Mopar1973Man

Ummm... It made from heavy steel. Should have built it out of aluminum. Weight takes HP to move.

I stay strictly stock and managed to get 150k to 350k from all the front end parts. My tie rod ends held up the best at 350k miles, my factory ball joints last over 180k miles. The track bar at 150k miles. Unit bearings over 150k miles. The key factor in seeing things last... DO NOT put on bigger wheels and tires! I've been under stock size for most of the life of my truck. Went from 265's to 235's and extended the life of everything. Now dropped the 235's and went an inch shorter with 245's. Now keeping the transmission and driveline happier!

Some 53 blocks don't crack. Ask @cajflynn about his 1.3 million mile Cummins with a 53 block. There is hope...

Weehaw... Even better news. St. Lukes hospital just sent me a letter stating that they are going to forgive 60% of my bill with them and drops it down to just under $6,000 for what my current bill is. Now let's see how the next surgery stacks up in this and this is a pill I can swallow. https://www.gofundme.com/mopar1973man-hospital-bills Or... On the website... https://mopar1973man.com/donate/make-donation/?_new=1&goal=11

Wish me luck... now going to be heading into my next surgery. That happens on Monday, March 25th at 11am. The doctor wants to put a stent in my right ureter and explore and make sure I'm still clean of cancer. This should be my last surgery.

You'll find out that the oil will most likely be higher with the cooler on the passenger side unless you can wrap the exhaust pipe or install a heat shield. That would be more productive than the coolers.

Just to make you think... That's all I really don't think there is anything that special.

I still got serious doubt of how different it is being now Dodge dealer is now loading either NV5600 or NV4500 with ATF+4. Even the G56 in the 3rd Gens are now ATF+4. Must not be too special eh?

Better off without it. Personally your just placing the heat closer to the oil. Then it would help to do some measuring of the oil first before buying coolers. I just spent 4 months where my oil temp never got over 100*F. Then in the summer time I rarely make it over 170*F even towing. Don't even need the coolers.

Might want to catch the diff cover thread. Someone can point you to the videos. I'm on the road.

4 inch chunk of exhaust pipe fits perfect. I've got a piece in mine.

Mobil 50 SAE GL-4 Synthetic Transmission fluid. Same stuff used in Eaton Fuller 10 speed transmissions. I'm at 110k miles and still going... No shift issues even with winter temperatures down to near -30*F and shift like butter. Be aware 50 weight oil is actually 90 weight Gear Lube much thicker. Like 75w-85 for the NV4500 is like 10w-30 engine oil.

The circuit breaker is only just in case the alternator diodes short to ground if so to prevent the wire from glowing and igniting a fire under the hood. So the breaker should be big enough for maximum charge amperage and cut the battery loose if it happens to short to ground.

Yeah, but there isn't much truth there either. Being I'm one of the rogue owners that bailed out and went out on a limb to prove that there are much more options.

Check back, Michael Nelson replied Tuesday at 07:44 PM is the reply...

I did get the diode for your type of alternator...

Yep... Alternator is moved to the passenger side and the ECM and VP44 ground moves to the driver side plus the gear case.

Time to contact Quadzilla sounds like warranty issue.

Error codes? Check with a scan tool. Report back the codes.

TST has no timing. That's why most stack with a smarty to make up the short comings.

Too wide of gap...(possibly) Lay a quarter (coin) on the bottom that what you measure too on an empty tank. No real notches needed I very lightly notch mine, not for volume but to prevent it from sucking flat to the bottom. The design is to let the deflection of the tank bottom rise up to the tip of the straw close to allow it to suck up as much fuel as possible. The bottom deflects another 3/16 or so with the full tank. So cutting the straw short causes the 1/4 tank issue.

High marked at 27.2 MPG, averaged about 22 MPG. Very difficult to do. Timing was wrong, too advanced in the winter time which I created the high idle mod and MPG fooler to fix that. (-1 point to Edge Comp). Then you have to drive 55 MPH (and under) all the time, if the engine load exceeds about 20% all the cruise timing is cancelled (-1 another point for Edge Comp). Drive like normal highway speeds the MPG dropped to about 18 MPG. At 80 MPH on the I84, it would drop deeper like 14 MPG.