Mopar1973Man

This is why I always suggest the Stealth Plate over wire tapping.

How far below the tag voltage? Idle speed is based on Engine Coolant Temperature so the colder the engine the higher the idle will be. So if the sensor is off and showing higher temperature than normal then the idle speed is reduced. Also if the pop pressure is excessive high then the timing will be retarded on the injectors so then the idle speed is lower. Very rare a VP44 can't make idle. But it more common to see injector issues creating weird issues.

Here is from the site vendors... DieselAutoPower http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/rv275-oem-bosch.htm Vulcan Performance http://www.vulcanperformance.com/New-Bosch-RV-275-Injectors-p/rv275.htm

Sure... If you don't have account on the article database let me know I'll get you set up...

Check this out... MoparMom started picking the blackberries and they are huge this year. Size of my thumb at times.

I gotta get my firewood finished for the year. I need to make 2 more runs out to the forest. I'm watching the weather change now here a bit colder in the mornings now down to 47-52*F. I'm kind of figuring on a not as cold winter but a snowy winter.

Simple way of checking this and being sure there is no voltage loss in the wiring to and from the VP44. That is called doing a voltage drop test which happens to be in the article database already. The only difference is that you will not be checking while cranking but while the engine is running (wiring under load). Any wire with a voltage loss of 0.2 or more is a instant fail. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/136-voltage-drop-testing-of-wiring-and-feed-cables Or another way is to ohm each wire from end to end and if the ohm is greater than 5 ohms its a instant fail.

Dorkweed is right Toilet paper is completely safe for filter media. I've got the Frantz Filter on my truck and continue to run 7.5-10k oil changes.

Really? Yes Sir... PM sent.

I would tend to say this would be more so common with weak battery cables or weak batteries. Because there is one rule that will never change. Watts = Volts x Amps So if the Watts or load of the device stays the same and the voltage is reduced from normal 13.5-14.5 volts down to 10.5 during a hard crank now the Amps always will jump up in respect to the loss of voltage. So same would be true for devices in the VP44. So lets say the transistor is marginal about current flow it could be just a bad ground cable on the battery that would increase the current flow on the VP44. Here what I mean. 100 Watt load = 14.5 Volts x 6.89 Amps 100 Watt load = 13.5 Volts x 7.40 Amps 100 watt load = 10.5 Volts x 9.52 Amps Cummins States 8 Volts is rock bottom voltage. 100 Watt load = 8.0 Volts x 12.5 Amps So just weak connections, bad ground or weak batteries could add extra current flow or heat to a device or single component. Food for thought...

I would say its suppose to be grounded. I would redo the that back to a clean body ground.

Wow. You did good.

Like with Linux I pre-process the video file with KDEnLive by converting to like a MPG4 or MP4. This typically compresses the file a bit more. Then upload it. My speeds are nothing to write home about at...

(Big Grin) You must of had fun sitting in the Captains seat of that beast. Fixed your youtube link..

That brings up a valid thought. How many people have butchered battery cables? How many have butchered electrical systems? How many have let their battery go dead or below 10.8 volts? How many have not paid attention during jump starting another vehicle and cross the polarity? All these things will affect the life of the alternator at some point or another. Like my battery cable are absolutely perfect like new yet. (0 voltage loss during cranking) I've never cut or modified any power system wiring on my truck. No added grounds or anything. I'm very cautious about my batteries I will refill with distilled water and then equalize charge the batteries while disconnected from the system once a month. I've never let my battery go dead! I always call out "Red is POSITIVE" to the other person so there is no mistakes.

This exact configuration is on the back of the alternator now. (Full wave rectifier). So if you put this on the charge lead there would be zero or very little voltage would be at the far side. Why? Because you only see the rectified AC already rectified DC. So if there was 0.1 AC noise from the alternator the output now would be 0.1 DC volts.

Be careful... If you place a diode in the line so positive DC will flow also the positive side of the AC waveform will still flow but negative side will stop. There is going to be more than a single diode. Remember it takes 2 diodes minimum to filter AC down to DC. 4 is called a full wave rectifier ans 2 is called a half wave.

Ok. So how would you create a filter that can hold the max current flow of the alternator like during grid heater cycles in the dead of winter without burning up the filter itself? It would be the logical thing to do but can it be done? Could there be a filter device added to the charge lead of the alternator that would warn or disable the alternator if the output is to high in AC noise? Now its time for Yankneck to think on this one?

Just like putting a noise filter on the PCM for torque converter lockup issues. Now you have protected the PCM or VP44 but now the other devices take the AC noise as well. Remember its just easier to keep a clean alternator than to attempt to filter every single device and prevent AC noise introduction. Again I'm on the home stretch of 200k on this pump. No other device issues either. It would be easier to just remove the alternator and then there is no more AC noise issues period. Pure DC power solely from the batteries.

Thanks for the video!

Here is what Ed is talking about... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOSFET

Here you go.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transistor Transistor as a switch Transistors are commonly used as electronic switches, both for high-power applications such as switched-mode power supplies and for low-power applications such as logic gates. In a grounded-emitter transistor circuit, such as the light-switch circuit shown, as the base voltage rises, the emitter and collector currents rise exponentially. The collector voltage drops because of reduced resistance from collector to emitter. If the voltage difference between the collector and emitter were zero (or near zero), the collector current would be limited only by the load resistance (light bulb) and the supply voltage. This is called saturation because current is flowing from collector to emitter freely. When saturated, the switch is said to be on.[29] Providing sufficient base drive current is a key problem in the use of bipolar transistors as switches. The transistor provides current gain, allowing a relatively large current in the collector to be switched by a much smaller current into the base terminal. The ratio of these currents varies depending on the type of transistor, and even for a particular type, varies depending on the collector current. In the example light-switch circuit shown, the resistor is chosen to provide enough base current to ensure the transistor will be saturated. In any switching circuit, values of input voltage would be chosen such that the output is either completely off,[30] or completely on. The transistor is acting as a switch, and this type of operation is common in digital circuits where only "on" and "off" values are relevant.

Kind of like a weird deal on GMC/Chevy's they used two different sized U-joint on each end...

Yea I got a spare VP44 on the shelf ready for tear down. Its a 027 Rev pump so its the newest out.

Actually you hear more about the carnage of someone doing something stupid.