Mopar1973Man

Like my old 1976 Dodge Jamboree Motorhome was a good RV for cold weather and held up really good to cold weather. Easy to keep from freezing and very little problems. My 2000 Jayco Eagle currently is horrid for winter weather. As soon as the temp falls near freezing the bathroom water lines start to freeze because the lines run outside the house and back up through the bathroom floor so there is about 12 feet of line that freezes really easy. So the only way I can winter camp is dry camping. All water has to be brought into the RV in 5 gallon jugs.

2001 trucks require a OBDII error code reader to get the codes. I would buy or barrow a OBDII code reader and just get the codes. Most all auto part stores with read your codes for free.

I'm glad you got that checked and enjoy your trip...

Usually the tag is on the differential showing the ratio or looking the glove box for the tag showing the gear ratio and on some trucks the tag could be under the hood to. I would pop the differential cover off and look and see what's happening. You might want to have a camera ready to pop a picture or two.

Right on. Congrads for 3rd place for a first time try.

I'm a hydraulic splitter myself I use a 20 ton splitter. I stopped till the summer heat tones down a bit. Because I love to split firewood its just I hate to set up and and shut down with in a few hours. I can do it for the whole afternoon if the weather is cool enough. But we have been seeing 95-105*F temps here at the house all summer. Ughhh... Just to darn hot to do it right now.

Sounds like the gauge itself is bad if the pyrometer probe and wiring is good.

No spare parts here.I just do my monthly inspections of the vehicle looking for damage, leaks, etc. Nothing more. I don't change sensors unless failed or throwing a error code. ECM replacement is needed if clean power is kept to it and it should last a very long time. Like CajFlynn made over 1 million miles on his ECM before replacement. Injection pump (VP44) I don't bother with it either as long as the historic MPG and performance is still good no need to mess with it.

Ok. So its different that the older starter I dealt with. So now the big trick is making sure the brush plate is in right and the right brushes in the right holder.

Wow! Even my un-local injection shop 120 miles away in Lewiston, ID will pop test for free but charge $15 a injector for re-tune which is $90 for all 6 again. But the initial pop test is free though. I would do a bit of calling around and see what you turn up. What hang me up is everytime you put the aftermarket injectors back in the problem is back but the stock injectors are fine. Now as you give more throttle the injection pump creates more pressure increasing the amount of fuel sprayed. So if there was injection pump issue I would think you would see high end power loss not idle issues. As for crossover tube if they are damaged then it wouldn't matter what set of injectors it would do it with both. So that still leads me back to the injectors. Just thinking out loud.

I wish I could see the entire starter before it was pull apart. I scratching my head to the 2 holes and the 2 threaded holes. There has to be a means of setting the timing of the brush plate and keeping it exactly right. The last starter I played with was on a 1992 Cummins so it might be different in plate design. But still the brushes have to be timed.

Odd... :think:As far as I've known the rear axle sensor controlled the speedometer but I guess the front do the speedometer. I'll have to try your test too and see what happens.

CCD network wiring. You can measure from the ODBII port on pins 3 and 11 to ground. Here is the correct error code definitions and the diagnostics for it. P1689 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/228-p1689-no-communication-between-ecm-and-vp44 P1698 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/234-p1698-no-bus-message-received-from-pcm P0562 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/197-p0562-charging-system-voltage-too-low P0382 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/183-p0382-intake-air-heater-relay-2-control-circuit P0380 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/181-p0380-intake-air-heater-relay-1-control-circuit P0215 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/160-p0215-fuel-injection-pump-control-circuit

I would say degrease and check again. I kind of doubt the head gasket is the cause but would say the tappet cover is more likely. Hot oil does weird things as it travels on a hot block blowing in the breeze.

:think:I've never heard of it. Weird but I learned its quick fix.

I wish I could find the pictures I had of a friends starter I took totally apart. All I can tell you there is a square notch in the brush plate and there will be a square lug or pin in the can that lines the brush plate up in perfect position. If the plate is out of time or just wrong position then there is a problem. As for the lack of spin is the contacts that control power for the motor itself. So if the pinion is popping out then the contact plunger is moving but not connecting to the motor (contact problem).

I do want to apologise to AH64ID if he took it the wrong way.

