Mopar1973Man

We had too. Being than less than 1% were donating and wasn't fair. more than 99% were riding on others for free. Now everyone pitches in a small amount making it fair for everyone. This means the diodes in the alternator are failing. People think the fuse is for a run away alternator and stops the alternator from runaway conditions of overcharging. Actually the fuse is too big for stock alternator to blow even at 100% field and loading of 195 amps of grid heaters. When the fuse blows this test me the diode(s) have shorted to ground and blown the fuse. I would highly suggest taking the alternator off and having it benched for AC noise issues. The 145A fuse was blown. Again the diodes are shorting out causing the heat issue. Heat is a sign of high current going where it should not go typically finding a path to ground.

Just the blend door. I'm talking the other doors like vent, def, floor, recir, outside air.

You could cap out the vacuum pump and see if the oil blow by is stopped.

Watch your engine load and fuel numbers. Engine load is 0 to 100% number. Your commanded fuel number is the 0 to 4095. Timing wise spread your timing out. Do a +4 between. Might even think about +4.5. I'm currently running a +4 spread. Now that winter fuels are leaving I've got to start inching back up in timing. I'm going to have to download my summer tune soon.

Not really set up for imgur for video. But Youtube is a better option.

Yup. No problem. 2003 and up are all electric stepper motors. 2002 and down is all vacuum driven.

Actually he's in New Meadows.

Looks like its idling high. Injectors might be tired too.

One of the perks of renting this shop.

Instantly you will gain boost with any gains of fuel. Turbo is ran by the expanding gases from the exhaust. More fuel means more boost. Not clean no. Tuner should be first really then any injector from there can be tuned out and made clean. You can roll back the fuel on the low boost cases and then pour the fuel on once the turbo spools.

Last trip to Boise with winter fuel was 21 MPG. Stuffing my transmission today.

Fixed...

Need coffee...

Hua. ??? No deleting here let me go look. I now remember there was a post with a comment I hit quote I thought... If I did sorry. I might of tap the edit link by accident. Total sorry. Being I'm bouncing between threads with you.

Top gear I'm in by 45 MPH. Puts me at 66 MPH at perfect 2,000 RPM. Use that Quadzilla watch the engine load numbers. This is how much fuel is applied. Now change things like tires and watch. What you want is ultimately the lowest engine load at cruise state. As you reduce engine load then the EGT's follow too they will go down as well. Tuning it just part of it, the other half is to shed your drag, rolling resistance, rotational mass. Takes time to hunt down these small parasitic losses.

Gearing, my man, gearing... I'm not running oversized tires but 245's stock size. This compared to 265's is going to drop me from 3.55 to 3.69. This translates to easier launching heavy loads. cooler EGT's, and less fuel used to keep rolling. Like my other post it reduces the engine load (applied fuel). Lower the engine load less fuel, means less heat!. I've ran my HX35W for quite a long time hauling with both Edge Comp and Quadzilla now. Like the last 3 years I've ran the HX35/40 hybrid. Yes. You can pull fuel below rat as well. Any fuel number below 100% is going to cut that much off. ECM-> requesting 75% fuel (3,071) -> Quadzilla 90% (2,763) -> 67% fuel given. The numbers are the fuel command numbers Quadzilla feeds to the VP44. It a scale of 0 to 4,095. Or engine load 0 to 100%.

Engine load is much lower than most. Typically empty truck is about 15 to 17% at 65 MPH. Even at 80 MPH at 2,500 RPM still only 20% to 22% engine load. Gear ratio is my good friend. Net gain is less fuel spent to keep rolling. Still doing long haul back and forth handling thing like medical appointments in Boise, picking up parts, getting Eileen's storage brought home, etc. Being 500 RPM lower would kill my city MPG performance because launch takes a lot of fuel from light to light. Give you an idea I'm in 4th gear 1:1 direct by 25 to 30 MPH. This would be your 3rd gear for that 47RE.

Check for vacuum leaks. Vacuum pump will pump excessive air in the crankcase which will push oil out the breather. MAP sensor is junk. The VP44 is still usable but no longer can adjust timing. Hence why the blue smoke. Then it could cause starting issues because timing is sticking and improper timing can make it hard starting too. Remember fuel prime issue typically do NOT leak outwards. They tend to constantly suck air in. What you have to do with a tank that is like a 1/4 to 1/2 then get the truck running so the fuel system is completely primed. Then shut down and have a person pressurize the fuel tank then a second person to crawl around now looking for leaks. The air pressure should help and push fuel out the leak. Weird ones that just hard to catch banjo on the back of the head, crossover tube o-rings, return tee at the rear of the head. Even a shop vacuum in blow mode works pretty good.

Just do it. I've done plenty of heavy hauls with my truck from firewood, tractors, backhoes, hay, etc. I plan on being hitched up to my RV in the next week. I typically cross the scale with the RV somewhere at 17,000 GCW pounds loaded. The hay haul was about 18,000 just the trailer. Quadzilla did really good for the early beta testing days.

I can say when your doing long haul like I was even just shaving off 1 to 2 cents per mile made a huge saving in fuel when you figured 1.000 miles a week. That roughly 10 to 20 dollars per week or 40 to 80 dollar a month off the fuel bill. Currently I'm right at 16 cents a mile for my truck. Cool doesn't even enter my brain at all. Personally, I don't care if it looks cool, for my truck. When you been on a tight budget and still am you look for every way to keep funds in your wallet than pouring them in a fuel tank, just because it looks cool. I looked at the ratio it produces and the RPM's and which the cruise state for 65 MPH lands since that is common speed for my state. Then figure land, terrain, etc. Lower gearing reduces engine load (another savings). Still to this day I'm still making a circle track to Boise and back for medical appointments, picking parts, and going just food shopping.

Size of the turbo parts... Compressor wheel in mm / Turbine wheel in mm / Exhaust housing in cm2 Stock HX35 is 54mm / 60mm / 12cm2 or for short 54/60/12

Being a bad cell is a permanent short. This short continues to bleed amperage, turning into heat in the battery or batteries if both have issues then the constant load will increase on the alternator load only to create heat in a bad battery. Bigger alternator will not fix this problem but remove the parasitic load of the bad cells and the heat and alternator problem will go away.

True. Stock turbo (54/60/12) and 150 HP injectors can be made to run with the Quadzilla. I've done it. Then upgraded to the Hybrid (60/60/12) which mildly reduced EGT's and gave a bit more power. I was still towing my 8,000 pound 31 foot RV on the stock turbo.

Yup, you need your vacuum pump on the engine twist to make vacuum to pull the doors open and closed. Yup, defaults to defroster...

She is going home today... The doctor are telling us her pancreas has just burned out and quit. I'm not going to just give up yet. She will be making appointment with GI doctor in Boise and dig deeper into this. In the meantime I've got a grand loop to make today. Heading down US95 pick up Mom (ashes & death certificate), CBASS (salvage yard), Staples (get my laptop fixed), All parts broker (salvage yard), Durobilt (alternators and starters to rebuild), then Weller truck (my transmission), then back up Idaho 55 to pick up @Wet Vette from the hospital then home. about 360 mile trip today. Ugh!