Mopar1973Man

5 Speed NV4500 and Automatic Transmissions where a 235 horsepower 460 foot pounds of torque engine... 6 Speed NV5600 was a 245 horsepower and 505 foot pounds of torque engine... There was differences in the ECM for all transmissions. Like the Automatic transmission didn't have the idle governor like the manuals. Then the 5 speed and 6 speeds had a minor difference in the software fueling and timing.

But when you doing you math make sure to include the gallons of propane too.

Can't hold down a good Cummins I guess... But the owner is a bit... But we know its all...

Check Engnie Light might be gone but the code will remain for 40 warm up cycles so still check the codes...

My prayers are with your Dad your family...

Yeap Wild & Free is correct... It might be so for a gasoline engine but not for the Cummins diesel its just 2 bolts...

Most came with standard diff as far as I know... If you look under the hood (on the actual hood) or in the glove box there should be a sticker stating type of driveline installed.

Boy that's a insane amount of weight... I think I stay at about 20K GCW and call it good...

Get worse here (New Meadows, ID)... $4.399 for diesel and heading up again soon...

Normal its siphoning from the fuel tank. All you need to do is drain enough to get the water out. few ounces...

It all about temperature... What ever way you want to do it just keep the direct sunlight off them in the summer time. (Some states are goofy about windshield tinting...)

Yeap you got to drill and use screw or bolts...

Nice setup... But I'm going to warn you that the ScanGauge doesn't like bright hot sun... It will damage the display if heated to much on a hot summers day. So if your slick use a window shade or create a cover for your diplays so the sun doesn't damage them. Hence why mine is under the edge of the dash bezel.

Another missing step... 4. What is the reported IAT temperature from the ECM? If the IAT sensor is bad and reporting unnormally high temperature then the grid heater are cancelled completely. I've seen one other report where a owner was seeing with a live data tool the IAT temp was 120*F on a -20*F morning... Of course the ECM takes this value and processes accordingly and not use the grid heaters. Like on my truck with the MPG fooler on my IAT is set permanently at 140*F and my grid heater are disabled...

That's the problem just our trucks (diesel) are limited. But since I do own a gasser too I can access the other sensors on it just fine. As for the 03 and up the work fine too. It just the 98.5 to 02 Dodge's that are limited is sensors readings... I'm trying to get a some time and talk to the coder at ScanGauge and hopfully make a corrected MAP sensor gauge.

Well I don't believe in the straw in the module... Mine is the old fashion straw in the tank and never had a 1/4 tank issue. I can suck it right down to the empty mark on the gauge without a problem.

Here is the write up of it... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2856-DIY-Pinion-Seal-Replacement-Dana-80

A little secret about ScanGauge II they are comming out with a update software and design that allows it to be used as a data logger so after you done running a trip or such with the ScanGauge II you can unplug it take in the house plug in your USB cord and download the data from the ScanGauge II and graph it out... The other thing I love is the XGauge function of ScanGauge II which is cool for other vehicle where you can program a long list of different gauges. I'm not sure that UltraGauge has this function... http://www.scangauge.com/support/pdfs/XGAUGE.pdf

Thank you for the kind comments...

No one's laughing at you... (Valid question - That's the only way you'll learn is by asking questions! ) But a track bar is a bar that holds the 4WD front axle center in the springs. Its got a ball stud on the driver side and the passenger side of the axle has a bushing. But the driver side ties to the frame. Passenger side ties to the axle. As the track bar wears out the ball stud start to move and the axle start to shift left to right in the coil springs causing a pull to the right. (At least in my case). Here is my youtube vid of it... (Watch the bar and the axle)

Sounds like mine now... Well I'm doing the foot work looking for a cheap track bar now... ---- Searching.... Well after digging the internet... NAPA at $82 locally. (Only got a 12 month or 12K mile warranty) RockAuto.com $52 but here is the kicker Mevotech has a 5 year or 100,000 km warranty... Hmmm And even check in Ontario, OR toady and they wanted $150 for there Chinese cheapy...

Real nice there...

Well the only good thing about the AirDog, FASS, and Raptor pumps is there lifetime warranty. As for the Walbro's you might look into the warranty of it and how much time they give you... As for plumbing I would use a 1/2" Big Line Kit and be done... As for the HD carters... I bought one and it barely made 11 PSI at a idle with a 1/2" Big Line Kit.... Not to mention HD Carter's are not designed for diesel fuels...

Problem with the Special X that I've been told from other forum members that the Special X pump timing has been advanced during the build of the pump so adding another programmer or chip on top of that will over time the engine cause a degrade in economy and performance. Stick with a stock pump you'd been MUCH happier. As for buying a pump form anyone I would research the warranty more that anything. Because I heard tales about getting a great pump but being shafted when it was time to collect on the warranty. Tales of pulling pump apart and blaming the customer of poor fuel, water, etc. Won't do you any good to buy a pump and then have a issue then have to buy another because of shady warranty practices...

Patience grasshopper... (Patience my Arse!)