2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

I finally got around to finishing my on board air system. I now have 3 5 gallon tanks and 3 Viair compressors. 2 tanks are supposed to be from some kind dump truck other is ebay. 1 compressor is a 380c and 2 are 444c, all rated at 200psi max. My pressure switch shuts off at 150psi. I can once again run air tools from the truck. Theres also a horn behind the front bumper that really comes in handy around here.

Hi guys a guy sold me a used set of fender flares. I am looking at putting them on my truck, originally the kit comes with a rubber trim piece that has adhesive that sticks to the truck and then goes over the edge of the plastic fender flare to protect the truck. Since these are used the adhesive is long gone but I have the rubber stops still. So my question is are they any suggestion on a kind of double sided tape or anything to attach the strips to the truck.Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Tapatalk

My owners manual states that you should not jack up the vehicle by the rear axle. Any suggestions? I need to adjust my parking brake. Seems like when I get my tires rotated that they jack by the differential casting. Jack stands under spring perches?

Hi all I redid my terminals last winter and conversion to Military terminals. Now the Batteries are showing their age. Time for replacements. West Coat Central Valley TIA Michael So looking online Amazon offer Optima's for $199 720 amps Batteries plus 750 CCA Group 27 for $149 + 20% off and a $10 mail in rebate. Kind of answers my question. Thinking of selling and getting along wheelbase.

I ordered a Firestone air spring kit for my truck, installation appears pretty straight forward. I had a question about the air hose routing though. I got the optional "T" fitting as I mostly need the kit for leveling while pulling a trailer. I want to mount the schrader valve near my tool box on the passenger side of the truck close to my compressor for quick easy filling. Will it matter that the air lines from the bags to the "T" are different lengths or do I need to have them equal with a central meeting point?

My stepson in Chicago tells me this foum has the smartest people on earth for trouble shooting. This is the 3rd forum I 've asked on so it must be the charm. No shift, trans torn down 3 times, electrics replaced 3 times. this is long details This is the ongoing No shift issue of 3 months continuing teardowns and parts replacements today's TPS wires show wrong voltage unplugged. results next paragraph. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...ight-help.html which is also copied below. This morning I decided to follow JL12valves advice and check the TPS again. Put i pin in the middle wire ( orange) and got 5 volts at idle and 5 at WOT. I think is should have…

I'm not really a fan of seeing a big tip on exhaust or seeing the exhaust pipe at all. So.. a few weeks ago I cut the last few feet of the exhaust for an axle dump. What I didn't realize was how much louder it would be and how much drone and vibration would come as a result. I had a hanger/support installed but its a couple/few feet up from the end. So over the axle.. there's no support. I don't mind it being a little louder but the drone and vibration is driving me nutz <--- no pun intended. Do you think another hanger near the end would help alleviate this.. or no?

Good Evening Everyone, I'm new to the site but have been reading up on some great articles and opinions for some time now. I'm in the process of updating and replacing the heater core and AC guts under the dash, along with a new LMC dash top (yeah i know, everyone's wallet just cringed a little). For all but a short time, I know how its been taken care of since new. So, i'm willing to replace whats needed and upgrade what should be. The AC has been leaking in there for some time and i figured a new heater core is just common sense when everything is apart. My questions are, has anyone needed to replace the blend doors due to breakage (age, not mishaps wit…

OK guys need a little help here. Was looking at the body tongiht and getting it lined up when we thought about not having all the all weight on the frame will shift the suspension a bit relative to the frame due to the linkage pivot points. This would explain why some things didn't line up as expected. So I am looking for the following measurements from someone with either a 2500 or 3500 frame/suspension set up (6bt engine and manual tranny if possible!). Please note back where the measurement was taken from to the ground (center of bolt, top/bottom of bolt, joint between members, etc) something I can use as a solid reference. I plan on torching the springs to get it…

So I went to order parts....but I went out to look and my dampener is flipped up and it doesn't look like any photos. Its been a long week so maybe Im just tired. But is this a 3rd gen setup under this truck???

so I usually never let my fuel gauge get below 1/4 tank and during my last drive I did just ever so slightly. When I took a sharp turn into the gas station my fuel gauge dropped right to 0 and stayed. I immediately shut the truck off and then bumped the starter to listen for the fass to run, which it did. So I let it run but it came up normally but the needle then vibrates quickly as it climbs to 17-18 psi. If I let it sit for a few seconds it settles out no problem. Now everytime i get slightly above a 1/4 tank it starts to fluctuate between 18 down to 7-8 whenever I stop or make a turn. Side note, this is an autometer 0-15psi…

Ok guys I'm needing to replace the control arm bushings in my ol dodge, I'm looking at getting them from Genos garage but they offer 2 sets based on bolt size is there any way to tell the size with out removing the bolts

Hello Everyone, The factory battery hold-downs had become dilapidated, so in lieu so spending $60/side my friend & I modded/cleaned up the factor set. The steps/repairs we performed are listed below along with the attached photos of the before/after. Total time invested was about two hours and all of the parts/equipment we already had in the shop. I know the paint job will get some comments, so to head those off – we ran out of black so to avoid surface rusting we used brown. Once the weather warms or I build a small paint cure box, I plan to wire wheel to repaint black. Hold Down Bolt Repair/Mods – Stock had rounded bolt heads Cleaned up/ground a…

Does anyone have a way to make a switch to not be able to start the truck? It would meed to disable the VP and the starter, because the truck can be bump started. It needs to be put on a switch in the cab, that way it is easy to operate for the owner, and not the thief. Stodg

I am going to put fog lights on my truck and was wondering if it was a factory option, would there be wiring arlready there in the harness?

I have an '01 3500 dually and am finding myself experiencing the occasional "death wobble" I have replaced the track bar. Need to get under there and check all the steering joints now along with the ball joints for play. If I need to replace several I would rather look into an upgrade. Been doing some reading online, apparently there was a factory option for heavy duty steering? Which was a T steering setup? If not, what would be a direct bolt on T setup? I don't really want to have to change the taper on the knuckles or do any mods if not required. Just curious what my options are. Thanks in advance.

I've had a heater core leak before (different vehicle) so I'm familiar with the signs. The heater core in my '01 3500 has me questioning it. When I turn on the heater I will slowly get a fog on the inside of the windshield, then eventually on the door glass but I do not smell coolant. If I crack the windows and turn off the heater the fog will go away after a few minutes and leave no slimy film like coolant would. I don't have any leaks on the floor either. I don't want to do a heater core right now. I would rather accumulate what I need to do the heater core, a/c coil and replace dash board top all at once. Probably about a $500 ordeal. I also don't like to …

Hey guys, I'm close to buying a 97' 2500 and was wondering if any one knows what do i have to do to fit 35x12.5 on the 2nd gen dodges? If i can get away with no rubbing with a leveling kit i want to but im afraid it might rub too much. would a leveling kit take care of it? Or would i have to include the 2" body lift?

Hey y'all, wanted a recommendation. The steering on my Dodge just doesn't feel solid. I have very little play in my wheel, steering box feels fine. I haven't jacked it up to check for wheel movement but assume that either the tie rod ends are going out or it's a combo with the drag link. On to my question. With the 99 model, is the "Y" steering Linkage version a good replacement or are there any recommendations on the "T" conversion if it's even needed. Any links to what others have done in the past? Thanks!

If I step up to 285/75r16 tires in load range E what tire pressure should I be running. I know alot of you guys probably have this size.Thanks