Nope. During the time of hose clamp vs. turbo I asked around to a bunch of vendors about upgraded turbo with my exhaust brake. No one had a upgrade for me at the time nor any suggestion of turbo that would fit the Jacobs brake. That's why I still have a stock turbo. Everyone suggested I ditch my exhaust brake then I could upgrade. But to keep it I have to keep the HX35W turbo. Not going to argue that you are 100% correct. Still not quite willing to believe it yet... (personally). So from -20*F to 110*F net me 24% loss. Well maybe seem a bit steep... Food for thought. Some of my basis of the warmer air idea. Also looking at ISX without a fan and warmer temp he creates. http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/general/0708dp_1997_dodge_ram_3500_dualie_cummins/viewall.html

But once again that was a short burst down the interstate which I never use. Also could I ask if you could repeat that again? Get the same MPG numbers and with the same load. I will admit I've seen rare high MPG's like I noted in my logs. Even ISX has seen the same thing too. Rare but do happen. So what I look at is the typical average. Correct that why I said a bit of abuse. Very true. After seeing ISX finding on the turbo discharge temps and the what the intercooler has to expel I would say you absolute correct there too. But no cooling issues unless pushing excessive with heavy load in too high of gear. Yes. I will agree at this point you need the colder air to over come the weight/load issues. So very true this why I will not upgrade more than I have. I'm at my limit. But like I stated before I got go WOT with totally stock truck and still see 1,400*F EGT's towing. So even in stock form it was mis-matched. Never said you abusing yours. Just stated it was the far extent would be abuse. Not throwing stones either. Once again... Not my Cummins. Also I never said anything about you. Just experiences I've had and how I handle hauling heavy loads and how I leave margin for safety. Nothing about your driving style. And no it wasn't meant to be rude it just I factor in road, trailer, etc but more. After this happened in the past. About the turbo ok. Asking politely how could I change my current turbo to be more efficient without replacing both turbo, exhaust brake, cam or head studs? Seriously scratching my head on that one? Just to be clear I'm not trying to be rude to anyone just I look at things from efficiency angle and less from power performance angle. This is a heck of a debate though. So. Let me back up a second why does Wild & Free say it perfectly ok to run +150HP injectors against a stock HX35W turbo? Once again racing application. That for sure not matched... I'll have to find the thread. Don't really buy that too well. Once the vehicle is warmed up so is all the gear train too. It warm to the touch as well. Wind drag change I will admit air does become more dense but I'm pretty sure it's not going change that drastic. ISX do you have a formula for wind density, temperature vs. drag coefficient. I would love to see if this is actual a truth how much lost there is to wind drag vs. temp.

Like I'm still getting into the 20's with my +50HP and 5x3 setting on the Edge Comp. I still get a wee-bit of smoke but all-a-round MPG seem to be able to get 22-23 MPG on the scanGauge II.

I would bet money you guys are right about the torque and crack problem it really does make sense of engine mount location and how the the cracks form and where.

Thanks... I needed that number. I still got to order the parts yet.

So it was a o-ring issue.

I'm stuck with my turbo because of the exhaust brake. So I can't change the efficiency of it. As for the 24V's they are a odd duck. Doesn't work that way. As far as measurements and results I'm seeing. Still and all I'm way above the efficiency average of most 24V owners. But still both you and AH64ID are two different series of engines with way different mods even between the three of us. Now if this conversation would be a little more fair if all of us has 24V truck completely stock and started comparing notes. Now the playground would be level and fair. Comparing oranges, apples and peaches isn't working. Once again 24V only... Once again why is MPG fooler showing increase with not just me but most all others? Viable mod that actually works. Why is it during cold weather even during the summer MPG is down? (40-50*F outside temp) Why is it that during warm or hot weather MPG's are up? (90-110*F outside temp) All I got to do is get up early in the morning driver ot New Meadows and day break and get 3 MPG lower than if I got up later and let the Meadows area warm and now gain it back why is that?

Once again there is the difference. I'm not out for full blown race to the the top of the hill. I am looking for fuel Economy. Fuel is expensive for me up here compared to you AH64ID. Start cold and go to heavy throttle usage in a cold state no warm up at all. Like I said just a wee bit. Again here is a difference again. I'm looking for longevity and efficiency so it outside my normal usage. I consider it a abuse. I like to leave so buffer room while towing. Because there is time like I learned of the years that once it starts to over heat you might be stuck driving another 5-10 miles to fine a safe spot to pull over. Without a trailer no problem. But I never allow the engine to put in a spot where I could but caught with a safety issue of stopping or possible damage the engine getting to safety. Once again difference between us. Already had this happen with another vehicle this why I won't do it. That is correct. But it goes to show IAT do have effect for better MPG numbers though. Once again different goal. When I'm reach higher average than your are I guess I found a sweet spot that way. 200K work of logs and 17.89 AVG. Your avg MPG 15.3. Your high is 21.5. My high 26.12 MPG (Hand Calc'ed). I looking after a different performance than both you and ISX. http://www.fuelly.com/driver/AH64ID/ram-3500 Power performance I will highly agree with both of you! YES, you need colder air for high power or racing applications for controlling EGT's. I will not argue that point.