Mopar1973Man

I'm not sure... But there has been talk in the past that the VP44 has a small vane pump in it but how much pressure, suction, volume it capable of producing is totally unknown to me. But from what I've learned so far is if the truck is coasting then the injectors shutdown (VP44 doesn't produce line pressure). So this means that the overflow valve must be venting... But theat hard to measure return volume while cruising down the road... So maybe in your case the overflow valve is a bit weak opening at 13 PSI and venting back to the tank... Or that little vane pump is giving it that extra 1 PSI to open the overflow valve... (speculation)

I got to admit that $20+ a quart is hard to deal with... I know the last 2 quarts I bought are from the dealer at $23 a quart... That hurts the pocket knowing its 1 gallon needed for a change. I know I'm due for a change of fluid too...So if your willing to be a test subject... Go for it... I'm about ready to try something else too... I just don't think I can swallow $23 to $25 buck a quart...

Being my BHAF filter has most of its life in dirt road and never had a Outwears till someone gave it to me... I've got a filter minder plugged in the head of the filter and its not moving but I do test the filter minder for function. 6 years and 112K miles and only owned a Outwears for 1 year... Even at that rate I paided $40 bucks for the filter so thats $6.66 per year for the filter. Not bad and I got a new one sitting on the shelf waiting for that other filter to finally fail and plug up... I got Taz hooked up with a BHAF on his 92 and we found out because of it pure huge size it not able to hold dust on the media for long. It tends to shake off the excess dust on a bumpy road like head up to the Ranch on a 6 mile climb on a 1 lane dirt forestry road... His now is 2 years old and still looking good...

That a quick easy fix... Another thing you could do is mix a thick batch of JB weld and put a thin pile right there... I doubt that will wear away as quick as the duct tape but still soft enough not to wear the switch tip...

Been there done that...

I never thought about that... But yeah its true they are always dry...

Thanks I feel the love... Yeah your about right... No error codes... Just a hung screen (dead pedal) and then Bam! - DEAD HARD DRIVE (VP44)... All BIOS report is the hard drive is BAD and need replacment (CHECK ENGINE LIGHT)... Seagate must be getting hints from Bosch...

Ahhh... I'm covered there... My main drives are twin 250 GBs... The first 250 GB is split to smaller partitions and the second drive is a mirror image of the first drive... So my main stuff is fine...

Actually I did lose much for data but it was my big work drive that I toss everything into to work on then store on the the smaller partitions... So actually I didn't loose much just lost a nice large work area... As for life span it just past it warranty and died... Typical huh...

I think I mis understood the last post... I was assuming coasting/deceleration conditions with <14 PSI of fuel pressure... (re-posted to clarify). If you coasting down hill or decelerating... There is no fuel pumped to the injectors if there was you would be accelerating or maintaining road speed. The injection pump is literally turned off. So there would be zero return from the line at the back of the head. The only time fuel returns from the rail is when the injectors are fired (bleed off pressure) is drained to the return rail. This small bit fuel is the remain of fired injectors and bleeds off the line pressure and drain into the return line. So since coasting/deceleration tends to shutdown the VP44 from firing the injectors that means that return rail will be dry and if the fuel pressure is below 14 PSI so is the overflow return line. (except what will ooze out of the 0.16" inch bleed hole...)

First thing is first... There is no way to reset the computers by disconnecting the batteries. Now that you have disconnected the batteriews you lost the APPS calibaration that the ONLY thing that resets with the batteries disconnected. Now for the ABS/BRAKE light problem. The is 3 speed sensors in the ABS system... Now if the rear sensor is damaged the speedometer doesn't work. If the speedometer is working then its one of the front 2 sensors mounted behind the rotors on the wheel bearings (4WD) To reset the ABS computer repair the problem and go drive the truck... If the problem is corrected the lights will go off with road speed.

Nothing... There would be technically no flow... The injectors are not firing so there is no return... And the Overflow valve is closed... So the only fuel that would be moving is what little fuel there is bleeding past the 0.016 size hole in the overflow valve. Maybe that why I opt for the 15-17 range of pressure most of the time... At least then I know the overlfow valve is open...

At that rate I consider myself lucky to only see 1-2 PSI drop from idle to WOT... But running a AD 150 with 1/2" lines... (Arrgh!) So many thoughts running through my head about this but no way to test this out... :banghead:

If you had a electric fuel pressure gauge and 2 senders you could hook up a sender in both port (with needle valves to protect the senders). But then wire the senders to a toggle switch in the pod (or anywhere you wanted) then be able to toggle between the 2 sender and see how plugged up your filter was. If the fuel pressure drop was more than 5 PSI then its time for a filter. But remembering the minimum pressure... Just a crazy dumb idea... But goes along with AH64ID...

Yeah the question is though how much pressure drop between idle and WOT say at 300,400,500,or 600 HP... Then compare to 1/2" line... That would be the way to show it... But that would take a bunch of truck all rig with the very same fuel system and different mods... Bit tough to pull off...:banghead:

good guess is that the fuel line being 3/8 of inch gave less to modify in the way of fuel system where 1/2" line is only good if you got 1/2" pickup to 1/2" plumbing throughout the system... But that just a simple guess though...

Dang it... Working right along this morning and without warning the computer hung itself which is really weird... But Hit the reset button and the BIOS instantly reported that my 4th hard drive 500 GB just tripped SMART and has gone BAD. So I tried to deal with it and test the drive but when I got it booted up the drive is gone... :cry:So now I got to call me dealer and see about getting a new drive...

Duh?!?! Climate change... :ahhh:Climate is always changing that why they call it "Seasons!" Spring, Summer Fall, Winter... :banghead:I wish they quit trying to BS a BS artist...

OMG... But it would work...

Well the shop that did mine had a collar that went over the injector and tighten up against the fuel feed... But still in all if there is a deformation in the injector it should leak on the test bench too... Because the test bench simlates the connector tube as well... If there is cracks in the body too it should show up...

Like myself climbing some of the dirt forestry roads at 8-12% grade you can get some good pyro temps. I typical hit my wall at about 1,000*F worth of pyro climbing grades. Hovering at about 18-22 PSI of boost. I've maxed out a few times at 1,400*F but just short burst passing people. Typical highway cruising empty I'm floating 450-600*F worth of pyro at about 1-2 PSI of boost at about 55 MPH... But kick it up to 65 MPH the pyro floats 700-800*F and boost is about 6-7 PSI now... Just for 10 MPH gain...

Darn you all... I've been enjoying my mild winter now this morning its 28*F outside and frosty... Come on global warming (Spring!)

Might try with the vendors here... Several good options...

The pressure from the filter to the VP44 through all the lines will be the same... If you mount the gauge on the VP44, or the output of the filter... All the pressure should be the same...

Should come to Idaho... We had a very mild winter... Little snow but temps floating in the 32*F-48*F for the past 2 months... But you guys are getting what we had last winter...