Mopar1973Man

Ok my notes on tuning... So today I ran level 0 and watched total timing off cruise. Took note roughly of the 1500, 2000, and 2500 numbers. Changed fuel load timing to 0. Change cruise timing to 6. Now my max timing mirror stock almost perfect. So now my cruise timing is roughly 2 over the stock. Cancel boost pressure is set lower at 10 to kick out of the steep timing and drop to stocking timing. I'll update my XLSX file tonight with my settings. What I learned from @Me78569 about how the Quadzilla handles timing and displays timing I might get this figured out yet. Basically build the timing Maxs to mirror stock then use cruise timing only on light loads. So this is way low kick out on boost. Being Quadzilla can't tell throttle while in cruise control really weird limitation but going to figure out a way to get it yet. @me78569 I've got Data log to send you to look at tonight. Side note I'll be sending my OBDLink dongle for Warranty work with a bug in the Bluetooth firmware.

Point of reference. I know I'm wandering all over the timing map. 1500 - 19 2000 - 20 2500 - 21 That above is stock timing. I did figure it the flip flop. That is stopped. I'll post more tonight.

I'm going to bet the coolant change was a difference of pop pressure of the newer injectors. The RV275 most likely where getting low pop pressure and mismatched in flow rates.

@Carbur8tr is it only when the engine is fully warmed up? What timing are you seeing total?

Speed signal is generated by the ABS unit as far as I know. There is a second speed sensor in the transmission for shift parameters. As for the ECM I'm not sure. I can say for sure the data is piped over the CCD Network. I know for a fact if you unplug your ABS module there is no speed signal at all. You could try a test without that module.

Kwel... Now I've got some specs to work from. I might work with the idea of cruise timing some more and see what I can figure out.

That should work good for data logging my long trips (approximately 4 hours one direction every other day). @crf450ish is also having the same problem of tiny menu icon. This menu icon being so darn small and hard to hit makes entering the menu while rolling very dangerous at any road speed. You end up getting frustrated and dropping the phone because you can no longer hold your lane while fighting the menu to capture data. There should be a second icon on the main screen that is pre-configured for exporting logs with a single click. This way you never have to fight a menu, select logging, select the export type, etc. Should be one button press. I drive 8 hours every other day for a total of 362 miles every other day or roughly 4,000 miles a month. I'm not like 90% of the folks here that live in a city where they can just pull over curb side and do this. I travel lots of 2 lane highway most don't even have much of shoulder to pull over so you stuck waiting till you get to the next town 20-30 miles away.

So do I... I struggle hard to reach even 1,100*F EGT now. My typical EGT range is 500-700*F so very rare to look up and see higher temps. The only way I can test it is to hitch up and tow the RV. Be awhile till that thawed out enough to towing the RV still buried in the ice and snow.

I wasn't figuring that was torque converter lockup per say. Maybe the AC noise is disturbing a sensor for the engine function and creating the shutter issue? Now re-reading the post again and thinking possibly is the clutch in the torque converter getting tired and slipping only in 4th gear while towing?

The only defuel setting I use is the EGT. The boost I don't use at all. Warm up mode I set for 165*F. High idle I don't use either. Take your finger drag the screen to the left or right.

The only way I can capture logs safely is to recreate the same results in a non-highway road where I can stop and capture the data. I can do screenshots of the Quadzilla easy because I've got it rigged on the phone for screen capture and it saves directly to the phone. As for data logging being the 5 minute limit and the menu function it too dangerous to do at highway speeds. I've already sent an email to Quadzilla about the previous ideas but no idea if it's in a list, considered, or even read? Attempted another run to capture in flight. Ended up dropping the phone and focusing on driving because there is no where to safely pull off the road to capture soon enough not to miss the 5 minute window. It would be a little different if I lived in a city where I could take a back road and play on. Here the only road is the highway all other roads are city streets (15-25 MPH typical speed limit).

As you see it there hovering at about 5% to 10%. There is several canyon stretches where there is just enough downgrade. Speed isn't the issue, the engine load and timing. I'm capture reproducing at just about any speed as long as I can get the engine load low. I've watched this flip flop happen many times on shallow downhill runs with light throttle. More or less throttle was held at 10% through most of this. Again I'd capture on the road in real conditions just too dangerous to attempt driving a winding canyon road, that is icy and slick and messing with a cellphone with a bad menu icon and tempting to capture data quickly before 5 minutes runs out. Till this is resolved I really can't data log some of the weird things I see. If the app had a capture button pre-configured for your export I would just reach down and tap it when then thing occur.

