2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hey folks, I hope all is well and everyone is making it through these unprecedented times. I posted a little while back about an unusually high load on my engine. I knew I was due for some new injectors as I’m currently at around 145k miles. I finally got to install the new RV275’s over the weekend. While I had the valve cover off I adjusted the valve lash as well. What a difference that made. The truck runs so much smoother now. A nice little boost in power feels good too. It’s seems to be less noisy. About all I can hear is the VP44 clattering away now. Link to post Anyway, on to my issue. As I stated above, I am having issues with a high…

In 9/2012 my tail pipe rusted out so I had a new tailpipe put on. Now the muffler has rusted out in the front where the resonator connects. The the muffler going in is 4" and coming out is 3"My truck is completely stock and I've only put 4000 miles on it in since 10/2011 So my questions are.What if any advantage is their to delete the muffler and just go 4" from the resonator back.What if any advantage is their to delete the muffler and neck down from 4" at the resonator to 3" that is the stock size of the tailpipe.The muffler shop wants around $250 for the new muffler. Money isn't really the issue here. It's just the fact that I really don't drive the truck that much.

What's the best place to get some exhaust to make my stock 3 inch into straight pipe , or if I was going to buy a straight pipe where should I purchase

My stock exhaust is still good but the tight bend over the rear axle has rusted thru. At 65k miles why couldn't I just cut that off and run the tail pipe out in front of the rear tire? Getting rid of a bend sounds good, but, are there any problems doing that? Smoked tire?Eventually I'll go with good aftermarket muffler, flow through something like that, any recommendations?T.I.A.

Guys Didn't know where to put this post, trailer/RV or here. Sorry if this is the wrong place but I am thinking about installing an exhaust brake on my 2000 dodge 3/4 ton. Looking for suggestions on which one to get. I already have a Banks 4inch exhaust with the power elbow. Thinking about a BD or a Pacbrake. Any thoughts?

I've just come across a pair of exhaust brakes, just the actuators no controllers, from pictures and measurements they look to be 3 1/2" ID on a 4 1/2" V band both straight not angled Both are off of a Daf cf55 which has the 5.9 cummins fitted but the pre 24v, I'm assuming my downpipe is stock but have't measured it yet hope they are the correct size, bigger than stock I'll be ok, smaller than stock and I'll sell them on to the landrover/cummins conversion boys Whats the easiest way to operate one without spending huge amounts ?

Hey all... I have been wanting to add an exhaust brake since I took owner ship of my truck. Would be especially nice when towing my camper. Anyway... I know I will need a torque lock controller. The opportunity has come about for a used Pacbrake. It is off an manual.. so no controller.. but does come with a compressor and tank.. don't need it just a bonus. All parts appear to be around 7 years old and seem a bit used/weathered/rusty (see pics) My question(s)... would the age or weathered/rust bother you? Do they wear down/out? Everything will cost around $500 plus the road trip... Another thing.. I asked if it was 3 or 4 inch.. he said it …

A little while ago my exhaust brake (BD remote mount) started to work intermittently. It seems that when I first turn my truck on, if I flip the switch at idle it works normally, but after driving around for half hour or so, at an idle the exhaust brake will only engage sometimes. It also seems like if I'm driving and coming to a stop the exhaust brake will engage, then as the RPMs get close to an idle, it will cut out. If I down shift and the RPS go up again, it will engage again, then cut out as I get close to an idle. It didn't do this before. I can hear the switch under the dash click as it tells the brake to go off or on, so I know its not the physical workings …

Seeking feedback, ideas, To install an exhaust brake (EB) with a non stardard method to control the EB. How?, leverage some functionality by adding micro switches, relay(s), tapping into the vehicle control modules. This is not the preferred setup and will require the operator or system design to replace the functionality of an electronic control box. Why? I have the brake itself, don’t have the expensive electronics. Thanks in advance, First Post Ever,.. Application: 2002 Dodge Ram 5.9 H.O. Cummins, 6 Speed Manual Trans. i figure a switch and string of micro switches that will turn the eb on/off could be…

I was looking at getting an exhaust brake and was pretty disopointed at the cost to get one. Has anyone ever tried making a homemade one with success? I run a auto and I was thinking can I just use the pull cable style to engauge and disengauge the brake? Sceems like that would be eaiser if you remember to disengauge it. I have already got the TC lockup switch. If anyone has done this maby you could share your blue prints on how you did so and what parts you bought. Thanks Tim

What needs to be done to a truck with automatic transmission to take advantage of an exhaust brake? Not looking for a high dollar solution. But rather minimum suggested mods.

Hey folks, This is my first winter with my Pacbrake. It had run flawlessly until ambient temps got down to around 10 degrees. Then it stopped working on my way home one night. The next morn. after I warmed the truck up for an extended period, it started working again. This cycle went on for a couple of days, then my 30 amp compressor fuse blew. I replaced the 30amp with a 20 amp. ambient temps are now around 32 and she's back to working reliably. My compressor is located by the passenger side battery as directed in the pacbrake instructions. I routed the air intake filter to the firewall behind my Bhaf. I have not yet remote mounted the actuator piston vent that pacb…

Guys,A bit of input please. I am very interested in purchasing an exhaust brake. I see that there are some that will work with my existing vacuum system and some that use compressed air..... Not certain that I want to add a compressor and associated cost.(boy it seems nice and would work for the arb in the future....) My question mainly revolves around the connection to the exhaust. I need to replace my exhaust, and I was looking at the 4" diamond eye. Many of the lesser cost Exhaust brakes I am finding (Jacobs, Banks etc...) Say works with stock exhaust only. (I am looking at the elbow type brakes.) Since the Diamond eye would replace a "stock" exhaust, woul…

well this morning my check engine light came on so i cycled the key and came up with the P0122 and P01693 i know the 0122 code has to do with the TPS which would make sense as i was bugging moparman last night trying to trouble shoot my exhaust brake not working and started digging into the APPSi guess i could start by clearing the code and seeing if it comes back..correct? it may have thrown it when i was digging in the apps? or maybe i screwed something upalso.. mopar i forgot to mention maybe like 8 months ago i did have a dead pedal issue but i think it was a bad connection on my edge plug where it ties into the map sensor with the Y.this same time is also when it fir…

was wondering if anyone had a suggestion on which exhaust brake to use on my green hulk....and if anyone might b able to tell me if this is an easy install( like do it in the driveway with a beer and and a few friends easy) or if its more complicated than that? I was also wondering which system would be the least expensive but still b reliable

Simple question...are exhaust brakes hard on head gaskets or other downsides to them?

My exhaust manifold is cracked. How hard are they to replace? Where is the best place to get one? I will go back with stock , unless that is not a good idea.

My exhaust manifold has a small crack....doubt there is any way to repair this besides replacement.Anyone have suggetions on what aftermarket manifold to buy? not sure what mods I will end up doing to this truck down the road....nothing to extreme though. Just want somthing that will help it breathe better,won't crack and won't brake the bank

After 3 long weeks it looks like my replacement exhaust manifold has finally landed. I found this but just wanted to be sure this is correct for installation torque and bolting sequence.

I am going to be changing my Exhaust Manifold in my 99 Cummins and not sure what to torque the bolts at. I was trying to search and came up with 23, 32 and 44 so I have no idea what it should be for a 99. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You