pepsi71ocean

You should add this as a write up in general Cummins. I have an article about brake lines I need to add.

The silencer ring?

@Blueox01 I second this information.

That looks really good, I was thinking the same thing, either gunmetal it the aluminum paint of the original.

What about address and shipping information. Do you take credit cards over the phone?

You can get allot on there with air bags. This was about 7,000 lbs here. The D80 in my truck says 11,000lbs but my rear is 3,300 empty. As long as you don't exceed your axle and tire ratings your ok. As long as your level with that load I wouldn't worry to much, the front of my Dodge was about 4,500lbs you'll have pleanty of weight for stopping power

Well your in luck, my dad is a doctor and ten years ago was talking about how in the medical field they were talking about cell phones and cancer and how it was hush hush because the government, anyways I use a Bluetooth, and keep my phone away from my head on extended calls, even if it's on my hip. Irony has it that now they are talking about this, after the corporation's have made their money.

I may run a few tests for S&G. If not I''ll be dropping it this weekend. How best should I go about sending it to you? @Dynamic

Is there any kind of line pressure testing you would like me to do before I drop the valve body for testing use? Also should I ship he solenoids and the other stuff with it as well? Do you also enlarge the GPS chamber that it goes into? I've seen a thread or a write up on that as well.

My sticker was under the hood. But I have a 99 Auto and shes a dully so my trucks turns hard. i think im 2,000rpm at 70mph

Blueish smoke isn't a good sign by any means, I'm unsure where your getting your oil burn from. What is your compression at, and have you done a leak down test yet?

I'm in the process of installing a pacbrake into the truck. I wanted to have you go through this valve body I have, upgrade it the correct way (other then what DTT did). And then give me lock up in all forward gears. (or unless you think 1st is not needed.), I have the a billet GP Solenoid and electronics So I'm unsure if I need to ship them as well. I know that dropping it may require a call so you know what they have installed, and such. I also have a billet flex-plate, input and output shafts, I do believe that the rest of the transmission that DTT built in WA is up to snuff, the concerns I had before were the valve body and the stacked shifting. which is something else I wanted to see what you were thinking after I dropped the pan. I also linked to the other thread I started in your area of the forum, because I believe that this valve body is causing my stalling issues since she stalls 5/10 times in D when cold and 1/10 times in manual 1. I'm unsure but I can rule out the TC on this theory because I believe there's a valve body issue here.

Being that they are so close to stock fuel flow I would say 310-315bar. What do you think @Mopar1973Man? It seems to me that the gain in raising pop pressure is proportional to the side of the fuel injected. the larger the injector the more you can raise the pop pressure.

Did you get my message? I wanted to talk to you about sending my dtt valve body out to you and having you tune it.

I ordered a spring for a fass 150 for my fass 95, then cut the spring to drop the pressure. I hold a solid 18psi regardless of what i do. Conversely, in your case you can call fass and order a higher psi spring,

Looks like we need an article for this now @IBMobile Gonna have to add in tags like P0230 and such and let people complain to fass till they either fix it or what not.

This works, I routinely when washing my truck wash the engine bay, and I always hit my battery terminals and batteries. then I coat them in engine oil, I will unhook them one at a time and coat everything in oil. So far 2 years later they are like new!

For me the rings were along the first foot or two on the passenger side, seemed to start from the top where the battery was. I used liquid electric tape to seal the cable ends up in my new replacement cables.

If they are old its better to start replacing all of them. before you have a future issue. Also Should mention that you can also adjust the amount of hose that is out there by prying back the metal bracket. Butt just enough to not allow it to contact. Make sure you sttill have full range of motion after this.

make sure your cables are good before finishing this. My round cables were failing from age, and had corrosion inside that was staring ti show up on the casing as rings.

there are some holes that need to be drilled. @Dynamic should be able to elaborate on this.

You might as well say that you have hard starting too, pull the relay and she fires right up, after all that's why the the ECM run's 1/2 cycle and even I see 10psi of cranking fuel pressure when cranking.

They all say Mike! Don't be discouraged they cant say yes at work lol

Sadly I believe you are correct. I wonder if this happens with the 3rd gen trucks as well. heck I'm not sure the VP-44 would like to be cranking against 20psi of fuel pressure.

You can have soft hydraulic hoses made up and then mount it on the frame, that's about the best you can do, or delete it completely and replace it with another set of coolers.