Mopar1973Man

Not bad.. I like it... Too bad I don't have one on my truck... But Mom's 96 does...

Ummm... P7100 pump conversion might be very expensive... Just in parts its about $3,500 to $3,800 bucks. Then the engine has to be ripped apart. The gear case has to be changed, cam got to be removed, etc... Then you got to send you injectors to be re-popped to run with the P-pump. It goes on and on. By the time your done you could buy 2 VP44's... No pump included at $2,100... http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/vp44-p7100-injection-pump-conversion-kit-for-9852002-dodge-cummins-p-28785.html?osCsid=2638685c8e5b8356749b04196667de77 Not very reliable...

Blue Chip has already tried this and failed... There is no way to reomve the electronics from the VP44 and remote mount them... Also something to thing about... When was the last time you heard of a P180 error code being reported on the web?? DTC P0180: FUEL INJECTION PUMP TEMPERATURE OUT OF RANGE Description Fuel injection pump temperature is monitored when ignition is on. DTC will be stored if problem exists in fuel injection pump. Possible cause is internal failure of fuel injection pump.

Crack a injector line and check and see if the pump is pumping fuel. Trade the fuel pump relay in the PDC with something else to verify its getting power to the VP44. As for testing the ECM you would need what I call a "Cummins Cheater Box" which plugs into the VP44 and excludes the ECM. This should all the truck to start and if you toggle the high idle switch the VP44 should respond by going to 1,200 RPM's. This will prove the ECM is bad and the VP44 is fine.

Another pic... Actually the only way to see the MAP sensor pressure correctly is with a Edge Juice/Quadzilla Adrenaline modules... Or... SnapOn OBD II scanner... Or... Dodge's DRBII tool. That why I suggested the mechanical gauge because that is the cheapest way to see boost for about $30-$40 bucks.

The Dodge ECM's have a offset voltage so it mis-reports the boost pressure. Like mine shows 28.6 PSIa on my ScanGauge II so I know that is the case... As for testing I would suggest you use a mechanical gauge you can hook it up here... HY35 can get at least 30 PSI of boost with a boost fooler and a j-hook present but without that the wastegate will open at about 18 PSI and the ECM will trip the check engine light and trip a P0234 error saying "Boost exceeded maximum limits". Then the engine defuels heavy.

Check your error codes... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm With the line loosen when you crank the engine its should look like a power washer under the hood when the pump is working right. So from what your saying I would check for error codes to verify the VP44 is dead and replace it... As for $2,100 for a pump it better be a DragonFire Pump... http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/industrial-injection-dragon-fire-vp44-140-more-flow-stock-p-18763.html Because stock VP44's are much cheaper... http://www.dieselautopower.com/product_p/sovp44.htm As for shop rate... It exactly 4 hours by the book to change a VP44 but I can do it in about 3 hours...

Personally I don't think the HR VP44 is worth the extra money for only a extra ~40 HP. They don't last any longer than stock. Anything that taps the VP44 is going to given you the most power for your buck. Programmers and untapped boxes only will produce a max of 60 HP roughly. Cooler is a matter of your foot... Like my Edge Comp on 5x5 and my cruise set at 55 MPH I'm barely pulling 500-550*F EGTs. But stomp my foot into the throttle and I can see 1,400*F rather easy...

JL... I don't know what to say anymore... Its like the problem won't die... I know the shopping list is longer that the truck now... I know you got a comma in the total price invested. All I can say is yank the engine out place it on a stand in the corner of the shop and sell the parts... Find another engine with the electronics and install in your truck... What ever you decide to get as a replacement you better test drive first...

Ummm... Like today it was 88-90*F it nice to have it when it is hot... Trust me... I'll be much happier when the temps fall to around 20-40*F... (Ahh...)

Little bit of information for my wanderings... Well what I can tell you is the front axle will be near it Gross Weight Rating... So keeping an eye on steering parts is in order. (Ball joints, tierods, etc). I heard tell tale stories of overheat issues with the blade in the full up position. Some will suggest to drop the blade just a little from the top so the air can pass over the top to aid in cooling. I've seen spoilers that mount to the top of the blade to aid in air movement over the blade. But wonder how that will last when you might be shoving some large amounts of snow and ice. Little secret I found at least for my truck is if you soften your tire pressures slightly to add just a bit more belly to the tire it will aid in traction. The only thing I got to compare ot that is my neighbors ATV with a blade which I use to blade my yard and his every winter. So I understand the concept but on a smaller scale...

