in like it should.

I think the app freeze problem could be memory limit issues. Older devices and/or cheap devices tend to have less operational memory.

1. 100,000 lines. About 4 hours of logs. Not sure of the file size. 2. Oldest information is pushed off the end. 3. Ignition ON starts the logging. It's always running as long as the ignition is on.

Not exactly something I'd be proud of doing.

I've got an local gent that runs out at 1/2 tank but only put 17 gallons in the tank so this is a pickup problem not a sender.

Nice looking paint job... Suggestion for you... Being your truck looks exceptionally great now you better look into securing your vehicle with a good alarm and/or defeat switch to prevent starting of the truck. Ask @TFaoro he got targetted as well for having a pretty truck.

If you ask Dynamic he'll say to place the sensor in the pan not the hot line of the cooler.

I will say the bearing snap rings take very small tips. The eyelets are very small.

I know the feeling. I'm in middle of nowhere Idaho no one up here has the parts I'm looking for and usually days away waiting for UPS truck to show up.

Morning check would be more optimal.

Nice idea... Then I would take that mount it to the fender or firewall use slightly heavier gauge wire then omit the fusible links in the stock setup.

Most believe its base on IAT temperature which is partial true the other half of the temperature comes from the battery temperature sensor under the driver side battery. With my IAT fooler on and showing 143*F I should not get any grid heater and with ECT at 190-200*F. Still in all the grid heater will still fire post starting this is because the battery temperature is below 60*F and will be used in part of the calculation.

Check both the IAT and ECT temperature at first key on in the morning to see if they match. If so the two sensors are still good. Then watch the sensors as you drive. ECT should be normally 190-200*F and IAT will be roughly +40*F over outside air temperature at full engine temperature of 190-200*F.