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One week after installing repaired ECM on my stock 1999 2500, everything is great at this early stage. I went with https://autocomputerspecialist.com/ after reading this vendor referral. Nothing but great things to say about this company and it's communication with the customer. After describing my problems to the company rep on the phone (delayed / no Wait To Start light, lost lift pump power supply, and engine cranked and had race car cam lope at idle then die 15 or 20 seconds, and dead fuel pedal), the rep talked me into a repair rather than a purchase, saving about $300.00. Total cost after I shipped to them was $315.00. Replacement cost was quoted at $600.00, which they had in stock. Turn around time was about 5 days from me to them, and them to me. Highly recommend this company.

Hi all. New to forums and blogs, this is my first post ever. I was compelled to review this post having completed it over the weekend. First a great big thank you to IBMOBILE for putting it out there. It helped me tremendously. I opted for option "B" and added a micro relay with dedicated fuse inside my PDC. I went to a self pull it salvage yard and removed the entire PDC from a 1500 series donor with all wires attached. Cost $18 bucks and about an hour to locate and recover a suitable part. Located the fuel pump relay inside the donor part and decided to use this one as it was the easiest to get to, and I figured a fuel pump relay was what I needed anyway, and it was the same one used in the how to photo, the one with a diode and ending in a "C" part number. Side note: I tried like the dickens to figure or find anywhere on the internet and called reputable parts suppliers to determine the amp capacity of this and other relays, all for naught....nothing to be found. Just wanted to be thorough, and did not want a relay hanging on the outside. Everyone wants to sell one for any given vehicle application, but they do not know anything about the part, or other possible applications. That's why I used the relay and dedicated fuse spot in my PDC same as the photo. I used the wires and relay from the donor PDC and used split plastic conduit to run my wires from / to my new FASS DDRP02 lift pump. If you did not know this was a modification, you could not tell it from a factory input. As a word of caution to anyone wanting to do this, I highly suggest purchasing the entire donor PDC. The wires inside do not just slip out of their current position when you back probe to unlock them. My donor had other locks in place to be removed, and even then I ended up destroying the relay and fuse positions just to salvage the wires intact. I took my time to note and record the wire color and position prior to removal. My "good truck", was a little easier to deal with, although I had to remember I was looking at my PDC from the bottom, and things were backwards looking from the top. If that makes sense. I put it all together as stated in the tutorial, and I could not be happier. I had done this mod because I had lost lift pump power from my ECM. Referred from this forum, I had my ECM repaired and re-flashed at AutoComputerSpecialist in Florida because of lost lift pump power supply, and no Wait to start light. Also, my truck had a race car cam lope at start up and then would die. Doug at BlueChip Diesel helped me diagnose my problem and rule out the injector pump, as it would run smoothe when hot wired. Thanks again to this forum for the lead, and thanks to Doug at BlueChip. He will return your call and help you. Unheard of these days. Also a big shout to AutoComputerSpecialist. They happened to have a sale going on for repair jobs, and already repaired ECM's. I gave them a call thinking I was going to purchase a new to me ECM. The super nice and knowledgeable lady talked me into a repair rather than a purchase. Again, unheard of these days. I am so glad I listened to her. She saved me about $300 bucks, and the repair along with the communication via email was astounding. My truck is now up and running better than ever. I also did the ground wire mod and the alternator charge wire mod, as AutoComputerSpecialist told me that my problem originated from low voltage cranking, even though my cranking speed was up to par. Thanks again to this forum for all the help.

Great write up. Helpful to even the electrically challenged as my self.

Best source of actual informative information you can find any where. You read a lot of articles and explanations on the different generations of Dodge Cummins but adding pictures to see how it is all laid out piece by piece and then understand how it all works assembled is the beginning of knowledge needed to keep them running. I appreciate all the hard work that goes into this Forum, Thank you.

Awesome, I will be doing this as soon as I get her back from the paint shop(started leaking the day before my appointment) This should help a ton.

My truck is an '02 and I am the original owner. Back around 2005, warranty covered VP44 replacement and a retro-fitted in-tank lift pump. At this time the dealer relayed the lift pump using the control signal from the ECM, so I do not have to make this modification. Hats off to you for recognizing that the factory should have never wired the lift pump directly from the ECM in the first place. Great detail in showing how to make the conversion! - John

This feed was very informational explain a lot of unknown facts or questions that I had about the v-44 injection pump and what as big as downfalls are and how to eliminate them thank you very much

This is awesome. Thank you for Ohms as well.

