IBMobile

I think you have low line pressure at that speed/RPM to fully engage the torque convertor clutch which may be caused by a weak pump or fluid bypassing from a poor internal seal/gasket, a bad overdrive piston retainer bleed orifice, or overdrive solenoid and check ball. A full pressure test is in order for a better diagnostic of the transmission rather than a ride around the block, kick the tires and send you on your way. A cheap and easy way to test if it is the transmission is to install a switch in the solenoid grounding wire. This is the orange/black wire at the B connector, terminal 11 of the PCM. You must be able to operate the switch inside the cab. Test drive the truck and when the problem occurs turn the switch to off. This will open circuit the ground causing the O/D solenoid to open and unlock the torque convertor clutch. If, at that moment, the shaking stops then you know it's in the transmission.

Idle at 16-17 and wide open is 14 at best. Your results may be different with a big line kit and a draw straw installed in the tank.

That's with factory tank pickup and 3/8" fuel lines.

That's an Airtex E7153 pump repackaged for NAPA. I have one as a backup to my Fuel Boss. It's hard press to produce 14PSI @ WOT. I wouldn't use it as my main pump. Napa is selling it for $227, Summit Racing $100. https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/airtex/part-type/fuel-pumps-electric-external/fuel-type/diesel?page=2

Test the ignition switch with a volt meter or test light and see if there is voltage at wires that that should have none with key out of ignition. You'll need a wire diagram to help with this test.

Good to have you here. I see you live in Vista, CA. I lived there for 10 years and now in San Marcos.

You must use them to keep from 'flying out'.

Did they look like these?

The cars I work on store the mileage in the DIM, Driver's Information Module, other wise known as the instrument cluster. These DIMs go bad and I've replaced them with salvaged parts. No problems other than the mileage displayed is what the 'donor' car had accrued. As for setting any codes or turning any lights on if switching clusters, No it shouldn't.

I think you can with no problems. The odometer/trip odometer gets its' info over the data bus from the PCM. If the cluster fails to receive the distance info from the PCM the odometer will flash off and on until it gets new info or turn the ignition off.

Just for the heck of it put some duck tape over the openings in the fire wall for the heater core and a/c evaporator pipes or cover over the vent openings in the cowling. One or the other will stop it then trace it down from there.

If the input shaft is misaligned it will put added stress on the input shaft bearing at the front of the case and cause premature failure.

This is from the FSM 2002 and older: Mopar MS 5931 or equivalent 2003 and newer: Mopar ATF+4 type 9602 or equivalent You can suck it out with a turkey baster and run and repeat a few times until clean fluid. OR

I installed a camera in the back window of my 5th wheel and used a 50' roll of cat5 wire from Home Depot. It has 4 pairs of wire so I used 1 pair for the 12v, the 2ed pair for ground, the 3ed pair for video signal, and the last pair for the shielding. On the truck side of things the wire was zip tied to the frame and metal fuel lines then run through the grommet in the firewall. I control the on off with a push button switch installed in the overhead light assembly. I've been using it for 2 years and over 15,000 mi with no problems.

I'd cut and cap it with about a 3" tail left incase you ever need to add a battery ground for something. It's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.

Well I had to do it. My wife and I are spending five days in the Asheville, North Carolina area, and a mire 70 miles away is the Chicken Man in Hickory. Curiosity got the best of me, I had to know, after years of light hearted ribbing, does the Chicken Man have feathers? Late this afternoon my wife and I had dinner with @dripley, his brother, their spouses, and his sweet mother-in-law. Good food, good conversation, and a great time. I'm happy to report not one feather was seen. Dripley and IBMobile

What did you get to fix it with?

Like this charge wire from alternator to right side battery. Install a new grounding cable from the left side of engine gear case to the left battery.

no grease, no problem. What would that grease look like after 5 years? Hard, may be sticky, and definitely dirty.

I used to wax twice a year and even clayed it once. The clear coat still came off. Now I just wash it before I take it out on a trip and try to keep it covered since it's not my daily driver.

@dripley's ornament on his weekend cruiser.

@JAG1 checking the hits with his Henry. JAG1 putting some .223 down range with my AR. JAG1 busting some caps with my Colt 1911

That was a lot of work and your results are first rate. It could not have been done better.

No necesito explicar de que se trata; todo el mundo lo sabe. Es magia. I do not have to splain what it is; everybody knows. It's magic.

You're good! That top pic is the north bound I-15 between the Center City Dr. on ramp and the Deer Springs Rd off ramp just north of Escondido. The bottom pic is climbing the south bound RT 395 just north of the Conway Summit by Mono Lake, CA. pulling my two trailers. This is an ISSPRO MTG CUP, OLD STYLE black 2 1/16". Part number is R7602-OS https://www.issprogauges.com/2-1-16-Mounting-Cup-p/iss-r7602-os.htm or http://www.dieselmanor.com/isspro/R7602-OS.htm Some closeups of how it was installed.