Like I had a conversation with ISX one evening about this... Like we all know that everything has a operation range to it... So like for example you take your laptop with you on a hot summer day and place it in the back seat. So now your truck is parked out in the sun baking away. The cab temperatures can rise to 140*F really easy on hot summers day. so even that laptop is baking in that heat. But now try and operate that laptop in that kind of heat at 100% CPU load I'm sure it would die in a short order. But just leave the laptop sitting there in the heat it will survive... But now looking at the VP44 yeah it might operate at 80-100*F of fuel temp while going down the road. But now turned off its getting heat soak sure so is the ECM hanging on the side of the block. But it not like you firing up the engine and going to 100% load from a dead stop. If your lift pump is doing its job and pumping high volume flow by the time you roll out of your yard and get to highway speed the VP44 is sheding a huge amount of heat in the fuel. So I think most of the P1688 failures are cause from low fuel pressure and poor return flow which in turn does a poor job of removing the heat soak on the VP44 electronics. As for the electronics they have been revised several times over the years to improve the performance of the electronics due to heat soak. Like my own VP44 its going just fine as long at the fuel pressure is kept up above 14 PSI I know the fuel is flowing past the electronics and cooling them.

I was allowing this thread to continue hoping JKidd would show up and explain/deal with this issue but out of respect for vendors and people I'm closing this thread... I hope you all understand...

No kidding... I think he's mastered how to work a wrench in on hand and hold the camera in the other... --- Update to the previous post... In you pics there I've never seen that can before??? Ok... So 1 line from the vane pump drives the vacuum brake booster. There should be another line that is smaller that passes through the firewall... Then somewhere there is a tee and a another line should head down for the CAD switch (transfer case). As for my numbers they have no bearing... (Sorry)

Like I got a thread on this... But the simple way to look at this is the fact there is only ONE inlet and 2 OUTLETS for fuel to travel. The INLET is from the lift pump to the injection pump... The 2 OUTLETS... 1. The first outlet is the injectors.2. The second outlet is the overflow valve which only open at 14 PSI of pressure. When the pressure falls below 14 PSI the valve starts to shut till its completely closed by 10 PSI. So now as long as you giving throttle there is fuel flow to the injectors. But if you coast the pump bypasses the injectors and suppose to route it towards the overflow valve. But of the pressure is to low in the pump (internal vane pump wore out) then the overflow valve will not open enough to keep the electronic cool. So like on my truck I maintain a MIN pressure of 15 at WOT and 17 PSI at a idle and I know I'm flowing plenty of fuel through the VP44 during my cool down.

Doing brakes don't require any special tools to do. Just standard sockets and wrenches. As for bleeding you can do that yourself too. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/brakes/brakes.htm The 2 wire plug into the ABS module under the edge... You'll have to feel for the socket under the edge of the module. As for the vacuum line I would replace the section with a proper size piece of rubber vacuum hose which should withstand the acid a bit better than the plastic tubing. As for that vacuum line at the firewall... 1. First goes to the vacuum res. under the cowling. 2. Second line takes off and heads into the cab for the HVAC controls. 3. Might be one that leaves this point for the CAD system.

Thanks for the tip on the vacuum test... As for the oil... I learn my leason long ago about buying freon with a oil charge over time it will flood the system with oil and like you said decrease the performance. So very true... To empty the system of oil might be a bigger PITA that most think...

So far the second ride out and about 4 days after the repair and still holding good cold A/C. So now I change all O-ring except 1 at the condenser and the 2 on the back of the compressor. The evaporator is new this spring. So I think I got it all covered for now...

Hmmm... Wow! I better go voer and do some reading... Well I'm fresh out of other web sites. Let me ask around locally and find out...

Can you possibly get a phot of this separation spot your talking about... Oh yeah get the wife to do it...

Interresting video there... It explains how the the AC compressor functions for the most part...

Well I stopped in the local NAPA sotre and order a set of O-rings for $10 and proceeded to replace all the o-rings in the system. Be aware there is 1 O-ring missing in the kit for the condenser up front so remember to pul it and take it with you for size. Re-assembled everything and place a vacuum on it and it held for at least 20-30 minutes while I did other things like straightening all the condenser fins. So since it held a good vacuum I figure its time to toss my last 3 cans of freon at it and hope for the best.

Well get it fixed now before it get worse... Like my motorhome its a wonderful rig but the coach needs new skin... :banghead:

Well now your down to just a injection pump error codes... So replace the Vp44 and lift pump and you should be heading in the right direction now...

Here you go so you don't have to dig everywhere... http://www.tstproducts.com/j-hookassembly.aspx