This is awesome. Thank you for Ohms as well.

very good

I think the article is informative and factual based on limited information available regarding the VP44 fuel injection pump operation. Appreciate you taking the time to provide this information.

Hoping someone can give me a hand! I bought a 2002 cummins 5 speed manual in auction. Went to drive the truck home and it started great and idled fine but wouldn't rev over 1100rpm. I figured injection pump. After towing it home while it idled I got home and it would no longer start. Found plug going to in tank lift pump was damaged. Fixed that problem. Long story long I couldn't even get he truck to start even with hot wiring injection pump. I put a refurbished injection pump in and fass fuel system and still won't start. Code P1689. Followed these steps and resistance between ground and term 2 on injection pump measures Overload. Did the injection pump circuit testing and found resistance between ground and N.86 in pdc also measures overload. I suspect I have some bad wires somewhere. No power to pin 7 on injection pump harness but good ground. Completely lost and thinking of just replacing engine wiring harness. Tried a spare ecm also that I known works great. Anyone have any ideas before I do that?

Had a tough time finding instructions on how to install a 3/8 inline filter as well as exact location. Service manual wasn't all that helpful either. This was perfect! Well done on the article and for helping those that come after you!

Completed this mod today. Works great. Wish I had done it sooner. Really easy, even for The electrically challenged. Thank you @IBMobile

Thanks for write up

We'll written and we'll explained. It's a good idea to know exactly how a leveling or lift kit and large tires will affect how your truck drives. It's not just throwing parts at it until it looks cool. There are many things to consider to make it a safe vehicle. When you venture to far outside if the original design parameters there are trade offs, lower fuel mileage, wear and tear due to the stresses of large tires and the like. I'm no stranger to lifted trucks but alot of people dive into these mods and don't understand why the truck isn't reliable anymore or doesn't drive like it used to.

Can't see how we did it before v2 tuning on vp44 trucks. Thanks Nick for your hard work at making this possible.

Great info, so true but unfortunately few know about it.

So much valuable information, thank you...

first of all I'm new to the forum and still figuring out how to navigate through this stuff. the explanation and details of my situation is outstanding, I love the pictures and the step-by-step very helpful thank you very much

I just did this mod after I installed my FASS 165. I was noticing hard starts as mentioned in other threads that ultimately got me on to this mod. I went with the basic install on the side of the PDC with some velcro. I re-purposed the relay cover that FASS provided with the pump and slid the new relay inside that, it made for a very clean install. The only hiccup I ran into was reading too far into the diagram that shows the 15/35 pin wires joining into one. I had to do some digging on the internet before I realized that that step had already been done coming out of the ECM and the result is the yellow/white wire that is described in the instructions (exactly as shown in the wiring diagram haha). Anyway, great instructions, thanks for all the good info on this website.

So I'm doing this test now, but has anyone ever seen where the odometer doesnt pop up at all? WheN you first turn ignition on. all the lights come on dash? Mine don't..just WTS, blinkers, high beams, all good, but at one point my mileage rest to 0?? I have 512xxx miles on this guy...radio doesnt work. And cant get truck to crank...real low turnover, codes showing are p1693/1689/1687 and some more I cant recall... did the WT ground mod and now its p1693 only...checking IP now at wiring harness. 01 5spd Quad cab, 4in turbo back, KnN, ARP STUDS, Smarty Touch(at stock since issues occured, also only way for me to read codes, but my buddy has a handheld that also brought up the 1689 code, twice...on his its says manufacturer control..

Well done, great pics & obviously very easy to understand. So why not change out the banjo bolt for a easy 90 & a fuel rated hose back to the tank?

The way this is written, I wish I would have started here first regarding fuel pressure & just how the overflow valve affects it as well. One item though, so what do you suggest for that 5 mile steep grade downhill? Sure you can play with the throttle a little, but?

Your article is very much appreciated. I have never understood why there is so little operational information given by the manufacturer. I have always liked the Smarty S03 because I tow a fair amount. For me, you have shown that different SW settings can significantly change how fast the TPS signal ramps up with the same foot pedal effort. I don't think I would have ever figured that out. Just that one piece of information alone should help a lot of people get their trucks tuned better - I know it has made a big difference for me. Thank you, - John

This was very helpful, it was a difficult job for me, my hands took a beating and laying on the engine is a chore. When I got done putting in the grommets and banjo washers I put all other things back in order and now it leaks bigger drops and faster. I could drive it with pryer leak but not now. So tomorrow I will look for a problem right below the tee.

