Mopar1973Man

Yeah you can add URL it just weird trick to do. You have to copy the URL in the address bar. For my Droid its hold your finger on the URL it will pop open and 2 card icon shows. Tap that. Now go back to the website long tap and PASTE should show up. Then tap and the link is pasted into the post.

Ok. I did the ground wire mod for my landlord Cummins Truck. He had a bad alternator (Bosch) which was crossing the 60mV line with AC noise. After the the mod it dropped to 10 to 12mV AC. Typically it does make a huge improvement. Next day it pops the breaker. I assumed the diodes are bad enough to blow the breaker from shorting diode. Changed to a brand NEW Denso alternator. Drove the truck to my house and the alternator was hot and pop the 150A breaker again. At this point its my breaker from my truck in place and it popped again which my truck has never popped the breaker. Found out a sticking grid heater relay could produce a enough current draw at 95A to overheat the intake horn (clue) which melted the back of the vacuum valve for his exhaust brake. So I unhooked the grid heaters from the drive side battery problem stopped. The other clue was the truck ran the batteries dead a few times which is weird to have him complain about dead batteries? Now with the grid heater out of the loop seems like the problem is resolved pointing out the grids heater have possibly been sticking. Remember boys and girls grid heaters on post heat do NOT light any thing on the dash showing the grid heaters are running other than the batter voltage is typically low. In this case the volt gauge would hang low for several minutes before popping back up.

Quadzilla hijacks the CANBus signal and tells the VP44 to take this priority message and pass this along and disregard the previous message. Friendly reminder... You can remove the batteries from the truck for 10 years and all the error codes and issues, will be still in memory when you hook it back up later. Lost of battery power will not lose any programming, error codes, or drivability issues. Ive done many videos and still have one where I disconnected the batteries for over a period of time and hooked back up and all the stored error codes remains. If you want to reboot all computers turn the ignition key OFF for 15 seconds and then start as normal. All computer do a fresh reboot. Disconnecting the batteries does nothing. The only thing it will lose is APPS calibration thats it.

Not sure... I'm going to look into this and see if it continues myself I gave up a while back on the gallon display.

Talk to @pepsi71ocean he did a full brake line kit if I recall correctly it was stainless steel lines?

Ditch that isolator... Direct plumb that ot the gauge and put a cutoff valve if there is a leak. Isolators will cause gauge accuracy issues. I ran direct plumbed to a mechanical gauge for 10+ years. Now I've switch to ISSPro EV2 electronic gauges. Comes with USB programmable warning lights, programmable backlight you can match the brightness to the cluster, and programmable needle speed, then programmable aux relay to switch devices on or off like cooling fans.

Depends. TorqueFlite 727 transmission No, Its a 3 speed with no lock up. This was renamed to 37RH There was a 4 speed with lock up. A518 model. Which this came to be renamed 46RE later in life. Then the 47RE came out in 1994. This was called A618 transmission (old name).

The thing that worries me is most of the trucks I've been working out are just plain nasty inside. Spilled coffee and food on the carpets. Then to have to drive them in the shop, etc. Your customer could be sick. I don't have the means to sanitize a vehicle before getting into it. I'm always touching my face especially working under the vehicle on the two post. Just need to kick a bit of dirt in my eyes or face.

https://www.obdlink.com/ This is the one he's talking about...

I tend to agree there is a injector issue. It should never smoke if injectors and ECM software is working correctly (stock form). Might check for any error codes possibly...

Most likely a connection issues between the column shift button and the PCM. That is all part of the PCM circuit. The button only makes it drop 4th gear. The lockup is controlled by the PCM and its software.

Please when you do get it done make the article that would be a huge help.

I wish someone could make a article about this. I've seen several people with older exhaust brakes and would be nice to build a simple controller for these older units using the ECM trigger like the old school Jacobs Brakes.

Once lockup occurs there should be zero. (3rd OD OFF and 4th gear).

Be Careful, it might not energize the wire till there is tach signal. Being the transmission control relay is on the same blue wire for the alternator field, which typically is not energized till tach signal (engine running).

Bingo. Exactly what I thought... Thanks @Dynamic...

I've always just torqued to 120 foot pounds wet or dry. 410k miles and still going no issues.

DRBIII tool is about the only thing I know of that reads the ABS codes. Even my 500 dollar Innova Code reader with both SRS and ABS can't read the Dodge ABS.

Not even a 12 volt system but a 5 volt system on the APPS. Typically 3.5 and higher will trip a code P0123.

Getting slower out here. I'm use to getting up at 6am and watching the truckers stream through the canyon in the early morning hours. No school bus, no truckers, highway is quiet. Work wise I'm now at the point of running out. I've got a few nickle and dime jobs but Not really worth jumping out the door today for. As for safety sake if Eileen get any medical problems or appointments I'm geared up with the RV. All the bedding is washed and cleaned. Reloaded with propane. Now to split up some food supplies for the RV and pack our clothes. My yard is big enough if others want to escape the city could come out here and camp on the lawn. Barely 33*F here but its an option.

Finally in Riggins, ID turned into mad dash to get supplies now. Local grocery store is being raided fairly heavy. Limits placed on food and supplies. The local Chevron station that does repairs and tires is close till further notice. Most of the motels in town are empty. Restaurants are empty as well. I'm now going to be out of work and not looking for new job till things blow over a bit better.

Anytime the TQ conv is unlocked. It doesn't even have to work hard to make it hot. An empty truck traveling speed limit of 15 MPH up grade is enough to over heat a transmission. This is really common out here with the steep climbs and automatic owners for all big 3 truck Ford, Dodge and Chevy. Hence why I having all the luck of changing transmissions.

Kick in Riggins ID and New Meadows ID. Pollock is a smudge on the map not even a town. That would be like calling up Lucile ID also another non existent town.

I never liked 5th wheels for the 25% pin weight they come with. I always loved bumper pulls you can have bigger RV but only 15% hitch weight and do fine. 5th wheels typically require a full one ton truck to do properly. Yeah @dripley should be on 1 ton truck for his too. Last time I scaled out I was -60 pounds from GVWR on the truck then only -3.000 pounds from GCWR. As for the trailer it was -500 pounds from GVWR.