Mopar1973Man

Too high starting pressure needs to be 12 PSI down to 7 PSI.

Hes got pre and post EGT's.

In the this case the cam sensor got replace that stopped the P0341 code. Then the grid heaters remain unplugged for now and still the circuit breaker is holding. My new one is here on my desk waiting to be installed. Oh just for teaser... Cam sensor on a 2001 truck can be changed in under 30 minutes.

Up here in central Idaho isn't too bad. Most have started self isolation at home way before the press release of the notification. Highway past the house is quiet most of the time. Already have cases of Corona in Riggins and in McCall already.

It will help it. Less restriction, easier flow. DDRP are not all that hot of a fuel pump. Typically mount in the factory position.

VOID stickers typically around the VP44 plug, usually removed or torn after replacement.

I always suggest 1/2 inch lines better pressure stability. As most of us tend to upgrade power a bit more and add tuners for performance and/or economy reasons.

Funny, @Wet Vette little Hyundai whips the 1996 Dodge no prob... 2002 not happening...

Just getting broke in... As for the VP44 pumps they will go 250k miles on average. You do need to upgrade the fuel system. 14 to 20 PSI is good fuel pressure.

Module Master https://www.google.com/search?q=module+master 2006 S Main St, Moscow, ID 83843 (208) 892-0764 Comes with 5 year warranty and all parts used are upgrades. All for $130... https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/brakes/abs-modules/abs-kh-dodge/

Yes just last week a EMT was traveling too fast to respond to a call and wound up rolling her vehicle off a mountain road. She survive with injuries. Out here you cannot just rely on service brakes to survive 7 to 15 miles of downgrades. Most of the dirt roads could be in the 6 to 12% grades on average. There are some roads 16% and greater and most are not marked. No matter what its super nice to come down a grade without touching the brake pedal and keeping your brakes cool till you need them. Not hoping for the already hot and smoking brakes to stop you in time. @JAG1 found out that without a exhaust brake it will heat the grease up in the front wheel bearing and shortly afterward the wheel bearings fail.

Bingo!

Always rev match my gears to lighten the load on syncros. Easy peasy... Try the bigger grades like 16% grades in the back country. The 6% and 7% grades are child's play. No riding the brake pedal in any of my videos. 90% of all stopping is done with exhaust brake. Even fully loaded with firewood, or hauling my RV trailer which GVWR is 8,500 pounds.

When the alternator field shorts to ground on the blue field wire it will completely burn up the PCM. This will cost you about 750 dollars to replace. Not to mention it burns up the voltage regulator completely in the PCM. The fuse will protect the PCM from any damage from bad alternators or wiring faults. Being the master fuse for the PCM is 20 Amp and the circuit board will not tolerate the 20 Amps on the PCB tracers at a dead short. The 5 Amp fuse blows early enough to prevent damage and been proven by another member that had a alternator short out and blow the field fuse. The fiberglass circuit board is gone there is nothing to repair.

Yes, more than enough time. No difference. I will not engage unless you seriously lagging on throwing a gear but with the exhaust brake on it just going to hiss a bit and not impact the shift. You can tap the throttle once and reset the 3 second delay. I've got a few other tricks. I've got a toggle switch on the stick. So when I'm traveling a grade I can let the truck coast and time to elapse the 3 seconds. Then when I toggle the switch its instant on exhaust brake then. Still to this day I'm doing brake pads replacements evey 180k to 200k miles. I use the exhaust brake for 90% of all stopping power. The service brakes (pedal) is only used below 25 MPH.

Beyond that you'll need to have the ECM repaired if the flashing continues I would contact Auto Computer Specialist in Florida.

W-T ground wire mod and the Alternator protection fuse is my suggested starting spot.

Even the older generation is being just as bad too. I've got people coming to me and saying "Everyone is going to get one way or another why bother trying."

There was a guy a while back that did a rocker panel repair and cab corner repair. He explained it all on the website here. I'll try to find it.

Like myself I just reduced the rolling resistance and don't need a deeper pan, or strengthening. My little 46RE @Dynamic built it 4 or 5 years ago. Since I swapped up tires to 215's on the 1996 Dodge 1500 now this little truck has some pretty low transmission temp even on the hot line. Typically float about 140*F. The only time I seen high temps was towing up a residential 8% to 12% grade to public lands to ride my ATV. Then we got it up in the 230 to 240*F realm. Speed limit is 15 MPH up this road. Can't get lock up so it was on the torque converter till I got parked just past start of forestry. I left the truck in neutral and idling and the temp fell off quickly after eating half a sandwich. Then shut down the engine. This only happened once... I plan on changing the ATF+4 and the filter really soon. This is where a manual transmission shines. Because there is no slipping or torque converter to heat up.

I'm going to post up what I see as well. I know Riggins, ID was still in the 3.xx9 realm for fuel.

The auto adjuster of the drum brakes as you face the axle face the ratchet arm pulls up. So to reverse this and look at the backing plate side should be down. Hence what I said a bit ago.

That is the problem with people today we all got narrow sighted and thinking only of our own families which is fine but also think about how your choices affect other families. When we go shopping we don't spend every last penny on TP clearing a shelf off. Nope, we get what we need for the 1 week or 2 weeks most. 2 cans of this, 2 cans of that, 2 boxes of this and 2 boxes of that. I've got faith that Good Lord will provide us with what we need. In the same token you have to be sensible as well and not hoard products of any type. If you have extra anything share with other around you. Like yesterday knowing we were heading towards Lewiston I called my neighbors which are in their 80's. Asked if they needed anything? Like most of my energy is spent here at home making space for other to possibly escape the cities and craziness if needed. Like Eileen has 5 siblings, then 3 grand kids too. If anyone wants to take a chunk of yard to park a RV you more than welcome. The only thing I ask is everyone contributes to supplies and work. I'll share what resources I've got as well. At this time I might not have a lot of food but I'll be still tending the website and turning wrenches even if the light go out. I'll share my bit of light, shelter, food and my knowledge so you can keep going!

@Me78569 took a 4th gen VGT turbo and built his own controller. He's got the articles for this mod. He even has the software code for the controller. He's the best guy to talk to about VGT turbos.

Mine is just hooked to the PDC where the red lead from the battery comes from the driver side battery to the PDC. Right on that stud is totally safe for the AirDog and the terminals will not rot. That is also a good spot if you have done the W-T ground wire mod. If not do not use this side again if the fuse blows it will wipe out the fuel pump motor.