notlimah

I know he video you’re talking about, pretty sure I saw a reply in the comments from a chick who was there that said they had put a brick on the pedal (yea, seriously) and ‘somehow’ the doors locked and then insert said video.

Glad you got it figured out!

Did you use any tape or thread sealant on those? Possibly any other leaks in the system?

I don’t think it’s a high fail item but it’s always possible for it to fail. Even if it were failing I’m not sure it’d cause the issues you’re experiencing. Sounds like whatever regulates the pressure is the problem.

Yea even with the rats nest removed it’s not a bad idea just to keep random debri from falling into the engine. I did mine on a windy day and was paranoid somethin was gonna fall in lol.

I think I’d agree with you about the injectors. Although it does sound sorta normal at least the way I’m reading it but it’s hard to really tell without seeing it and also, I don’t have a manual, so purely speculating. Sounds like you’re getting smoke when you should get smoke though. Usually smoke will be the most/worst at low rpm/high tps situations.

Great advice here, except don’t forgot to clear the bag of the valve cover when reinstalling and then tighten everything down only to find the bag inside the valve cover. I’ve heard of it happening, not sure from who though....

I use this oil http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/diesel/sae-15w-40-heavy-duty-diesel-and-marine-motor-oil/?code=AMEQT-EA and this filter http://www.filterspro.com/detail.cfm?part=2679568 based on @AH64ID‘s recommendation and has worked great for me.

Air

Can't speak for @AH64ID but I've found it works up to 1-2k lol anything above is a no go.

Speaking strickly from what I've read, the main things needing to be address are the KDP and the 5th gear nut if applicable. Other then that just general wear and tear item that would need replacing on a 20+ year old truck. Tuning from what I understand is as simple as turning a screw one way or another, there's a meme that covers this but I can't find it. Easy enough to mess with tuning is what I'm getting at. Hopefully someone with actual 12v experience can chime in and help you out a bit more.

So from what I understand the Donaldson is synthetic and he Fleetguard is cellulose, at least with the 2 filters I’m running correct?

They hang a good ways down. The angle of those pics don’t really show how far past the fender they are. I mounted it to the recommended frame mounting spot, just made damn sure I got the mount adjusted as high as possible. Here’s a pic from the side for reference with the new, bigger filters.

Pretty sure vin decoder is in the beginning of the FSM downloaded here on the site.

Thanks for saying that much better than I

Well those look fun

Think of it like this. One tune, truck drives terrible, but on a dyno, would put some pretty similar/close numbers compared to another tune, where the truck drives well. The numbers would be similar on the dyno, but the butt dyno would tell a different story in drivability.

Sounds like you get the gist of it lol.

Tuning on the V2 won’t give you more or less HP, it’ll just change the driveability.

My new filter shield to help protect these big old things!

Any worries of fuel leaking in the cab can be alleviated by having your fp gauge in the lowest pod on the pillar and drilling a small hole underneath the pod. You’ll see or smel any leaks before it had time to puddle up and cause more damage.

He linked it for ya in here already!

Yessir, they’re on a FASS titanium.

Your best best is to keep troubleshooting with Goerend. It’s their valve body and their product. I’d give them a chance to set things right. The more you mess with it outside of their advice now, the bigger chance or further complicating things are. Unless @Dynamic has some insight on something, that’d be my advice. ninja edit: yea if you’re in Spokane, give Jon aka @Dynamic a call, he’s in Newman Lake, he’s built mine and several other members transmission and is a pleasure to work with.