Mopar1973Man

Just though of another issue might effect this problem... What is the size of your extension cord? Like I've got my RV sitting in the yard and plugged into 120 VAC (actually 123-125 VAC out here) and have a small electric heater inside with my DVM plugged into the wall socket and turn the heater on the voltage falls to 105 VAC turn it up on high and it falls again to 98 VAC. This is 16 AWG shop extension cord at a total distance of 100 feet. But now switch over to a heavy shop extension cord the voltage loss is less. So if you got too light of a extension cord ran to far (too long) it might reduce the over all voltage supplied to the block heater.

Well after looking through my books here I can't find a P0260 code for a 2006 Dodge Cummins at all... But looking at the generic code reference I would say its a fuel system related fault and Dorkweed might have a good idea there...

Like ISX said I typical fire up and head for the highway and take it easy till I hit the lower band of the normal mark (160*F). The only time I use the high idle really anymore is if I'm being lazy and want a warm truck to jump in so I'l fire it up set the high idle and exhaust brake then come back in the house and the grab my stuff for the day and head out. Even by then most times the engine coolant is up to 100*F and the slightly warm air is coming out of the vents. But like ISX pointed out high idle does consume a large amount of fuel while loaded with the exhaust brake on.

Being you measured 20 ohms tells me there is something going on yet... I would check the cord for good connection using the Ohms again make sure you have 0 Ohms from pin to plug. Then check just the heater element for ohm and see what you get. Check the plug for oxidation the dark funk on the plug will cause the plug to get warm. I got to lightly sand my plug now and then to get the oxidation off the prongs... Should be a nice bright brass color.

I've got less that 100 feet to the highway... I might idle for about 1 minute and get rolling but I'll take nearly a full mile to get to 55 MPH and then hover there till the engine makes it to 160*F (lower end of the normal range) and then kick her in the ribs and get with it.

P0260 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control "B" Intermittent Injector Let me do some research for ya and I'll post up more information. The code above is a generic definition so let me dig in the morning on this and I'll post more...

Yes sir... Right out of the TSB from Dodge...

Typically it forms on the valves stem and its a tar like substance and eventually gums up the valves till it starts slapping valves with the pistons and/or bending pushrods. Build up of fuel in the oil would most likely be a bad injector leaking.

Kind of like... http://www.dodgedakotas.com/articles/timingchain/

Don't have much of a choice where I live... Everything is a NAPA... The closest Autozone or simular is over 3 hours away in either direction...

Ok... The stock backup light are after the key so if you turn off the key the lights should go out. So that means there is a short from +12V to the lights feeding the circuit constantly. I would check over your wiring and any modifications you might of done to the reverse lighting.

Kind of like beacon grease. You leave it sit in the pan and cool and it will turn solid and white. Summer diesel does the same thing for the most part but it more like jello from what I've been told. But when the weather/fuel warms back up above the cloud point of the fuel it will convert the wax to a liquid state again. But yes it best to have a spare filter no hand you never know...

Just because of this post I desided to do some changes to the write up to help aid people and there question on how to build them... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/crankcase-vent/crankcase-vent.htm

Where I live at it rarely gets to below 0*F... But everywhere around me does drop in the minus numbers but as my luck should have it there is no where to plug in at while away from home.

Like W&F mention about the few drops now and then I also get to... Especially if I been towing heavy... So it's not going to absolutely fix it but it will help.

Take a DVM and measure the ohm value on the block heater cord and tell me what you get. I know ISX has the coversion table for this...

Hey Prowelder... I wasn't knocking the 75 HP sticks... Yeah like CajFlynn is running 75 HP injectors as well the last time I knew...

As for gasoline I would never use that... But as for access to #1 diesel is a long way from me (100 miles)... But the local hardware store does have kerosene in stock. But like ISX mention its expensive. But checking over the local fuelstation and talking with the owners I know who is adding PPD's (pour point depressants) the fuel and who isn't... EDIT: I was curious and did a quick search and found this... http://www.toad.net/~jsmeenen/fuel.html

I was just in Riggins, ID today and it came down slightly... $3.639 for diesel Why in the hell is gasoline down to $3.099 I have no idea...

Yeap... The APPS sensor is the same on all 98.5 to 04 (Correct me Wild & Free if I'm wrong)..

1/2 PVC pipe and kept the end of the down pipe high enough that the front driveshaft can't hit it.

We all are here cheering you on!

There is a difference then... With mine in a unheated garage hovering around 32-35*F I get about 110-120*F IAT/ECT temps at start up no grid heaters... This is with the hood open too..

I've got a terminal block under the steering column that is all fused... 1. Battery +12V2. Switched +12V (Relay controlled)3. 4. Battery Ground So yes I got a single wire tapping a fuse but its to control the relay for terimnal #2 As for number 3 I was thinking of using it for panel illumination but never did...

You might end up splitting the sink tube to gat at it better... But I'm glad you found a lead...