dripley

Did you clear the codes and they came back?

OBD linx lx or mx are pretty popular. You would have to google it. Most auto parts stores here rent them, not sure in your location. I just replaced my VP back in November and the MAP went with it.

Did you clear the codes before the VP install and these came up afterwards? What you describe is very much like your MAP sensor has failed.

My 02 did not come wiyh one but Dodge blessed me with one when the oe failed. So yes you could have one.

@Brooks and @Eviltwisted1 you both ought take a look at the post about ground reference for VP, ECM ect. Its in this forum and just posted. Go to page 1. This is WT's original post on the mod. It want fix your 1689 problem but is good for your electricl sytem.

I took the charge wire to the passenger battery and dont remember exactly how it was routed. I then put short cable from the drivers battery to the PDC. Another benefit was reduce ac current off the alternator. Pre mod l was at .035 volts and it dropped post mod to .010 volts.

The pictures are actually on page 1. This is WT's original post. @Mopar1973Man turned it into article that I can never find and it has the pictures also. Just not sure where it is located. With out reading thru it all again the mod was mainly to clean up the length and location of the grounds and clean the crazy splicing in the wiring. Also to get the charge wire out and away from the sensor wires in the loom on the front of block. I dont remeber it being to address anything strange in the PDC. I personally did intstall 1 2/0 + between the batteries when I replaced all my cables with 2/0 about 6 months prior to doing the mod. I also added a #4 - between them after the mod. WT has a rather large electeical load on his truck so the extra cables are of benefit to him but not so for me any way. I know pre mod my batteries would get slightly moist on top on occasions. After the mod they have been dry as a bone. No corrosion on the terminals and I treated them with nothing to prevent it. It was an over site at the time but longer it went without protection and no corrosion the longer I am waiting to see if any corrosion occurs. I have no idea as to why the mod would do this other than pre mod maybe I was over charging a bit.

Electrical gremlins are no fun. Mine were on a mostly stock wiring other than what I have added over the years. If the PO did alot of mods it can make solving problems interesting. The gremlins I went thru would come and go also. I eventually found a bad splice in the 5v sensor reference and fixxed it and did the WT ground and have gremlin free for a couple years.

It improves the grounding on your computers and will lower ac voltage output from the alternator. Mine dropped considerably. It is not a cure all for any one thing just helps improve electrical system in general. I have had no electrical gremlins since doing the mod. I also not the best to explain due my lack of electrical knowledge. I do know it helped.

If you dont believe rolling coal doesn't bring more attention to it, l dont what I can tell you. Just not something we are about around here. The cleaner the burn the happier I am.

Did your volt gauge ever come back up?

Going to tag @Mopar1973Man on this because l cant seem to link anything on this tablet. If you are electrical savy the original WT article explains in depth. The mod helps straighten out some short comings in the original design. One thing we have all learned here is how quirky the electrical system can be. Your problem could esily be electrical and not mechanical. I just dont know, not great with electrical myself. Will the mod solve your problem, maybe not. But it is worth doing. I read your other threads but dont remember you mentioning the 1698 code before. Makes me think your priblem is more electrical.

If congress is involved l would imagine you will have good fuel pressure at the rear wheels.

Good to see your making some progress.

That is strange. The 1693 is not supposed to be there on its own. I cant explain why it is. You could try the key trick which is turn the key on and off, then on and off, then on. Then watch the ododmeter. There is a chance your 01 will read both computers, if it does you will see p done twice. Once after each computer is read. This is not the best method for reading codes even if it does read both.

That switch l believe is on the rod to the master cylinder. If not something that is tied to the clutch pedal. I took mine off 13 years or so ago and dont remeber exactly what it was on, but it is under the dash. If you can find it just jumper the wires and it should start clutch in or out. If it does not it could be the starter. Thats the problem I had back then and thought it was the switch and turned out to be the starter.

I am on my second SMP MAP sensor. The first one lasted about 18 months. It failed while the VP was failing back in November. It was working fine up that moment. Coincidence or not I dont know. I did install another SMP as I have had good luck with there products thru the years.

I agree. So many folks preaching tolerance these days. Yet if you cant see things their way they are pretty much intolerant of you.

I really had to think about what l was typing when l posted this. The world around us aint what it was when l grew up.

The hotter the area is with the virus you could see some packed hospitals. It is not like that everywhere for sure. I dont beleive we are being lied too about it all. Kind of depends on where you are.

There alot of good ones out there. They all have there issues when new. Now the youngest 2nd gen is 19 years old. If they have been kept up with and not abused they can still be good trucks just like any of the other 19 year old trucks. Buying a used vehicle can be a crap shoot. My 02 with 500k is ruuning as good as ever but I have to keep up with it. Of course the Cummins helps.

I guess what messed me up is the male and female thing. Still does. The plug for the trailer fits into the part with the spring loaded door. To me that means the trailer plug is the male in my feeble mind. But I go and look more close and see the female part is hiding the male part. Where's Caitlyn Jenner we need her explain this stuff.

An OBD linx LX or MX seems to be popular around here. One or both will read live data from the engine. You can google it read up on them. That vacuum line actually runs to your vacuum pump. The V44 is a VP44 and is your injection pump, no vacuum line on it. At least if I am reading you right.