Mopar1973Man

@Quadzilla Power All the downloads here are dated 2018 we could use a update here on the site... I'm wanting to update but there isn't any updates to download. Released February 7, 2018 -

I normally sert my EGT cool down to temperature and then set it for 350*F. This will shut off normally with city driving. Then if you highway then there is a few second delay but it will cool down and shutoff on its own.

Can't... If the WTS light is damaged or burnt out it will set a P0381 code. Being there is nothing said about P0381 code I would say the ECM is damaged.

All provided with the studs. 3 step torque. Final is 125 foot pounds.

W-T ground wire mod... This will fix that problem. Then here is the PCM protection fuse mod to protect your PCM from damage...

Yup.. Same here I did the head pull myself and freighted it to a machine shop in Caldwell, ID. Then he did his magic in about 3 days. The head studs and gaskets came from DAP. Even got checked for cracks.

Boost leak? I've seen boost leaks create all kinds of whistles, whines and noises...

Yes. Any dealer can flash it back to VIN factory software. Just only about 5% of the dealers and tech know much about the DRBIII tool and most have not been trained so, they just claim it can't be done because of lack of knowledge. If Smarty tuner can modify it then a dealer DRBIII can restore it too. To this day my local dealer says its impossible for high idle software to be flash on my ECM...

Low... Mine was just near $2,000 for valve guides, valve seals, lap the valves, etc. Deck the head, head gasket (Felpro) and ARP 425 studs.

Yeah I know I've changed a few of those and they are a PITA to do. Deleted truck are like the old school days for sure. Free revving the engine is not a valid test. The timing is too retard for a free revving event. You have to drive the truck to test.

Simple way to figure this out. Go to the taillights and pull the driver side tail light out and see what colors the backup light is. This color should travel back to the BCM for the control of the light.

Valve stem extension have left me with flat tires in the past I don't suggest them at all. Best off having the proper air chucks and tire pressure gauge. I've had objects push through and rip the hose, etc. Then have the clamp on style come loose and cut a tire.

VP44 is capable of minimum of 4,500 PSI at an idle to well over 20,000 PSI at WOT. If the VP44 PSG is damaged the the fuel pin will not be pulled enough to build pressure. Our VP44 pumps have 3 pistons working in a gang and pump at the same time to the distributor position its currently point at.

Dealer is fibbing... All you need is a DRBII tool and do a full flash. You can try another dealer than is experienced in re-flashing ECM's or you could contact one of the ECM rebuilders in our list. Auto Computer Specialist has been a good company to work with. That is my project for today I've got to fix a flash on a 6.7L Ram that is experiencing issues as well.

Remember increasing boost pressure will NOT increase power. Only increasing fuel will you increase power and boost both.

Our times are radically changing. Like us now I've got a new 50 inch TV here and just using Hulu and other internet providers feeds. Nice for entertainment now and then but as for information its way better to hunt the internet for the truth of whats going on. Even then the internet is a buzz on the surface with all the misinformation floating about. I don't really care for any of the new media being its all fake and misleading most of the time. But it nice to see what the next lie being fed to the sheeple out there.

Economy brake pads here... (180k to 200k) Then my front rotors lasted for 350k miles. Rear rotors where replaced sooner for the top hat brake (parking brake was worn) at about 300k miles. Majority of my stopping is done with my exhaust brake. I only use the service brakes to hold position like on a slope. I typically get 180k to 200k miles from brake pads. I typically only use service brakes below 25 MPH at this point exhaust brake is worthless. Economy pads do not eat up the rotors like premium pads or ceramic pads. Automatics you have to think way ahead and gear down accordingly to make it work and also a good torque converter controller. This also requires the transmission to be able to lock up in all forward gears for a exhaust brake to work. Typically the stock transmission will only lock in 3rd and 4th gear. This put more braking effort on the service brake than the exhaust brake.

Your the owner of the forum... Start posting...

I had a set of those and they sucked.

You got to join the different clubs. Once in then the posting can start.

Like myself I've got a set of stand single bulb lights in my 1996 Dodge and the last trip home sucked. Very narrow band of light vertically maybe 5 to 6 feet. Only covering just the highway on hi beam. Lo beam is worse. I need to find a quality LED for that truck being its not going to be kept as a primary vehicle. Not worth it for HID's.

So far never had a bad brake hose on ANY vehicle I've owned. But I've always changed my brake fluid at 30k miles.

Being that Cummins is using 4 different thermostats I guess not being they went all over the map. Being Motorad was a small neck and low flow, then my OEM was a different as well, etc. We can compare all kind of OEM themostats and they are all different but one thing... Opening temperature. Still there is only a few companies that produce thermostats. Sure not worth $65 bucks for... Bingo... LOL... I got charged $80 dollars for a Mopar OEM Fuel filter. Why I told the dealer to stuff it. I can buy Fleetguard for $13 dollars. Just like buying a $65 dollar thermostat from Cummins that splits apart in under 100 miles. True. But they have been very stable and failure free in my usage. Remember I service more than just Dodge. Ford and Chevy as well as foreign cars too. Subaru, etc. Remember I speak for wider range than just a 3rd Gen Cummins. There is much bigger world than just a 3rd Gen Cummins... Again I service a very wider range a of vehicles.

Might check out my tune. I'm getting pretty solid 19 MPG in the dead of winter.

Only happens when you don't change your brake fluid every 30k miles. If the brake fluid is dark or black till to dump and refill. This means pulling the calipers and cleaning the debris out of the bottom of then too so it doesn't bind up the pistons. Hence the OP problem dragging brakes... 1st was 185k miles. Second set I got 200k miles out of. Exhaust brakes are wonderful thing. I can drive most of my 125 mile trip to Ontario and never touch the brakes unless I need to stop. Slowing down is done all on the exhuast brake and service brake is only used at 20 MPH and lower.