IBMobile

PCM Ground Splice Repair It's not hard and took very little time to do. NOTE: Do this after the other modifications have been done or you will lose the ECM, VP and grid heater grounds. You need: 2 10-12 gauge butt connectors 2 1/4 heat shrink tube 2" long Rosin core solder 140 watt solder gun (Weller) or small butane torch 1 roll of electrical tape Razer knife Wire cutters Wire striper Remove the air cleaner housing this will open up the whole area to work in. No need to disconnect the batteries, just unplug the gray connector at the ground wires of the right (AUX) battery. The other gray connector may have already been disconnected when the ground wires were relocated to the back of the timing cover if a W-T . Disconnect the 3 plugs at the PCM Cut and strip the 8 gauge wire then cut the connector off the 10 gauge wire and strip it back to fit the butt connector. This is the connection with the cove off. This is splice #S109 that the grounds for the ECM, PCM, VP44, grid heater relay and data link connector. Slide the heat shrink on to the wire were it won't be affected by the heat of soldering. Remove any plastic covering on the butt connector; insert the wires into the connector and solder. Let cool then cove with the heat shrink. At the PCM find the two 14 gauge black with tan stripe wires. They go up into the split wire cover about 10" that's where you'll find splice #S126 There are two 14 gauge black with tan strip wires coming down to the connector. One is the ground for the data link connector and the other is not used. Repeat the cut, strip and solder process as above. When done it should look like this. There are no warranties implied or expressed. Written by: J. Daniel Martin AKA IBMobile 2/29/2020 View full Cummins article

Adding a Transmission Drain Plug When you have the pan off you may want to install a drain plug in it. Parts needed: 1 M12 x 1.25 x 30mm drain plug 1 M12 x 1.25 nut 1 12mm ID plastic washer Paint (your choice type and color) Tools needed: Hammer Center punch Drill motor ½” drill bit Torque wrench 0-75 FT-LB or 0-300 IN-LB Socket to fit drain plug An automotive supply store like NAPA will have the M12 x 1.25 x 30mm drain plug, nut, and plastic washer. Using a strong (rare earth) magnet on the outside of the pan to hold the nut in place, you can find the area where the drain plug will clear the valve body and a large surface area for flat contact with the sealing washer. The left front corner of the pan has the most clearance. Center punch the spot you want to drill. Drill a 1/2" hole then place the bolt through the hole and thread the nut to it from inside the pan. This will center the nut over the hole. Tack weld the nut to the inside of the pan over the hole in three spots. The three weld spots are done so not to warp the pan and to allow fluid to be able to drain under the nut. After the pan cools clean the outside of the pan and paint to stop rusting. Install the drain plug with plastic washer and tighten no more than 20 FT-LB (240 IN-LB). You may want to have a dedicated 12 quart oil drain container for the ATF. If you have to make adjustments inside the transmission (e.g., replacing solenoids, adjusting line pressure) you can drain the ATF into the container and reuse the fluid if it is still good. Left front corner inside of pan Left front corner outside of pan There are no warranties implied or expressed Written by: J. Daniel Martin AKA IBMobile 2/29/2020 View full Cummins article

I tried "jam nut", "jam". and "nut" on my laptop and desk tower with no luck. We'll punt this one over to @Mopar1973Man for his thoughts.

That is the same as 13ft-lb. Snug plus, like a couple of ft-lbs, works sometimes but if you tighten the bolts any further there is the risk of tearing the gasket. The pan may be distorted, from a pervious install, where some of the bolts where over tightened and others weren't because they didn't use a torque wrench. If it still leaks after the "snug plus" Pull the pan off and inspect both mating surfaces; use a flat surface to check the pan for true.. When you have the pan off you may want to install a drain plug in it. Go to NAPA and get a M12 x 1.25 x 30mm drain plug, nut. and plastic washer. Use a strong rare earth magnet on the outside of the pan to hold the nut in place, and find the area where the drain plug will clear the valve body and a large surface area for flat contact with the sealing washer. Drill a hole 1/2" and tack weld the nut to the pan in three spots, this is done so not to warp the pan and to allow fluid to be able to drain under the nut. left front corner inside of pan left front corner outside of pan

Rock Auto: ACDelco 2wd upper $66, lower $68. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2001,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1366602,suspension,ball+joint,10070

Let's see, the OE pump has almost 500k on it; I think it's time for a new one.

Not posi or locker but limited slip,

You can use a volt-ohm-amp meter that will handle 20 amps in line between the battery and lift pump. Check with the manufacture for amp usage but I would be looking for less than 12 amps.

When You open a blown relay you might see the part that is bad; the coil or the points. The amp draw test will show the health of the lift pump; a low amp draw is good.

This is the only wrench a carpenter needs.

@RockAuto spends a lot of money on there advertisements to garner customers from other venders. You would think they would budget a little more on employee training and supervision to improve customer satisfaction and retention. The poor service reported in this thread could cost them in lost sales later on if not addressed. @RockAuto has listed themselves in the "Vender & Dealers section of this web site. I doubt if they ever take the time to see how there company is perceived here since the last time they visited Mopar1973Man was June 26,2017.

Following a wire diagram is like reading a road map once you learn what the diagram legend/symbols are for.

I'd be looking at the wiring under the dash and Joint Connector No. 8. The power for the blower motor relay solenoid and air bag go through there. Joint Connector No. 7 is where the instrument cluster bus goes through. In the 2001 FSM see pages: 802, 8W-12-17, JUNCTION BLOCK 915, 8W-42-2, BLOWER MOTOR 921, 8W-43-2, AIR BAG 1118, 8W-90-27 No.8 CONNECTOR LOCATION 905, 8W-40-4 INSTRUMENT CLUSTER BUS 1119, 8W-90-28 No.7 CONNECTION LOCATION

Who are they so other members in the area can use them.

What size fuse are you using? What part of the relay is going bad; the coil or the contacts? Can you do an amp draw test to see how much the fuel pump is using?

I use 1-800-Radiator & AC here in the San Diego area. They are a franchise wholesale parts outlet. There's one in Kansas City, Mo at 310 89th Terrace. 861-361-5960 Give them a call and see what they can do for you.

That is big even for here. Mine is 27.5' (8.4m) from king pin to back bumper and I have trouble fitting in nation park campgrounds.

Looks good . Those opposing slides do give a lot of room. How long is that 5er?

Does it do it after sitting over night or just that one time after 60 days of none use?

I've seen that in older Volvos at the flange between the exhaust manifold and tubo when first started; there was no head gasket or oil sealing problems. Condensation being blown out.

These are the line pressures I have with Dynamic's valve body. Air temp 91°F Transmission fluid temp 165°-190°F Line pressure, transmission in drive : no throttle stopped 85 PSI light throttle 2ed gear 105 PSI light throttle 3ed gear 110 PSI light throttle 4th gear 120 PSI @ 2200 RPM W/O throttle 1-2 shift 180 PSI @ 2800 RPM W/O throttle 2-3 shift 175 PSI @ 3100 RPM W/O throttle 3-4 shift 150 PSI W/O throttle 4-3 shift 150 PSI 100% throttle 4th gear TCC locked @ 70 MPH 160 PSI 0% throttle 3ed or 4th gear TCC locked down hill slowing 100PSI reverse gear stall test 330 PSI

Take a look at this.