Mopar1973Man

Need to change the color of the icon to green or something other than yellow. Yellow tend to pop to mind to being warning message. Where green is just a notification. Danger icon should be in red.

That is so you can remove the valve stem core and be able to hook up the fuel pressure gauge to the test fitting.

Any kind of module rebuilder. On module you could try is Module Masters its right here in Idaho.. https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/ I'm also assuming your talking ECM and not the PCM...

Mostly likely not. Most of the system is shielded away from RF frequency rather well.

Good luck. I've heard the PCM board is filled with that jelly resin stuff. Can't do much with it.

I typically never let mine below half tank because of the distances to the town. As for my old school draw straw without a sump. I've been all over at 1/8 and down to near the Empty line without a issue with Idaho mountain roads. It just must be all in the way I installed my draw straw. No, its not touching the bottom it got the clearance of a quarter (coin).

No. Because I see it on my display too.

Cummins supplies the adapter or even a parts store should have them too.

True...I've got my old 02 sensor because I thought I had a bad one come to find out the stealth plate nut came loose. So I kept the old 02 Sensor and install the 01 sensor and the adapter.

You are the rarity then..

I'm talking about the Cummins MAP sensor. Not your boost gauge. As for mine, I've push well into the 40's a few times now with the Quadzilla. As far as what I done research on more people lose accuracy after about 40-45 PSI.

I don't think it accurate to 62 PSI. The best I've hear is about 40-45 PSI its starts to drift.

Cleaning sensors does nothing... It NEVER fixes any problems. The stock sensor only goes so far any ways. I know it won't make 60 PSI.

Highly suggest against using motor oil or ATF for any kind of fuel additive because of the high ash content. I advise replacing the ATF and motor oil with 2 cycle oil. As for power service that is cetane booster and 2 cycle oil is gets a reducer. So mixing is just neutralizing effect. Highly suggest against mixing products together because of possible negative effects. If you want to keep your system clean use better filters. As for cleaning you injectors you have to full disassemble each one and clean by hand. There is not a product that can clean a injector.

Should of been on you truck...

It's doing good. I'm getting rather good at flying it. I've got a fun game with the dog. He get mad at the drone and barks at it. So I tell him to get it. He'll go out and chase it in the yard. I fly it back to me. Fun way to get practise and the dog gets exercise too.

Android and Linux all the way... Still going with Ubuntu 16.04.1 and training people one at a time in my spare time. As for fluid I broke away from the old 75w-85 Mopar fluid and went to the 50 SAE transmission fluid GL-4 Synthetic.

Holds 1 gallon of 75w-85 GL-4 fluid. Being it's no longer manufactured I'm using 50 SAE transmission fluid GL-4. 12k miles no issues.

Why a live data tool so you can watch rail pressure and fuel pressure gauge so you can watch the supply to the CP3 is good idea. I had one come in that had a bad lift pump still won't run after warming up. Come to find out the #4 connector tube was loose and as the heat expands the head the leak was in the head and was losing rail pressure. Again the live data tool spotted this.

Like I said ask the members here I'm sure someone would be nice enough to help you out. If I lived closer I'd be on your door step to help out. I've done plenty of VP44 swaps. Like my last two job I've had @hex0rz show up at my place to have injectors swapped out and then gone over to Walla Walla, WA to @Taz place to do a clutch for him. So like I said ask around I'm sure someone would help you out.

Nope, the transmission was a G56 on this truck.

All I did was pull the cover clean everything up. Installed my front crank seal. While the cover is off, just retorque the bolts you can get at with the cover off. Clean your mating face up and with ultra gray silicone glue your gear cover back on. As for the KDP I've got the same thing of the updated case. As for odd report I've seen a single reported 2002 Dodge Ram with a KDP repair and seen the actual Dodge Dealer repair bill. Very rare, but there were a few that got in the pile.

Nice to see you back @Rogan Something isn't right. I just done a dual mass to single mass flywheel on a 2006 Dodge and just a standard single disc clutch works very well and no noise at all. All I think of is the added mass of the dual disc clutch is causing the problems.

If you have to, ask around, I'm sure there are other members around you that might be able to help you finish it up.

Time to break out a live data tool and see what your IAT and ECT temperatures are actually doing when this occurs. Most likely the foooler won't resolve it but I'm curious if there a data problem being fed to the ECM creating this issue. Just with winter fronts and running 65 in 40-50*F weather...