Mopar1973Man

Maybe I shouldn't talk... :rolleyes:CajFlynn gave me his old RV275 with over 450K miles on them had them pop tested in Lewiston, ID and they passed. The misfire issue I had was cause from dirt/debris in the pintle area. So far haven't had any problems... :shrug:Make me wonder If I'm borrowed time...

Click on the links above and they will take you to the diagnostic pages of each one or... Or go here and type the P codes in the title filter box and it will show each error and diagnostic... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes

You might be waiting awhile on information on Delphi lift pumps... Most people are running FASS, AirDog or Raptor fuel systems. But just maybe someone here might have some information...

Assumed... Because I UV check all the stuff under the hood and couldn't find any dye so I assumed the evaporator failed twice. Because after replacing it it ran great for over 9 months then failed again... :banghead:

Calibrate your speed on the ScanGauge II by using a GPS and have both display speed. Then go into the menu on ScanGauge II under setup and display speed. Then change the speed to match the GPS. Now you have a accuracte speedometer/odometer on the ScanGauge II... But this will not fix the stock cluster... Sorry...

P0237 code... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/167-p0237-map-sensor-voltage-too-low You might want to run through the diagnostics on that page... That could be the source of your limp mode and lack of power. When the ECM can't see the boost pressure it goes to limp mode to protect itself from damage...

Might be a good time to start a new thread on how you did your propane mod...

I've got black polyon line and can't see if there is air in the line or not. Did effect my reading at all...

The smell of burning oil might be just the vapors given off by certain engine oils. Like Rotella (Ro-Smella) has a very heavy oil smell almost like a tar smell when the engine is ruinning and vapors are blown off.As for the 2 cycle oil you could try it for the fuel system system and keeping it lubed up. But the 2cycle oil has nothing to do with the oil smell your getting most likely...

I want to see more of the propane setup... Mom and I are taking about more outdoor cooking and portable propane stoves that allow you to cook outdoors instead of inside where it gets rather warm on a hot summers day.

Your error code definitions are off slightly... So here is the links to diagnose it... It looks more like a CCD Network problem that a failed ECM / PCM at the moment...

The cabs might match up mount wise but I doubt the wiring and other stuff will... I would at least stay in the same range of body. 1998.5 to 2002 will all interchange...

Got you covered... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/39-timbos-apps-installing

I agree I would stick with Fleetguards, baldwin, donaldson, Luber Finer, etc... AH64ID has a table floating around on specs...

Here you go... Skip the snubber install the needle valve... As for wandering if its a electric sender then you might have to replace the sender due to being damage already. Mechanical gauges you know when youe set right because the gauge no longer is buzzing.

Russ is right about the pre-wired connector mine is also. The socket should be near the E-brake pedal. But being trailer brakes are electrical double check everything power wise and that the controller has power and its sending power to the trailer.

Sorry to say you need the $25 a quart stuff from the dealer. Castrol Syn-Torque... Part stores don't normally carry it.Now as for using something else there is conversy about if it effects the syncro's in the transmission. When in doubt use the proper fluid...

Might try over in the Download area getting the Dodge FSM and seeing if there is anything listed... Since you don't have you signature post I'm not sure what year...

Simple thing first you could try is a seal kit for about $10 buck and replace all the seals in the system.

I'm in the same boat... I've now replaced the evaporator twice, the high side pipe (orfice tube), and Condensor. The only thing leave to replace is the rubber hoses and the compressor...I'm also still chasing a A/C leak too... :banghead:

Skip Ebay and go directly to the source... www.scangauge.com At least then you got a full warranty and support when you need it.

I did that too... I need a few more can and crawl under it and shoot some more difficult spots and treat some spots and control the rust from starting. :rolleyes:Thing is I've been hanging around a bunch of RV forums... Boy some guys can really spend some money on toys and such. I'm hoping to hear from you and some your ideas that are simple and down home.

I went down to the local hardware store and bought a 6 foot length of clear vinyl tubing for the 96 Dodge and replace all the plastic tubing with vinyl tubing... Worked good so far no problems with sucking flat either.

I need to give mine a some kylon tune up to the frame... It might be a neat idea to freshen the rim paint. :smart:I'm curious of your reports on your new TT. Any flaws, battery life? Propane? Etc... Then hear about mods that you might do... I need some ideas...

Might kick it up to 5x5 and check again... Even with super cold temp of +6*F starting temp and a high of 33*F fo the day I still pulled 21.6 MPG on my last trip down to Donnelly, ID with the Cummins...Tire size... For every 4 pound of tire your get rid of mean 1 less HP required to push the truck down the road.Tread pattern... Aggressive tread pattern will create up to 20% more drag than a standard street tire.Brakes / Bearing dragging... Are you brakes working properly? Do you have bad wheel bearings?Weight / Cargo... Are you carrying excessive aomunt of junk on the truck that could be left at home or thrown out?Speed... Are you traveling faster than 55 MPH? If you are just going from 55 to 65 MPH will double your wind drag... Then from 65 to 75 MPH your wind drag doubles again (or 4x as much as 55 MPH). Slow Down!Brake usage... Are you following to close slowing down and then accelerating again? Everytime you use your brakes you convert your motion into heat on the rotors then acclerate create more load on the engine to catch up again. Using Cetane boosters or fuel additives... Don't! Cetane booster don't increase MPG actually the reverse it takes away from the MPG because the higher the cetane the lower the BTU's. 2 Cycle oil is a natural cetane REDUCER. ScanGauge II... You might try one. Once you calibrate the SGII you find it a good tool to learn how to get the most MPG's from your truck.More?