IBMobile

I had car from 1984-2006 and drove it over 470,000 mi. In the end the trans leaked like a sieve and the J-type overdrive didn't work when hot, not worth fixing, donated it and did look back. To me a vehicle is nothing more than a tool to go from point A to point B with dependability, safety, some comfort and economy. Once it costs more to fix than what it's worth or the parts become unattainable it's history.

How about disconnecting the cable from the solenoid and sliding a piece of ⁵/₁₆ or ⅜ vacuum hose over it.

I have seen cam timing off a tooth and the engine run great but the exhaust hydrocarbons are very high. I've also seen where an engine has no power and/or runs rough with high exhaust emissions. If the cam timing is off more than 2 teeth and it is an interference head then there is a chance of valve damage.

Yes, they do go bad. They usually first start slipping when you start the engine and over time get worse until the outer pulley comes off. To test; with the timing light note where the timing mark is or make your own mark. Now stop and restart the engine and quickly rev it up idle back down then shut the engine off, do this a few times. Recheck your timing mark. If it moved you have a bad balancer if not then you have other problems like cam timing off. If you need to remove the balancer there is a special tool you'll need to counter hold the crank shaft and O'Reilly will lend it to you for free.

I think SPR is Spicer Life Series® U-Joint with the P9 FG, HN being production code.

So you say there are no codes, fuel system, injection pump, compression and charging system (no A/C noise) are all good along with a new damper installed. May be the timing is to far advanced all the time. This could be caused by a faulty electronic signal to the ECM from the load or temp sensor or the ECM itself or a mechanical problem of the cam/injection pump timing. I had a car act like that. I found that the solenoid for the variable cam timing was sticking and the intake cam timing was always at 22° advanced.

I just got back from camping with the grand kids in the Alabama Hills. I drove over100mi from Thanksgiving dinner at the in-laws' last night back to my trailer and only one person flashed their lights at me. I find running mostly low beams with the driving lights is all I need but the highs really reach out there. I've been using them for 11 years and I just inspected the left blub, connector and housing. They are all in good condition. I don't know how well the after market head light housing would hold up.

My non-sport head lights are plastic. Here's a pic of one after I cleaned it.

Looks like a clean install but I'm sure you were the 'side walk superintendent' on the job with nothing getting past your eagle eye. Looks like you'll get to test it out this weekend with temps in your area forecasted to be between 27°- 46° with a chance of rain turning to snow later in the week.

I like the idea of a toggle switch so you can turn it on when going down the road and not just in reverse. Post some pic of the installation when your done please. I would get the backup camera with the trailer tow kit for the 5er. Why did you get it through Amazon and not Costco?

Check this link out You may all so want to in stall a fluid filter when done.

These two links are not opening on the products for me.

This is great. Warm in the winter and cool in the summer, Mopar Mom will really appreciate it. How efficient is a system like that in your climate? Will you be cutting back on the wood burning too?

I can't think of any short comings. If you think their may be a problem run the tank down to all most empty then fill and add the Opti-Lube.

I think Flosser is the only company that makes the 9104 blub.

If heard of one brand performing a little different than another and of people complaining about the fan staying engaged all the time when new but I've never experienced this.

Stock wires, connectors and housings. No problems.

NO I've never heard of that, should be good to go right out of the box. It could be the aftermarket brand you're getting, try a different supplier.

I put the same blubs in my son's Volvo. They lasted 4 years of college and at least a couple of years at home. They cost me about $10 each from my supplier. EBay has them for $12.

I use Flosser 9104 blubs. they are a direct fit replacement for the stock 9004 55 watt blub and for the low beam in the sport headlight. These are 80 watt low beam and 100 watt high beam. This is a cheap way to improve the lighting out put. I've been using the same blubs for 11 years.

I think I'd go with #4. Separate system, if something go bad with the cd, mirror or another system that is integrated with it you would have to replace every thing. All so If you want to move the camera to another vehicle, you're not locked in, it would be easy. I was just a Costco looking at a rear camera set up. It was wireless 2.4 with a range of 30' (unobstructed) with several installation options all for the low price of 79.99. I've been look for a wireless set up for the back of my 5er so That I can keep an eye on my boat when towing doubles. I can't find anything I like yet. http://www.costco.com/CatalogSearch?keyword=rear+view+camera&pageSize=96

Two Fuel pick up in the same tank that feed the same pump will not work. The first pick up to run dry will suck air and cause the pump to loose it's prime. They would have to be isolated by having their own shut off valves and controlled to close be for air enters them.

This is why I moved from New England in '74.