Mopar1973Man

What 420 ATV do you have? I happen to have a 2008 manual for the Honda Rancher 420. Let me know I'll dig up the PDF file and email it to you.

Dang Russ... Anyone on the East side willing to give Russ a hand?

Easier yet. Don't travel the interstates.

Placement should be as far from the VP44 as possible. But still forward of the last filter.

Yea... Then you catch any liquid material that drips from the pipe. Typically the vapor is harmless its the liquid oil that is slung around by the fan that causes such a mess.

Back to the MPG's part of the thread. What good is it to travel 68-70 MPH? Its been proven by many people already that MPG's fall off quickly above 55-60 MPH wind drag of a flat face box is going to jump quickly as you increase speed.

Warranty claim... Regulator problems internally.

Yes there is...

Actually there isn't a coolant level sensor on these trucks. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/87-dodge-ram-turbo-cummins-24-valve-engine-wiring There is only a handful of sensors a few temperature sensors (ECT and IAT), few speed sensors (Crank and/or Cam), Oil pressure and basically thats it...

Yeah but the AirDog and Raptor line has been having problems with pump motors burning out. Kind of makes you wonder what has changed since the new ownership of the company?

Mine does the bounce to on the APPS signal I normally disregard that. APPS sensor might still play a roll in the in choppyness problem. Time for a set of crossover o-rings... Hell that far you might as well...

I was thinking of a dumb idea. Come down elbow back and tee hang the bottle off the tee elbow up and the elbow back down. Leave the bottle closed. This way you got a low point to catch oil and still vent out the end of the pipe.Hmmm it might just work...

I'm also installed in the same place...

Well you done it right since you have both codes present P0122 and the P0216 now after your Timbo's APPS replacement you should be down to the P0216 only? Am I correct? So if you still getting the P0216 code and dead pedal then the VP44 is next on the list of replacements. But bfore you order part do you have a fuel pressure gauge in the cab? What's the fuel pressure at idle and WOT?If the fuel pressure is below 10 PSI at any time your going to need a lift pump for sure.Now I just got done doing exactly this... Installed a ISSPro fuel pressure gauge, change a lift pump and installed a reman'ed VP44 injection pump. Everything is fixed for dead pedal but the stock fuel system is barely holding 9 PSI. So like I told the owner you might highly consider upgrading lift pumps to something better. Being stock lift pump is $179 bucks here at the local NAPA store and it marginal quality at best.

Tend to agree...

You "could" direct wire the pump but it might create starting issues as well. VP44's injection pumps don't like the excessive pressure during starting. This why the ECM controls the lift pump and has a 50% duty cycle during cranking then when the key is released it flipped to full 100% duty cycle. Then there is a safety issue involved too. Back in the 12V relm all the pumps were mechanical so when you the engine dies so does the lift pump. But now with a keyed hot lift pump if you where in a accident and trapped in the truck the lift pump could still be pump fuel into a engine fire and be deadly. Hence why the ECM controlled lift pump so if the crank/cam sensor no longer sees RPM's the lift pump shuts down as a safety measure.Food for thought...

All good suggestions...

That's scary... I still wouldn't want to do it...

I know this isn't quite right but the first though comes to mind is... Chinese BBQ pork http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQvRe2oHEvh2sqU5XOAKLaYDKXet3OBQPojHiVMjiii7AcaFcu-Xgym7ovz But that's hot mustard. But burns the same way... Still delicous!!!

I tend to agree with AH64ID I think most of it going to be turbo on the exhaust side.

Stock pickup and steel fuel lines are too restrictive need to consider upgrading all of it to 1/2" plumbing. I don't think so yet. I would finish up the upgrade with good 1/2" lines and it should settle down more. I would ditch the stock pickup assembly too and upgrade to 1/2" draw straw as well. If there is any quick connectors I would chop them out and upgrade to Push Loc's and JIC fittings.

Interesting...

Well I'm going to have to double check up here next time I see a state police officer. The maximum lawful speed limit on interstate highways shall not exceed sixty-five (65) miles per hour for vehicles with five (5) or more axles operating at a gross weight of more than twenty-six thousand (26,000) pounds. So a triple axle RV would be bound by the law. Even though you might not meet the weight requirements. So just with that small part of it and the "or" makes it rather grey...

As for Idaho laws it applys to any trailer in tow be it a utility, RV or another vehicle. You might research the towing laws in your state. Like a clue for Idaho is Truck speed limit is towing speed limit. (65 MPH).

Hate to sound like the towing police but to keep you all out of trouble be aware there is towing speed limits for each and every state. Just because the post speed limits is 65, 75, or even 80 MPH doesn't your allowed those speeds with a trailer in tow. http://www.hitchemup.com/statetowinglaws.htm