IBMobile

No, some people like the turbo sound with the ring left out. Why not start with just a resonator and if still to loud add a muffler.

Higher line pressure means stronger clutch holding power so yes there should be a good lock up. The down side to higher line pressure is a chance of seal/O-ring/gasket leakage. A triple disk converter should have higher line pressure to handle higher torque loads This should be accomplished by the shift kit/valve body mods. Yes. This is the ground wire for the overdrive lock up solenoid and only controls the overdrive lock up. No. This will only open and close the torque converter lock up solenoid ground circuit. No. I don't think that will help. The TV cable can change shift points by changing throttle pressure on the shift valve that the governor pressure has to over come. The transmission output speed sensor sends road speed info to the PCM which sends a duty cycle signal to the governor solenoid. The governor solenoid, by opening and closing, controls pressure to the shift valves. Leave that relay alone, don't remove it.

I replaced mine in September. Printed on the bottom of the thermostat is CALTHERM 190F 3935824 9-99 DOWN so It's a 190°F. I purchased a new thermostat from the Cummins dealer. Part number 3946849, cost $43.99

YES Plug at the ignition switch Battery voltage at: RED, PINK and PINK/BLACK wires. All other wires at switch should have no voltage. Another way to test the system for this type of fault is with an amp draw test. If you don't know how to do an amp draw test YOUTUBE has several videos on how to do this.

Glade to hear that you're bringing it back to a respectable condition. Pictures if you would please. We like to see the transformations.

How about placing a small bottle jack to the bottom side of the mount to help persuade it up.

Ran mine to the dimmer switch and a switched 12 volt source. I can't remember which wire, it was a long time ago. I like to dim the dash lights and gauges for better vision when night driving.

Start with checking stray AC voltage out put from alternator. Then think about doing this.

Weld in a stud then use a nut and washer to hold the sway bar bracket in place. The new bolt I see there is not metric but grade 5 standard.

I think you have low line pressure at that speed/RPM to fully engage the torque convertor clutch which may be caused by a weak pump or fluid bypassing from a poor internal seal/gasket, a bad overdrive piston retainer bleed orifice, or overdrive solenoid and check ball. A full pressure test is in order for a better diagnostic of the transmission rather than a ride around the block, kick the tires and send you on your way. A cheap and easy way to test if it is the transmission is to install a switch in the solenoid grounding wire. This is the orange/black wire at the B connector, terminal 11 of the PCM. You must be able to operate the switch inside the cab. Test drive the truck and when the problem occurs turn the switch to off. This will open circuit the ground causing the O/D solenoid to open and unlock the torque convertor clutch. If, at that moment, the shaking stops then you know it's in the transmission.

Idle at 16-17 and wide open is 14 at best. Your results may be different with a big line kit and a draw straw installed in the tank.

That's with factory tank pickup and 3/8" fuel lines.

That's an Airtex E7153 pump repackaged for NAPA. I have one as a backup to my Fuel Boss. It's hard press to produce 14PSI @ WOT. I wouldn't use it as my main pump. Napa is selling it for $227, Summit Racing $100. https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/airtex/part-type/fuel-pumps-electric-external/fuel-type/diesel?page=2

Test the ignition switch with a volt meter or test light and see if there is voltage at wires that that should have none with key out of ignition. You'll need a wire diagram to help with this test.

Good to have you here. I see you live in Vista, CA. I lived there for 10 years and now in San Marcos.

You must use them to keep from 'flying out'.

Did they look like these?

The cars I work on store the mileage in the DIM, Driver's Information Module, other wise known as the instrument cluster. These DIMs go bad and I've replaced them with salvaged parts. No problems other than the mileage displayed is what the 'donor' car had accrued. As for setting any codes or turning any lights on if switching clusters, No it shouldn't.

I think you can with no problems. The odometer/trip odometer gets its' info over the data bus from the PCM. If the cluster fails to receive the distance info from the PCM the odometer will flash off and on until it gets new info or turn the ignition off.

Just for the heck of it put some duck tape over the openings in the fire wall for the heater core and a/c evaporator pipes or cover over the vent openings in the cowling. One or the other will stop it then trace it down from there.

If the input shaft is misaligned it will put added stress on the input shaft bearing at the front of the case and cause premature failure.

This is from the FSM 2002 and older: Mopar MS 5931 or equivalent 2003 and newer: Mopar ATF+4 type 9602 or equivalent You can suck it out with a turkey baster and run and repeat a few times until clean fluid. OR

I installed a camera in the back window of my 5th wheel and used a 50' roll of cat5 wire from Home Depot. It has 4 pairs of wire so I used 1 pair for the 12v, the 2ed pair for ground, the 3ed pair for video signal, and the last pair for the shielding. On the truck side of things the wire was zip tied to the frame and metal fuel lines then run through the grommet in the firewall. I control the on off with a push button switch installed in the overhead light assembly. I've been using it for 2 years and over 15,000 mi with no problems.

I'd cut and cap it with about a 3" tail left incase you ever need to add a battery ground for something. It's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.