This is getting an education and a privilege to read. Thank you

Very comprehensive information Thanks mopar man I have some questions here though I had some issues with hard starting Checked every where as I lost prime all the time. No success I put a one way valve on my output line of fass pump. Now when fass is running with the engine off, I see 15 psi pressure on the gauge but when it turns off the pressure gradually reduces to 5 then to 0. I was suspicious to the over flow valve as it was open all the time through that small hole. The new part from cummins does the same. It's not closed. I didn't put it on the truck. What is the issue here in your opinion. I don't think the injectors are important here as vp44 systems are not common rail and there is no access between injector and the lift pump by say 30 psi. 24v cummins 1998 Fass Triple filter. Using old fuel pump housing without vanes and the stock fuel filter housing.

This is a very simple but very effective mod. The results are quite noticeable, especially if your running larger tires like I am (35x12.50).

Thanks for this write up Mike, I added the fuse and circuit breaker to my alternator circuit while waiting for my rebuilt ECM to arrive.

Extremely helpful write up! Very well done! Just have a couple questions. The thick wire that runs from alternator to PDC is completely removed and replaced with a wire from alternator to positive battery terminal on passenger side battery correct? And then the wire that you had made up with the clip in the middle goes from ground terminal on driver side battery to where? Does it go to PDC or do I ground it the same place as the 4 other grounds that were exposed during this process? If does go to the other 4 grounds then do I have to also run a wire from negative termial on battery to PDC?

Excellent resource. I have used this many times for many things!!

Another great write up from professor Nick at the University of Mopar1973Man. This is another item on my drill down deeper into how this machine works research list. Great stuff right here.

Good article. I would only add that the crossover tube should be tightened BEFORE the hold down clamp so that the injector can move slightly to line itself up with the crossover tube if need be.

Extremely helpful to have.

Best apps sensor for these trucks, simple and easy to put in, thank you m for your time to make this article.

Can't believe something this simple was overlooked by Dodge engineers. Great info as usual, thanks.

Great advice, coolant is cheap, head gaskets are not...

This is great, some day perhaps...

I did this mod and it's night and day difference, great stuff.

Always informative

IBMobile always comes up with great ideas

this is a great resource to have.

Great article. I read through this before changing out my injectors. It helped a lot.

Thanks to this article I was able to not only upgrade the bulbs without breaking the overhead console, but actually fixed one of the map light switch mechanisms!

As Always thank you (and everyone) for taking the time to document, taking pictures and sharing.. .I could not afford this truck without the information I have gained from this forum & that's a fact. So about this modification, I am not sure where I missed it, so just to clarify, the alternator lead going across the motor to the PDC is eliminated. In it's place we will have: A. Alternator charge lead from the alternator to passenger battery.. B. A power lead from the drivers side battery to the PDC. (The grounds I believe I have correct & will be done with all in about an hour) Electrical is my Achilles heel .......LOL I ON EDIT; once the B+ charge wire from the alternator is moved the shorter distance to the passenger battery, a great solution, but you lose temperature battery sensing with the sensor still on the drivers battery. You can either move the sensor over to the other battery, with some modification, or run more parallel cables battery to battery. It will need two more heavy cable negative to negative and one more heavy positive to positive. My solution is to run one longer B+ charging cable to the drivers side battery. Without the battery temperature sensing feature on an old battery that develops a shorted cell will cause the PCM to keep charging the battery at full tilt. The alternator will get smokin' hot and can cause damage. Luckily I got home before any real damage to the PCM or other possibility of a fire. I popped the hood , knowing something was wrong and the alternator was so hot it was smokin. You couldn't touch it. I replaced it and both batteries and all was fine. I did notice where the shrink tubing on the charge wire started to melt as well. I'm glad I caught it when I did. AN IMPORTANT UPDATE: A recent conversation with Billy (W-T) he spoke about the absolute importance of properly paralleling both batteries by adding one more positive to positive cable and two more negative to negative cables. This a much better solution than all other options so that the computer will be able to temperature sense what one bank of batteries need as one battery bank. Not having a situation of charging one battery while the other has the temperature sensor. IOW, they need to be properly paralleled as one battery. This very important factor has been eliminated from W-T's original write up, so I just wanted to bring this up.

Excellent write up. Thank you

Dude! Awesome write up! I'm glad I came across this now as steering/suspension is next on my list! Definitely plan on doing this! Thanks again!

finally got a chance to check this out, its a great tool to add to my toolbox. thumbs up man

Good article. I wish I would have had this when I redid my steering 6 mo. ago