Mopar1973Man

Just got all my parts together.

I cleared over 250k miles on my first AirDog 150. Second replacement 3G pump lasted barely 15k miles. Third, now got a 4G pump and the AirDog is rock solid again. I would consider a mechanical pump only if the pump can with a prefilter and 3um main filter like an AirDog. Then keep an electric priming pump. So many times I have seen old mechanical 1st Gens and 2nd Gen with broken primer. Nearly insane to get started again without the primer pump.

Seriously doubt the boost is the problem most people are looking for more boost to keeping the EGT's down. The only measurement he doesn't have is the engine load before and after. Engine load equals EGT's.

Yup...

Kind of like a VW yanking a tree stump eh?

No, It will gain you MPG for sure. Like me, I'm twisting 2,500 RPM at 82 MPH but still kicking out 19.58 MPG. My last 3 years of fuel logs. You can see my Economy tune is also a big gain. 3.69:1 final ratio to the pavement.

Not really. The top two gears are the same. Is just there is an extra gear in the bottom. Just consider the thought my current setup (NV4500 and 245's) I'm in 4th gear at 25 MPH. NV4500 - 5th gear - 0.75 NV6500 - 6th gear - 0.73 NV4500 - 4th gear - Direct NV5600 - 5th gear - Direct

Nope. Most can't tell they are 245's.

Little birdie told me Assassin is China Made now.

Excessive wind drag and excessive low final ratio which I calculate 3.39:1 to the ground. You need to change your gears to 4.10 at least to fix this problem. Wind drag will ever go away with the lift. Bigger exhaust isn't going to fix the problem. 4" is plenty big enough which it will take care of 600 HP easy.

If you have 3.55 gears... Now for towing if you want a killer setup, drop the stock 265/75 R16 tires and switch out for the 245/75/ R16 you'll find you have way more torque and cooler EGT's. Then the exhaust brake works even better with the 245's vs the 265's.

VERY IMPORTANT!

That sucks...

I would love to build and sell a VP44 test lead for that purpose with a toggle switch for power and protection fuse.

Here is our list...

Lots of options for exhaust brakes. If mine dies this is the exhaust brake I'll buy next. https://pacbrake.com/product-lines/exhaust-brakes/

Not really. 12 MPG is something you should see towing 8,000 pound trailer.

You should be able to monitor engine load as your traveling. Max number doesn't mean much. I need to know your tire size most likely your final ratio is too low and the engine is struggling excessively. Final ratio to the pavement should be in the 3.55 to 3.73 optimally.

Extremely high. I barely float 700°F with the Quadzilla on Level 7 (full wire tap). I'm running 82 MPH at 2,500 RPM and still after nearly 100 miles of this netted 19.58 MPG. Engine load just barely below 25% which is my cruise limit and floating 26.89° of timing at 2,500 RPM cruise timing. What is your engine load like at 80 MPH? What size tires are you running? What gear ratio is in the rear axle?

What codes? Still need to know about WTS light?

Rare but does happen to get above 20 PSI of fuel pressure and push the front seal out of the VP44 dumping fuel in the crankcase. Remember the return port on the VP44 is much much smaller than the supply hole. Return in on the left and supply is on the right.

Just a steep slope on my truck is enough to lock the seat belt and piss me off. The later truck use a swinging weight system to lock the seat belt.

From the videos I found they all show CCW from the front to advance.

First the ECM has to boot up and sense that the starter was bumped. If the ECM is not booting the prime cycle will not happen. Because aftermarket direct connect pumps like FASS and AirDog DDRP draw more amps than what the ECM is design to withstand. Full FASS and Full AirDog pump are fine with a protection relay. The other ones like AirTex pump etc. They again draw more amps to create the volume. You need the light in the cab. Being you have no way to read error codes being there is no PCM to start the CCD network nor the cluster to bias the voltage for the bus. Cummins Insite tool might help too if you have one. The WTS light should come on every key on cycle for at least a bulb test. No light, No boot.