notlimah

I doubt it. Currently running what’s in my sig, so absolute max I’d be is 350 but not even sure I’m at that.

Wheels

At the time it was built it was a little higher around 5-550. Now I’ve pretty much settled at 350-400 even though @trreed says otherwise.

?????????? It exists!!!!!

100% agree with the drop/drag. Did I hear you say hood stack or side exit exhaust??

I did not. Jon said it wasn’t neccesary with my power goals. Whats not included in that list is a billet flexplate which I had him install as well for my own piece of mind. As far as any hesitations to drive out there and install and drive home, I didn’t exactly that, over the Cascades to boot and zero issues or worries. @gipperkid Being as close as you are to firepunk is definitely nice being that it’s not cheap to rebuild and being close to the builder adds that piece of mind. Again since I have personal experience with Jon, I wouldn’t hesitate to pull/ship my trans to him if I ever were to do it again.

Here’s what @Dynamic did on mine, which he rates to 550-600hp.

Yea altitude is key. I have same size injectors as @Mopar1973Man and still stock HX and pretty sure I’m starting above 100%

Well **** now I do!!

Just to give a warm and fuzzy, I’m completely stock cam/springs/rods and have seen 3-3200rpm and no issues. I’ll have some smoke on start up here and there but I’m thinking it was mainly from my old stock injectors. Only had a chance to drive the truck a couple weeks since with the new ones installed and the weather was warmer and no smoke ever.

Somewhere!?

As far as transmission upgrades go a modified valve body and triple disc converter are bare minimums IMO. I’m no expert by any means but from all the reasearch I’ve done and talkin with people who know what they’re talking about (@Dynamic and Goerend) that’s pretty much the minimum requirements for stock to a little above stock power levels.

Effin a cotton, sorry to hear man!

Don’t rush or anything

Read through @Me78569‘s write up on the custom tuning and it has good recommendations for timing settings for different situations.

Agreed I have bigger injectors then you and can stand on it up a steep hill unloaded and barely crack 1400 just for a second or two. 900-ish cruising is high as others have pointed out.

Ah ok makes sense. Figured you wouldn’t be installing anything unnecessarily. Mainly asked because you see so many people trying to replace the heat exchangers on the 2nd gens when they’re seeing ‘higher’ temps, even when empty or lighter loads, always blaming the stock cooling system.

I guess in theory yea. Is the tank full right now? Like really full? Could also park nose down hill over night but either way, get fuel to cover the entire basket in the tank. If you’re still having problems then the leak is somewhere further down the line, but outside of the tank. If it solves it then your problem is in the tank and from there you can go with a sump/drawstraw/liberty module or whatevs.

Was this in place of the heat exchanger? Or did they just need that much cooling??

Dropping the tank is only two bolts. If youre worried about sucking air then putting a sump (or any drawstraw or module) just seems like throwin money (and time) at a problem you’re unsure of. I know you’ve tried a ton already, but I’d verify 100% there’s no leaks and tried all other suggestions here before I randomly starting throwing time and money at my truck in hopes of fixing it.

Here’s mine after the 1500 mile break in period with a Goerend pan on it.

According to your log, every other time you had the rv hooked up you recorded better mileage then 13.9, what am I missing?

Stock 47re can barely handle stock power. I’m surprised it hasn’t given you issues yet running the quad.

Thanks, tagging this for later.

For just a bit more you can get some brand new RV275’s spec’d up to 7x.0085’s from Weston at Infinite Performance and IMO that’s about as good as it gets.