Mopar1973Man

Hey Gang.... MoparMom and I just got home last night. We ran away from home with the RV. Went down south to Emmett, ID for the first night. Pick up a few things and a new BBQ grill for the RV. Then head back up Hwy 55 and turned off at Banks, ID and went to Hot Springs campground. http://goo.gl/maps/9nFRG Nice campground. Has water and vault toilets. Pull through spots for larger RV's or back in spots as well. There is a small hot spring on the other side of the highway but it a good hike down to it. Solar Power Update As for a good test run for the solar panels and inverter they worked awesome. I flipped on the TV in the hot part of the afternoon and started watching older DVD movies I brought along since there is no TV signal down there. Solar panels kept the batteries charged up to 12.8 volts to 13.2 volts most of the time while watching movies. Even charged up cellphone, cameras, and a laptop. I did figure out that my outlets of the RV are on there own circuit so I could do a bit of wire magic with a SPDT switch and make a transfer switch to power the RV outlet with the inverter and isolate the city power if forgotten which protect the inverter from city power back feed. Water Update We did extremely well with even water. But were getting close to running out of water. MoparMom suggest I go back into Crouch, ID and hit the hardware store and figure out a solution. I did! I've got a anti-freeze connection in the pump cabinet so I got me 3 feet of 1/2" ID vinyl tubing and a brass barbed connector to splice the two piece together. So now I've got a tube long enough to dip into my 5 gallon water jugs I keep as spares in the RV.

It seems that even CR engines are affected by the warmer air.

I just take a small piece of wire an bridge the connector there there is no cut wires.

Fighting a up hill battle... I've got the same problem locally here. Everyone does the same thing and ask for the problem to be fixed but I suggest a better lift pump and a fuel pressure gauge and you get "Hua!?!?"... Truck ran this long without all that. Yeah you might get lucky now but wait till your luck runs out and eating VP44 for lunch on a monthly basis. Then most owner just sell the truck. But yes I would suggest again the fuel pressure gauge.

Still seems to come back to the regulator of the pump is screwing up. Something about the old school method of check ball and spring worked so much better compared to the current method of adjustable regulator.

When dealing with spacers make sure to double check you have enough stud to do the job properly. If not I would re-stud the rear axles with proper length for the spacers.

Yeah I do when I'm the one eating chopped liver....

Might be a long time... I'm still waiting to get to 500k on my current truck so after I wore mine out I'll buy another. Then sell the 96 and retire the 02 to dirty jobs like firewood work. Then buy something else maybe a 4th gen...or 5th Gen depends whats happening by another 10-12 years.

I hate to say it Cody (GreenRiverCummins) your heard is bigger then mine. I've only got the two trucks now. I did at one time have to Dodge Car's and to other Dodge trucks too. But with economy and reliability I needed to drop the older stuff and move on with newer.

I was out getting the lawn mowed and wanted to mow around the trailers so while I had in the yard I shot a pic of my Tow Team.

Yea... But you missed one. Gov't supported by volunteers and work for free. Not the currently over paid bunch of dumb 's...

More here... http://idahostatepolice.blogspot.com/2014/06/fatal-crash-on-us-95-near-pollock.html

Really common with isolators. As for the change it common to see adjust able Raptors and AirDogs do this where the over complicated valve starts sticking and hanging up so the pressure gets lower and lower. So now you adjust it the pressure is higher and all of sudden it will pop loose and be too high. So I suggest you pull the valve and inspect it for damage.

Toyota Camry vs. Logging truck (Unloaded). The Toyota Camry had 3 young adults college age which appeared to be heading back toward Montana. I'm not certain what happen but the Toyota drift over the double yellow line and met the logging truck head on. This wiped out the front axle of the logging truck and he drifted down the guard rail to the turn off at Rainbow Bend road. The Toyota was bounced off the logging truck and thrown back to the East side of the highway. All I can say is everyone in the Toyota took on serious injuries. Please people, slow down. Pay attention to what your doing while your driving your vehicle.

This was during my install of my Southbend clutch and the throw-out bearing gotten jammed up on the end of the shaft and hooked. So no matter how much I started to push the pedal it built pressure till BOOM! It exploded and blew the whole side wall off the master cylinder out. So I had to replace the master cylinder and then pull the transmission back get the throw-out bearing un-bound and sliding on the sleeve. Never had another issues after that.

How about the USFS out here in Idaho lighting controlled burns because its too expensive for logging companies to meet environmentalist requirements to log now. So USFS idea is to burn our forest instead of logging and cleaning up. You should see the massive scars of forest that are nothing but burnt tree poles. But there contrl burn files the canyons full of smake and CO2 emissions.

I don't care if the fuel you buy is gasoline or diesel or any other liquid hydrocarbon. It all based on the chains of carbon and hydrogen the shorter the chains the lower the BTU's. Hence why gasoline is lower BTU's than diesel because diesel is a longer chain. Still in all the carbon is converted to carbon-dioxide, carbon monoxide, etc. Hydrogen burns and joins with oxygen again during the burning and creates water typically.

No pavement queen here used offroad quite a bit. I won't jump for any "3rd Gen Upgrade or modified track bars". Most all ball joint and track bar issues are typically caused from over sized tires and lift or leveling kits. I cleared 185k miles on stock track bar and ball joints. Now on my second set and just inspect the front end a week ago and its still tight no issues. The reason why I say this I've seen so many cut or modify the ball end of the track bar. Then what happens is you now stuck hunting for those particular parts. I've seen a few local truck go absolutely to junk because they upgraded to a aftermarket trackbar kit to "fix the 2nd gen issues" and then no longer can get the modified parts now.

Just remember one thing... "Nothing can be create or destroyed." So if I was to measure all the carbon in the world today it will be the same amount of carbon hundred years from now.

Oh. I seen it. In other words she's "My Mom"...

I just sent Ed a email hopefully he can help out...

I personally don't suggest Power Service products. Causes more issues than it fixes.

What? I'm chopped liver? Don't I get lunch or dinner too?

I rarely get much more than 30-35k from a set of tires from all the dirt roads I travel. Wear gets worse as I climb mountain dirt roads with trailers in tow. If only Idaho would pave all there forestry roads I would be getting well pass 50k a tire then. Hence why I don't get wrapped up with name brands. I would rather buy the absolute cheapest tire and lightest tire I possible can. Because even the most expensive Cooper STT I bought at $1,400 years ago managed the same distance and degraded my MPG number (which cost me more when you look at operational cost). So Just looking at the Cooper STT's I could of bought two sets of HiFly's and covered 60-70k miles for $100 less. Also just found out my local Big O Tires is no longer. They switched names to Tire Factory of Ontario, Oregon and still going to provide me the same deals as I always had for the last 24 years.

If the bearing was binding up from sliding on the tube the master cylinder would most likely explode. Don't ask how I know this one. As for riding the pedal I don't think it will change much of the life span of the bearing but it would indeed change the life span of the clutch (slippage). The fact the bearing is constantly turning loaded or not as soon as the grease disappears the bearing will fail pressed or not. Thinking a bit more about this grease disappearing... The only thing I could figure that would do that is excessive heat in the clutch housing making the grease sweat out of the bearing? (educated guess...)