Mopar1973Man

This post...

See... I knew it was coming...

That's what I got on my truck now is a set of Rancho's 5000

I don't want to open mouth and insert foot but I'm no better...:banghead: I know IE8 and IESpell are there... I know FireFox has a spell check and so does Opera... Rarely use them...

No... Sad to say I did a video on this and shocking to see at 17 PSI it can't pass enough fuel to open the return line... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=YREpPrMxkHU --- Update to the previous post... That's funny you posted the same thing...

Yeah the MAP sensor plug...

Actually its internal to the pump... Take notice to pin #5 has the fuel shut off signal

Typical don't have a issue with cool down... It when I've been hauling heavy... So if I'm coming home loaded with firewood I'll pull in the yard and unhitch the trailer and leave it idle while I deal with the trailer by that time the engine is cooled off...

Yeap I do the same thing... If I 'm hauling heavy I shut the exhaust brake off and start gearing down about a mile out and let it coast to my driveway. This drops it from 900*F to 400* in a quick hurry. Then I don't have to wait a long time to shut down.But if I use the exhaust brake pull in the yard and then I might have to wait 4-5 minutes for the turbo to cool below 350*F...

Ummm... I've been using ArmorAll protectant for years on my 2 Dodge's which is a 1996 and 2002 neither dash has cracked yet. The key feature to how long your dash is going to last is how little the dash is exposed to direct sunlight. So I hate to say it but I don't think ArmorAll made a poor claim I think its about the material that Dodge used for producing the dash in the first place... http://www.dodgeproblems.com/problems/cracked-dashboard.shtml Not uncommon... http://www.google.com/search?q=dodge+dash+cracking+TSB&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a

Actually the P0216 is from the fact the ECM is calling for certain amount of timing and the timing is not being reached. This is apparent with the white smoke in the mornings (retarded timing) and bogging down.

There is something wrong for sure... What's your fuel pressure like? (Need both WOT and idle pressures) How is you fuel filter when was it changed last? Being you can only rev to 1.4K that is pointing to limited fuel delievery (low fuel pressure) or timing malfunction...

I agree I think the ECM software has been program to understand the offset and deal with its location... I think where things go bad is when people relocate the sensor like to the 3rd gen or 12V location or up on the intake elbow...

I hate to say it but a wet cell battery is more durable than a dry cell... But since most all batteries are made by a handful of big corps. I would look at warranty coverage more so than name brand. Like I got a Napa battery in Mom's 96 and its been rock solid now for 2 years. (Hard to compare apples and oranges). But with all breeds of batteries out there I would look at the warranty more so...

As from what I found out with accidential use of the IAT sensor fooler from my high idle mod I can set it for 26*F or 13*F IAT temps. From what occurs is uncontrolled smoking even with the Edge Comp OFF from the get go and much lower MPG's. The colder the IAT becomes the more smoke and less MPG I get... Like I meantion before right around 90-110*F IAT temp is the best for MPG's.

Actually safer yet... On - Auto Skip the OFF idea... Like on my Goldwing Motorcycle if I know I'm going to be trapped in traffic I flipped the coolant fan to ON. But if I flipped the switch the other direction to AUTO then I knew if I forgot the coolant fan would come on if I spaced out and wasn't paying attention to coolant temps...

Well during our brief get together in the Chevron parking lots you now understand the 24V's problem of placement now. 12V and CR are lucky to have the sensor in a good place and show close to normal temp instead of offset temps because of coolant jackets and poor air flow...

Thank you for the great comments they mean a world to us here... More the merrier... We are all here to learn from each other.

I had to pick on ya... Like me when I'm around home I use Mom's 96 for local stuff but long haul I break out the Cummins... So I know what you mean... But I had to pick on the Go Kart...

Actually there is no check valve technically in the system. It just a air tight system that holds prime so if there is a bad O-ring, fuel line, etc it will bleed air in the system allow the fuel to drain back to the fuel take. Like the overflow valve is a check valve but even its got a tiny pin hole to allow to bleed air in or out of the system. Lift pump is not say fuel tight so once the ignition is off the sliding vanes can move to allow air to enter.. So like I said you'll have to back check the fuel system by adding a little bit of air pressure (1-2 PSI) to the fuel tank and having a friend look around the fuel line for wet spots or leaks.

No it didn't hurt nor was I in any danger... I used tie straps to balance the trans and keep it from get out of wack. So once it was down I loosen the strap and slid the trans back to do the clutch and this what the jack look like holding the trans and transfer...

Heck he's got a little go cart for hauling around Boise... Like myself I'm close to 23K miles a year and Mom's 96 is like 3-5K a year...

We John you seem to of done well getting this far... sorry I've not been around much to help between company and running out to chase firewood... But get those cooler line sealed up and you should be fine...

I figured that was coming... Dodge wants way too much for fuel senders...

That's how I got mine done I had Bob Wagner send me his personal Smarty and I got to play with it for a couple of weeks and the just return to stock and mailed it back. Thing is either way is safe going to the dealer or using the smarty... If you can't get a smarty then got to this page... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/tsb18-019-01.htm Print it out and then take it to you local dealer they can follow the step by step instructions to enable the high idle. Just follow from #7 down...