Mopar1973Man

No kidding... Just roll up in the and sit back and enjoy...

The family that is buying it is going do me the favor and post pictures of it change in life. So as he fixes it up he'll post pictures up of the the car... So its going cool to watch him restore the car back to the way it was the best he can. Be nice to see a 39 year old car rolling again...Yeah its sad but yes I need to let it go... There is no reason to hang on to it to let it rot away under the tree.

Well gang...I've gone and done it. I've gone and sold my 1973 Dodge Charger to a local family that is planning on restoring the car back to its glory days. This car has a lot of history being my Dad bought the car back in 1973 brand new and then hand down to me for my 16th birthday. The car is now 39 years old and got roughly 339,000 miles on it. The engine and trans have low miles on them.

Not I... But I know the Zim's hot springs down the from me does and man in the dead of winter with some serious cold temp that lodge is toasty warm even when your dripping wet.

Yeah that is so common... We all start to use short hand or cut corners in posting... I try not too... But still do it! :banghead:

It was a loose / poor connection. I found the junction area in a storage basement and re-twisted the line for the 12V and set the wire nut down tight. Then clean the light oxidation off the post and the terminals gave them a oil treatment like the truck. I want to replace the ring terminal and nip back a bit of the wire to freshen the connection but use soldier on ring terminals. Better than crimp ons.I did a quick test run and system worked better. Less voltage drop from a things. Like I fired up my 400w inverter plugged in a compact florescent light, VCR, and my portable 5" black and white TV. It was drawing 20 watts (1.6 Amps) and staying up at 12.2 to 12.3 with a full charge. As for operation of everything while plugged in... I can flip on every light in the house and the inverter to boot and still hold 13.5 to 13.6 with the converter running.The slide even moves a bit faster now while on battery compared to before...I know I know... I tell you guys all the time and this time I should of heeded my own warnings... :banghead:Yes I can still sit back and laugh about it...

Here you go... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/169-p0251-vp44-pump-fuel-valve-feedback-circuit 98-02 Error code definition I didn't pay attention to the 03 year... :banghead:

Exactly

Lets put it the simple way. The Edge Gauge are no more accurate than the senders themselves. Also remember the sender limit what gauge is capable of. Then if there is any electrical issues then the gauge reading might be flawed.I tend to stick solely to mechanical gauges (boost and fuel pressure).

First off there is no dumb questions here... That's how you learn is by asking questions so it not dumb it just you want to learn so ask away! As for R&R it stands for Remove and Replace.

Well after having a long weekend of company here at the house MoparMom and myself packed up the RV and hauled out. Knowing we had to stop in Emmett, ID for a short time to get supplies from Boise, ID so spent the night in Emmett, ID little RV park. http://goo.gl/maps/VoMe (Point B) So we got all the food and misc. stuff we wanted for our trip over to Mann Creek Reservoir. So we packed up and headed over to Mann Creek. On my way I was seen by a member of www.idahoturbodiesels.com... http://goo.gl/maps/VoMe (Point C) Now once we got to Mann Creek camp-ground we got set up and basically did absolutely nothing. Just laid around and did nothing really. Take the dog out for a walk of course but stayed quiet and relaxed. Warm days there at 89*F out and cooled down to about 65*F at night. It was nice to just relax and rest and do nothing. Here a peek at the sunset and sky as we sat outside...

Ok...On my last outing I seem to be having a problem with the main power lead coming into the RV. What is happening I was laying on the couch and watching TV (Small black and white TV) off my inverter which barely drawing 1.8 Amps and MoparMom would run a little water and the voltage would fall fast. Flip on a light volt would fall. Turn everything off and the volt meter shows low 12's... But just a few lights with drop in below 10 Volts in a short time. So I'm assuming there is still a weak connection between the batteries and the fuse panel since everything seems affected by it.

As for California smog you'll have to remove the Edge before you can even smog it...

Towing the beast behind me in the mountains and with wind... I think the ol' SGII showed 12.9 or 13.0 when I got home...Don't remember to lazy to go look.

Possible wiring fault?Defective gauge?

After 30K miles and 1 year! 150K miles and once a year brake fluid changes.

Right on Russ... I've got a tale to tell as well soon...

Hmmm... As stated over on Wikipedia... If its used for inhalers and air soft guns I doubt there is any issues with discharging freon in the atomphere.

Hmmmm... That a lot of water! Wow!I've only got 50 gallons but mounted at the rear bumper. Which tends to me make me a bit tongue light running full tank which I typically do.I'm really curious of the pin weight...

Well I got back from a camping trip and hauling the trailer around. Yes I can tag 35 PSI without thinking but do I really want to hold it? Naw... I typically go over at 20-25 PSI in 4th Gear holding 53-55 MPH... Not a problem!

I'm at 147K miles and going for 200K...* 2 Cycle Oil (128:1 Ratio)* AirDog Filter (3 Micron)* Stock Filter (10 micron)* 17-19 PSI Fuel Pressure or cold temp pressure 15-17 PSI (<+32*F)

I'm not too worried about the coolant passages as much as like the heater core, oil cooler, head gasket, etc. These are THIN items and take very little to ruin. So that why I suggest talking to a radiator shop about the coolant flush so not to make things worse... :smart:As for the callipers that points out what I've always said about full break down of the caliper and cleaning to remove the debris. Over time water and debris build up in the bottom start rusting. 197K miles and still got factory callipers and rotors...

I've been using Fleetguard filters since the begining. No problems here... As for the filter guru talk to AH64ID...

:doh:Actually you goofed on the brakes. The piston should of been cleaned and not bore honed. Then the piston should of fell to the bottom of the bore without the seals in place. Normally I do have to use a C clamp to push the assembled pistons back in. But the dissembled callipers should allow the piston to fall to the bottom. Honing is only required if the bore is rusted.Now as for the coolant system that was caused from acid or basic coolant erroding the block and other metals. What your looking at is the oxides of those metals. Just because the coolant is still clean and the freeze point is good doesn't mean the pH level is good. As for the cooling system I would ask a local radiator shop on how to clean that up. (Boiling, acid wash, etc.)

I know where a bunch of RV dump are close to home. But I've also got a clean out on the septic system to allows me to dump at home or clean up the tanks.Just a nasty job no matter how you want to deal with it...