Here is a captured log I had to find a spot to get it to happen while I had a chance to stop and access the log features. VERY DANGEROUS to attempt at highway speeds. Way too many screens and looking down to capture. Now if you look I'm at low engine load it should be staying hi in the timing but drops several times. Low boost as you can see.

Well if you want data logs you going to have to correct that menu button so I can reach the menu on the fly being I can't just stop on a interstate to do logging nor can I stop in the middle of a two lane road to do logging. I'm still travelling roads with no pullouts so till that menu button is fixed I can't do much being that I might have to drive 15-30 minutes away to a pull out or off ramp by then the little tiny 5 minute log is long gone that I wanted. Till then you'll have to consider what I'm say... I have no other choice... They still look like this right now. Just better weather, high berms. Other than that I give you lots of deceleration logs to pullouts which are meaningless... I was thinking of the controlling of timing during cruise state. Not cancel per say. As load goes up the timing should be retarding to allow the engine to build boost. So cruise is set say 65 MPH hit a small hill load rises timing should fall. Right now the timing either holds or possibly advances.

Boost elbows tend to have a bleed hole in them. Normally we test using a regulated air pressure and leave it hooked up and spray soapy water around all the fittings, intercooler, MAP and IAT sensors looking for leaks, don't forget the intake cover plate and grid heaters too.

I know @Me78569 you mentioned something about that odd flip-flopping of timing at low loads. I figured it out you're pulling the timing too far retarded and the ECM is fighting to advance the timing. I watch a normal timing on Level ZERO for awhile at low load the timing is supposed to advance and under heavy engine loads, the timing is supposed to retard. Which some of the programmings is backward like "Fuel load Timing" that is backward too. With the high engine load should give the least amount of timing advancement aiding spooling and then as load reduces then the timing start advancing again. The cruise timing has the same weird bug too where the flip-flop starts because the Quadzilla will pull down to 11-13* and then the ECM is pushing for 19-21 at loads below 15% and then the flip-flop starts. Go to level 0 and the ECM does like its suppose to kick the timing high at low loads and loads increase the timing retards. I know this a bit old of a pic but gave some clues to what is wrong... Just think of changing the MAP axis to Engine Load. Because boost and engine load tend to follow each other to a certain amount except cruise where boost could be much higher because of engine RPMs. Like for example, I can have 10-12 PSI of boost and 0-10% engine load. Your current design is based on boost which is kicking out the cruise state or holding too long at lower speeds. Where in my example the engine load would keep it in cruise state but now set a limit load wise it would kick out like its suppose too. This why the cruise state should be controlled more by engine load and not boost.

The splitter cord supplied is hi beam on the smaller inner reflector which produces a weird pattern of light that is narrow as well. The lo beam is awesome its on the main reflector and does spread the light great. I'm just half tempted to just pull the splitter cables off for now and just use the main reflector side till I build the relay kit. Here is the OEM setup and not hard to do.

This is what is tracking my fuel log data and my mini-dyno. http://www.obdlink.com/lxbt/

Comes with a full manual for installing the Quadzilla Adrenaline. All the connections are under the hood except for one power wire that goes in the cab. No OBDII connection required for the Quadzilla Adrenaline. I've got my OBDLink in the OBDII port now. I'm going to tweak my tune some more and keep updating my MPG thread as I do. I've also found a few more bugs for @Me78569 to look at and possibly fix. As for tuning once you get it all hooked up we can all work together to help you get what your looking for.

Wow...

AC noise from the alternator? Have you tested for it? That range could be a AC noise issue as well.

I'll take it if you can email it to me...

Typically I hold my foot down on the throttle after changing a filter. Then crank the starter. Yeah it going to rev rather hard but you'll pull the air through the system. I'm not saying red line but we'll in the 2k bracket.

That's one weird squirrel.

Mine aren't pinned wrong it that it's split so only one bulb per side is functional. I need to buy 4 headlight plugs and a few relays to make each side work with 2 bulbs.