Dieselfuture

Yes because axle got shoved towards passenger side pulling steering with it. What I believe is they all screwed up and wanted to make it shorter not longer, possibly same manufacturer with same idea for different outfits. Someone might have thought about how with time trucks sag and told manufacturer to make it 1/4" shorter and they made it a 1/4" longer. Or they thought enough people put leveling kits on and that would help with that if it's longer. But in all reality it should have been same as factory and more than likely it's a defect. Track bar will not affect how tires wear, maybe very little because it's not centered under the truck. But by putting the longer track bar in, it will shove it towards passenger side. By shoving it to one side you're not affecting an alignment of toe-in out, both tires are connected with tie rods whether it's y or t Style, the only way to change that is with a coupler that attaches them. On a side note I will be upgrading to a t Style versus Y in near future, that would eliminate bump steer and uneven wear when going over bumps. I know it's very minimal and most don't know or notice especially when using Pizza cutters but I like the idea of one solid bar keeping my tires straight going down the road. What I did is put a jack under the frame in front with chunk of 4x4 to reach it easier and just lift it up so holes in track bar lineup. But I see your point on side to side, if it got used to over the years sitting certain way someone would have to push on body to center over the axle. I don't think it needs a lot of pressure and the guy could maybe use a ratchet strap somewhere on the frame or even a bumper and hook it to something on the side, then take tape measure or just eyeball axle over the frame evenly on both sides. Once that is done on level ground then you can fit the track bar in to that length, maybe measure hole to hole to get a rough start, but it will take couple of times to get it just right. Don't be scared if steering wheel is going to be off center, chances are previous alignment was done with crooked axle. So make sure axle and frame are lined up then deal with steering wheel.

@dripley it sounds like you may have two problems one related to warped rotors the other to abs, but this is just my speculations. I have witnessed where pulsation/ vibration will come from the rear drums not front rotors.

Your rotors are worped

With time front end sags and frame pushes on track bar which pushes axle to one side and that's what causes faster track bad wear with time. So when you adjust it the idea is to center axle and frame so at normal level condition there is no pressure on track bar only when on uneven ground it will keep axle where it needs to be. In my mind it should of had adjustable bar from factory. No different then doing alignment with adjustable tierods. But you know some ceo had to make more money. I would probably try that adjustable bar for 100 before partstore one, but Hurd to tell quality from pictures. I'm sure once you get it where you want it couple pipe wrenches wold get it tight enough or a good tack weld. Another option is to rebuild yours with https://www.genosgarage.com/product/lukeslink-tbrkit/trackbar-rebuild

Just jump fass relay harness so pump stays on

You can send it in if you don't mind waiting, or you can do it yourself if you have windows 7, anything other then windows 7 gets to be tricky but @Me78569 has a wright up on it here After some fun times I did it myself, at work I still have windows 7 and it's much easier. Good luck, you'll love it .

I see your point there, I'm still in kindergarten

I put mine where the original pulse monitor used to be and got s6 just for the truck works well, ran charging cord inside the pillar and made a small bracket from old licence plate that attaches phone Holder to the pillar.

It wears a nice groove in a ball from sitting and works it's way in to spring, and for whatever reason doesn't work right after. You can probably get away using same spring if you coil the end of it so ball won't get stuck but it's not easy to put ball back in on the opposite side of where the groove is, I've done it to my old air dog but took few tries. They are cheap and they know it causes this problem, they should send you new one. I stretched mine out a bit after mod but do you have to be careful not to do it too much, initially I was close to 20 psi but with time it settled to about 17 cruising

But I love fluoridated toothpaste you kidding, it's liquid candy. NASA fan boys eat it by the case

That's weird cuz I can go to any hardware store where I live and the stupid things are everywhere, all it is is a miniature gate valve.

I have my Quadzilla probe in the manifold to control defueling and monitor in general, and I have my mechanical ss pro gauge in my exhaust brake that is bolted to the backside of the turbo, it came with a port already threaded. Congratulations on the quad

It doesn't matter how old fass is, when I got mine brand new it had same issue they ended up sending me a new ball and spring that fixed the issue. You can try mortifying spring a little bit and see if it helps and if you do get a new one modify it right off the bat. Also if you don't have half inch lines all throughout the system you will have greater PSI swings but it will not be bouncing at steady idle that is caused by ball and spring. Modified end goes towards the ball

Now that you mentioned it I remember when I actually brought that up a while back, but my memory is crap too much fluoride.

@trreed didn't you just sell one lol, never fails.

Too much work man, I just did mine by pressurizing the turbo to about 25ish psi. Is it really bad if it's at .008 .018 on cold engine(was about 90f ambient), I believe that's where I set mine after doing my HG.

Ha ha funny, but in all reality I think in distant or maybe not so distant future I'll get 4th gen and skip the 3rd all together, kinda what I did with pager/blackberry era. The only 3rd gen that I may consider is an 07 g56. Not sure why or when but just thinking out loud.

If this was all done from the impact I would be really worried about a bent crank

Probably just wore out bushing or a mount somewhere

No just your head gasket, these motors go over million ml if taken care of.

Not sure on 12v but here is mine https://mopar1973man.com/topic/12772-head-gasket-leaking-oil/

Like Mike mentioned coolant flushes and another overlooked factor could be newly discovered alternator ground problem, causing electrolysis. Alternator is grounded through the engine and it's mounted next to thermostat housing where a lot of these develop leaks.

Yeah I know we've discussed that before and you might be right, but I've pumped so much grease through them bearings and out the sensor hole, it's as clean as it can get, still have same problem. The only time light stays off is when I clean tone ring with a vacuum and it's really cold out so the grease stays solidified and doesn't feel them gapps.

Look for vacuum leaks or a bad diaphragm in the vacuum actuator for cab, you are correct it's not engaging all the way. I ended up putting a posi lock on mine so I could have 2 wheel drive low for backing up a trailer. Some people put a vacuum switch so they can toggle cad on and off. I like the cable idea better. But ideally I'd love to have manual locking hubs and servicable bearings. I guess my front wheel bearings are kind of serviceable now since I put grease zerks in them but that also caused a problem for ABS light to come on, over greased I believe.

Did you ever figure it out