Mopar1973Man

Even Paypal has a percentage they take so what's the worst of the two evils. Nick is right it would take more effort to sort out the fund and keep things straight. @Me78569 thank you sir for taking the step to start that. Trust me I will be glad to make a payment towards my bills. Sad to say about 7 times more than the GFM goal now roughly speaking from what I know.

Remember life span for ceramics will be much much less for a daily driver. Roughly about 40-50k miles and the flywheel and pressure plate will be ruined. I highly suggest against ceramic clutches on a daily driver. Being I've already changed two of them with less than 50k miles its not worth it. 48k miles. Pressure plate and flywheel grooved. Here is another at 40k miles pressure plate and flywheel grooved.

Remove that ground return to stock. Then test your alternator for excessive AC noise. Double check for noise filter on the PCM and remove. Then do the W-T ground wire mod. Add on to that mod.

Nope. Here are things I don't like about the soon to be released monitor. A forced dedicated screen that is hard wired in. Can't take it to the engine bay wirelessly like my current cellphone which can do both OBDLink and Quadzilla at the same time (dual Bluetooth channel). Can't remove it from the view of the public or passenger. Make your vehicle a target for break in. Direct access to all tuning functions even if you loan the vehicle. Security issue. Security feature of Level 1 is lost. Can't lock the tuner to defuel for security the thief just got to up the level one unlocked. Unknown mounting solution as of yet. Suction cup objects are illegal in many states. Not to mention suck when they continue to fall off the glass. (My Garmin does quite a bit). End up with another huge display still gotta keep my cellphone for phone calls and MP3 music which I can remove from the vehicle. Won't be able to lay on the couch building tunes you'll be forced to do it from the truck seat. Again not wireless. Can't be made headless like the current Bluetooth and WiFi. As for the current Bluetooth... Still having connection problems. Sometimes takes several tries to get the iQuad to hook up. Randomly locks up and you forced to restart the iQuad app again. After phone calls, the app turn to a black screen forced to restart the iQuad app again. Still not liking the willy nilly tick mark and strange span between marks. Non-standard like most gauges at +1, +10 or +100 per tick. Not iQuad. MPG functions still incomplete require to use the other vehicle to work with them. Not released in the 2.7 version yet.

Wiper motor for sure. The return/park switch is inside the wiper motor. Door light are nothing more than a ground pin. So when the door opens the slides outward making contact with the ground. Make sure the pin can be pushed in far enough to turn the lights off. It could be damaged or broken just double check. Door pin should trip the door chime if the keys are in the ignition or the headlights are left on. Now the panel switch will not trip the door chime at all. It could be a bad headlight switch.

On top of that ZERO gains to MPG. Free spin hub doesn't do much for reducing drag. The only bonus they will provide is standard cone and race bearing from years past instead of unit bearings of today. The only time I suggest the this is for guys with huge tire and lift kits because the bearings will hold up better in the long haul.

You know dang well and good a Ford boy will buy it either drive in the ground or steal the engine for his Ford.

Excellent... This how we all learn from what happened and can pass it on to other members.

The Blue Top I've got is slot car tight. I did have to adjust it just a wee bit.

@Auto Computer Specialist which happens to be a vendor here. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/196-auto-computer-specialist/ Give them a call and let them know I sent you.

Wire end to end should be 0 to 5 ohm max. Wire to ground should be infinite. Test for 5V with the key on at the sensor plug. Then I would replace the sensor. If still not right then I would send the ECM for testing.

Standard Sagnaw steering box. There is only the roller bearing on the output. The roller bearing washer inside. The worm gear is all ball bearing.

Testing for pinched or grounded wire required but ends to be open. So unplug the crank sensor and ECM. Red probe on the wire. Black probe on clean part of the block. Good wire = OL Bad wire shorted to ground = 0 ohms.

Maybe. If there is metal stuck to magnet of the sensor it can foul the magnetic field to the tone ring. As a metal tooth passes it creates an AC pulse. But with grease loaded graphite in the tone ring can do the same problem.

Sensor ground is not body grounds. Sensor grounds are reference to 5V generator not body ground.

Check the ABS speeds while driving then see if a sensors is dropping during braking. Like my case the right time ring would drop to 0 after slowing 30 MPH. Mine was not the sensor but the unit bearing is bad.

OL = over load. In ohm is infinite ohm. Which means open wire or broke wire.

Still I would discuss it with @Dynamic. There are mods you can't buy. Like my 46Re in my 96 Dodge has the clutch basket mill an extra 0.1 inch and stacked in extra clutch on direct and over drive. Then there is a spot in the bellhousing where you drill 2 oil holes for the clutches. Like I said you need to talk to him. These are tricks you can't buy in a kit.

Only thing vacuum controls is HVAC case and cruise control on automatics. Optional for exhaust brake. Vacuum assist was only on 1st gen trucks.

For what?

I've seen 23 degree once so far.

No air well... What's the power steering fluid look like?

Even a bad master cylinder could too.

Should help.

Adjustable fuel regulators you want to cycle the full in to full out. Then set your pressure. This frees up sticky regulator parts.