Mopar1973Man

We can change sensor but it not going to change the temp. I can measure the temp with my IR gun and still be the same. I cant make it hotter being the oil temp is still the oil temp.

Timbos APPS is all based on angle. That simple there is no electronics. As you can see there is just the contact strip. Voltage is only use to see if you cross the boundary from idle to throttling and then you unscrewing the stop pin till you come back to rest in the idle zone.

Welcome to the family.

Sorry. I don't know what to say. I've check it many times and it correct. Remember 24V are NOT CR engines. Might hold true for your old truck... Umm the oil is flowing through that port. That is true oil temp from the oil cooler. If not my turbo would sure hate life if the oil isn't moving.

250 miles daily trips. This is my standard from New Meadows to Ontario, OR runs and back home. Photo is dated 12/31/2019 (Tuesday)

It does. I can crank up the timing to make it hotter but... MPG drops out badly.. 15 to 17 MPG. Outside temps in the 10 to 20*F up here. Thermostat is closed and holding barely 192 to 195*F. The lower coolant hose is COLD to the touch. More timing the hotter the oil temp. More retard the cooler the oil tremp. This photo was a older tune my recent tune is right at 20* at 2k RPM. Remember Trans is the engine oil.

Switch back bulbs give off more light than a amber bulb. Like mine cast light for almost 200 feet very bright. Very attention grabbing with the white markers then when your turn signal used its even wicked bright amber flashing bulb. Gives that modern look of the halo driving light or as some are call it daytime driving lights. During daylight hours I typically just run my marker lights.

NAPA part number is listed in both of my articles on LED marker lights. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NF_EP27L

Efficiency... Less heat lost the more power to the ground. All about the Quadzilla timing. Oil cooler port on the oil filter housing. Extra temp sender comes with the Quad which is labeled Trans Temp but I know it Engine oil temp. I'm running about 20* at 2k RPMs.

Actually this particular should trip P0236 boost too high too long.

There is... Remove the box clear any codes. This test drive for 10 miles or so. If and codes are set then the map sensor is bad. If not the boost cooler is bad. Another way is to replace the map sensor and see if there is change. But map sensors are spendy.

He's going to love them...

180*F alternate cooler thermostat. I tried it as a test its fine in the summer time but doesn't work very well in the winter time gets too cool. 190*F is the stock temp. You can install 6.7L 200*F thermostat and it will fit just fine and produce serious vent temperatures in the cab. It will strip the ice from a windshield rather quickly.

Morimoto HID's... I cast light at least 40 to 50 feet in either ditch along a 2 lane highway. On hi beam I can cast light as tall as 50 feet.

I clear 1,200 miles a week. Yup I spend a good part of my morning in the dark. Like I'll be leaving here at 7:15am and heading south. I wont see good light till about council, ID. Then on my way home typically its just getting dark about the time I'm heading past Council, ID north. LEDs do work there is several seal beam solutions in LEDs. It's the dumb Ford guys that retro fit the LEDs and assume the pattern is still good without adjusting. Typically they end up with the cab full lit up from my Morimoto D2S HIDs.

Take some summer biodiesel and then stuff it in the freezer over night see if it turns solid. Then add the product to the frozen fuel then return to the freezer and see if it does the job.

Problem is the stock housing tend to be poor pattern of light and requires a full readjustment with fresh LEDs they can be made to to work as a few here have managed to do. It is not just change bulbs and roll... You MUST readjust both headlights after the change to LEDs prevent blinding people.

All I can say is it will still suck. I've got these in my 1996 Dodge now with SilverStar bulbs and very poor lighting. I'm going to be playing with LED bulbs next to see if I can improve this. Still in all a Silverstar bulb is roughly 860 lumens and the LED's are 3,000 lumens. Just for fun... PIAA LED driving lights... These are brighter than my Morimoto D2S lights. http://www.piaa.com/store/p/187-LP530-3-5-LED-Driving-Light-Kit.aspx

I'm so glad to be back to driving my Cummins with my Morimoto D2S lens. Comparing now between 1996 with Silverstar Halogens with crystal clear lens and the Morimoto D2S is huge difference. Morimoto D2S cast light much wider and farther down the road. The SilverStar halogens are scattered and very dim even on hi beam. So funny people will spend thousands for turbos, injectors, injection pumps. But when it comes to lighting. OMG!!! spend some serious money on lighting that just too expensive for lighting. Yup, it's true there is $1,000.00 worth of light on my 2002 Cummins. I'm still learning you can spend the 70 bucks for new headlights and fancy Silverstar bulbs. Lighting still sucks and weak at best. You can spend the money on sport lights with four SilverStar bulbs and relay kits and still suck for lighting. There is nothing in the halogen playground that will even come close to a HID lighting period. My 1996 is going to get a change up... Driving at night with that truck is dangerous.

MAP sensor issue. It's in defueling mode currently with the boost at limit. Quadzilla does not read any codes. You have to plug in your own OBDII coder reader in the dash.

When we had ol' @cajflynn running here on the site he was changing oil every 20k miles. Chevron Delo 15w-40 Fleetguard Filter Net sum of this is a 53 block engine that made it to 1.3 million miles. Then another one is @dorkweed that ran a MotorGuard bypass filter. He started with a oil change and ran... Supertech Diesel Oil 15w-40 Fleetguard Motoguard bypass filter (toilet paper) He ran 84k miles on a single oil change. Testing every 7k miles with Blackstone and replaced the filters every 7k and topped off. I post this just for educational purpose. It up to the reader to contact and chat with these people since they are to currently active here. They are still members and will respond if asked.

Like myself I running a 190*F thermostat. Typically with winter temperatures I run about 160*F to 170*F in oil temperature. 2nd Gen vs. 4th gen for oil coolers are way different layouts on how the coolant flow is routed over the oil cooler and 4th gens have a much better coolant flow over the oil cooler and can easily run a 200*F year round. 2nd gen isn't as good but still very functional system. Anything below 180*F is going to suffer for sure. I've done my own testing with coolant temps. Being you need heat to make the fuel change from liquid to vapor and then ignite and burn completely. So between coolant and IAT these two numbers will either improve the ignition quality or not.

You can replace most likely easier than all the buffing and sanding. https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Assembly-Replacement-Housing-Passenger/dp/B07FJVPWYF/

Now that's funny chit man...

Actually just need to replace them with better clear housings. The vents on the housing might be faulty or there is a leak in the lens face, or even a possible crack. I would just replace them if there is moisture leaking in.