Mopar1973Man

A/C relay might be bad. Check the blue wire on the field it should have +12V after tach signal is sensed (engine running).

Never had a cooling problems... Like right now with morning temperatures iat 49*F outside my normal transmission temp will be 130*F roughly. Even on a 100*F outside when the 5th gear disappeared it was only 160 to 170*F trans temp. Even Abe at Weller Truck said that was on the cool side.

Most likely likely little change. The thickness would have to change to gain something. Like in the pass I use to have a stock 2 row radiator in the 1973 Dodge Charger and upgraded to 3 row radiator and it got thicker in the radiator face. If the tubes just get smaller and 3 of them now much is going to be gained.

Not a problem.

Got your goat... Even being serious too.

Maybe you should being he would be the best kind of Doc. Being he's not going to follow the conventional methods. I would rather trying something different than constantly following OEM specs... Thumbs up to you Evan!

I'm thankful to have a standard open diff in both trucks. No special fluids needed. 80w-90 GL-5 fluid.

You got a point... I've forgotten what it like to do that. Here in Idaho if you even find a 2nd Gen truck in a wrecking yard you are super lucky.

Still in all with my AirDog 150 or the 4G AirDog 165 pump I only see a 2-3 PSI drop on WOT stand.

Ummm... Might be cheaper... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/GRO841039 The only problem is the bulb won't fit the housing the index pins in the housing are in a different placement. Can't be traded.

Always best to remove the transfer case first then the transmission next. If you don't have the room. Sling the transmission up on the frame rails and then lower it down slowly to the floor. Then you can slide it out.

Just changed out the radiator this morning and got the coolant flushed and a new NAPA thermostat installed. The new radiator I picked up from NAPA for $282.00 was a Spectra Radiator looks to be of a very good design. The ditch the drain cock for a drain plug which I'm happy to have. The radiator is still a large 2 core radiator. All mounting and clips proper size and type. Back to running the highway. Nearly 400k miles before the coolant pH finally ate the rubber seal. There is no cracks in the radiator header tanks just the rubber seal failed. This is why coolant flush should be done BEFORE 100k miles. When the pH level gets corrosive enough it will start to break down the rubber seals. Like just on my last fix was the oil cooler gasket which the pH was enough to eat the rubber seal bead on the gasket and start it leaking.

Never had a brace... Never had any steering issues.

They are the same size. I've stole some used sealing washers for my truck. VP44 sealing washer will fit the rail drain.

https://www.napaonline.com/p/VAD811095 - Valvoline MTF - $9.99 a quart. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/VAR706035M - Valvoline 50 SAE - $12.60 a quart https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PZE3501 - PennzOil Syncromech - $4.89 a quart. - NV5600 Way cheaper than Redline $20 a quart or AMSOil. I've been hunting for common label product not high dollar racing synthetics. Even the dealer stuff if you can get it is $27 a quart. If NV5600 can have $5 a quart fluid why does the NV4500 need $20 plus a quart fluid? Don't say the syncros... I've already proved that is not true!

Optimally the fluid need to be GL-4. Period. Viscosity only matter for shift quality. 50 weight is more like straight 90 weight gear lube. The factory is 75w-85. Once I run out of the Mobil 50 weight I'm going to switch to Valvoline MTF 75w-90 lube which is also a GL-4 lube. Even with my rebuild and brass syncros it still shift fine. The dual disc clutch makes the throws slower waiting for the syncro to slow the shaft down and get up to the next get. Other than that Abe at Weller Truck still continues to cover the warranty with Mobil 50 weight trans fluid. Just for information purpose Dodge Dealer drop the 75w-85 and are now filling both NV4500 and NV5600 transmissions with ATF+4. Which is neither a GL-4 fluid nor even close to the 75w-85 fluid for viscosity.

Better access to the power steering fluid too... No Eric made it... As for the last one @mr.obvious made his own from looking at mine.

Backfeed without repairing the PCM. The voltage regulator only controls the green wire on the ground side. Hook up keyed +12V to the blue wire with a 5A fuse.

+12V suppose to come on after tach signal is seen. Ground regulation starts after tach signal is seen. Like I said you can back feed +12V to the blue wire it should start to function again. Just make sure to put a 5A fuse on that supply wire.

Its possible. if you can get the tracer soldered back together again. Its just a switched 12V line typically. Even if you back fed +12V on the blue lead the green lead is still functional. Like when mine fried green lead to the regulator still worked. Just needed 12V on the blue wire.

Might be so but you going to be wiping out battery all the time. The whole external regulator idea typically fails with batteries be ruined by undercharged or overcharged. All the old school regulators work off of air temperature under the hood. This why I do not suggest them. If you place a external regulator in a area that is too hot it will undercharge. Then if you mount in too cold of a place it will overcharge and boil the batteries dry.

Why would you wanna do that? It's best to keep the PCM regulator and the the battery temperature sensor. The reason for the regulator failure is the blue lead has shorted to ground. I've got a write up on how to fix all this... Then just replace the PCM. You'll never have this problem again. Then you need to do the W-T ground wire mod.

@dieselautopower could you please post up that link I wanna add it to my collection. Please.

Yup it look like the Kenworth I drive for the Fire Dept. Just exchange the dump bed for a 4,000 gallon water tank. Just really hard to kill a good Cummins.

Kind of like the 44 foot pounds holding a dual disc pressure plate...