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If Eric at Vulcan doesn't have a wire harness with relay this article might help.

What goes around comes around. This forum is Mike's platform for helping use as a repository of information and a place where we can have our questions answered. Let's help pay it back with a little extra in this months donation. I'm sending the money I saved from not eating chicken nuggets.

Yes...You do

Oil through the push rods are with hydraulic lifters like in GM engines. Below shows the oil flow in the Cummins 5.9L from the FSM.

That's why my run around car is a 95 Volvo wagon. Cheap to keep.

I don't think that's suppose to be there. That may be a hole in an oil galley. It's under higher pressure when the engine is running than the coolant pressure so it pumped the cooling system full of oil. Clean the area real good and see what you have to work with. If you have enough material to work with you could drill and tap and seal with a small NPT plug.

My 5th wheel is a 24.5 foot inside, 27.5 foot king pin to back bumper, with one small slide. On cold mornings I'll have condensation in the sleeping area but none down below. The trailer has two 15 amp outlet circuits that can be used. We plug one ceramic heater into each circuit and run them on the low (750 watt) setting. At night with an out side temp of 28°F, using just one heater in the main sitting area on low power, the inside temp is 55°F One time we were dry camping and a winter storm came through and that night the heater stopped working. When we got up the next morning there was ice on the inside of the windows where the condensation froze, it was 17°F outside. It was warmer in the refrigerator.

My truck was bought and has stayed in San Diego County, except for trips. The grid heaters come on during the cold mornings here and it also has a block heater which I've never used.

Glad to hear you had a great time. Were you able to see Lake Louise or Moraine?

You're going to have to do some simple diagnostics. Do you have battery voltage at the blower motor and ground continuity when the problem occurs? If the fuse, relay, fan motor and resistor are good then there's an open circuit in the dash switch or ground.

Red, Black, it really doesn't matter. May be they ran out of reds and put in the blacks. The material they're made from isn't important so long as the bessel doesn't rattle or squeak. I get extra pads when I'm in the Pick A Part yards. If you can't troll the junk yards, a gun cleaning patch or even a cut up old cotton T shirt would work.

@dripley are you staying in your 5th wheel and if so where do you have it parked? I hope you can put it next to a building for some wind protection if you can figure out what way the wind will blow.

We've seen in past years other members, like @The_Hammer, take a hit to their property during a hurricane but be all right. @dripleyis hunkered down in his trailer at Columbia, SC. Hope his feathers stay dry. So let's give thought and prayers for protection and safety to those about to endure the fury of hurricane Florence.

Go buy a lottery ticket because you got lucky. If you snapped the fitting taking it off I thought for sure that was seized in the case.

My "back up" fuel pump is a cheap Airtex. I have the fuse for it pulled but the relay is still connected to the ECM so no fuel pump code is stored.

First, did he check the first alternator for AC noise? Next, did he check the second alternator for AC noise? Has he done the W-T ground modification? Is there a 'Mystery switch ' installed ? Before the PCM is condemned the following should be checked: Fuse #1 Transmission control relay (in the PDC) Torque convertor clutch solenoid Wires and connectors from the PDC to the transmission Wires and connectors from the transmission to the PCM

Get a Fuel Boss.

What's every thing? Check for straight, hot tank, resurface, valve job and guides. Can you get by with just check for straight and if not straight just the resurface?

No, That's a pressure line that comes from the l/u switch valve. Use a magnet and brake cleaner spray with a straw to flush any thing out. Any metal misses will go through the cooler and into the pan to be caught by the magnet in the pan or the filter.

If that fitting is bound that tight I don't think an easy out will work. With the walls so thin It probably will just jam the threads of the fitting tighter into the case. I would take a hacksaw blade, trim it thinner to fit in the hole with the teeth angled to cut on the pull stroke. With the hacksaw blade cut grooves in the fitting at the 6 and 4 o'clock. Cut only the fitting, do not cut the threads in the case. When the two grooves are cut take a pic or an awl and work that small slice of the fitting up and out. You might want to cut one more groove at 8 o'clock to make the next steep easier. Once that peace is out you can then collapse the rest of the fitting and spin it out. Take your time and be patient. I've used this method several times over the years and it's worked every time.

The fastest, easiest thing you can do is change out the map sensor. If you don't have time for that then just buy one and put it under the back seat with a wrench to change it if you run into trouble on the road other wise go through the diagnostics below.

These are one new and four used Michelin tires that I got of a wrecked 3/4 ton Ford Econoline van for $180 mounted.

That ground wire is attached to the inner left fender with the bolt that secures the PDC. This is the same grounding point I used for my fuel pump relay.

You don't have to run the power from the battery you can tap into the PDC as shown in the article below, You can also use an existing bolt or screw hole for both mounting the relay and a ground point.

Looks like you have the T-style steering which is the heavy duty type. You can go to the parts lookup article below and on pages 380-381 find the OEM part numbers with description. After the part number and quantity, the numbers in the line column will be 7,8 and in the description column will be [Z7B,Z8B] for heavy duty. With those OEM part numbers you then can cross reference to the Moog part number. Open the link below and type the OEM part number into the "Search by Part Number" box, click on the search tab and the Moog part number will be displayed below. https://www.moogparts.com/find-my-part/find-my-part-results.html?parttype=&apptype=AUTOMOTIVE&options=2000~Dodge~Ram 2500&values=2000~Dodge~Ram 2500