Mopar1973Man

Smoky... XZT is designed around stock injectors. Not boost to fuel control nor timing control. Bigger the injectors the more timing is required. Again it's about a balance of fuel and timing. XZT is not going to do that. Need a good amount timing retard as the turbo starts to light then flip over to advancing and heavy fuel. That period of time is based on timing and fuel/boost control. Ummm... Stock ECM timing is about 12* above 20% engine load. So if you want timing you have to have a live data display and keep the engine load below 20%. This is normal smog control tuning. If you really want to see retarded look at CR software it so retard stock that the main event actual fires ATDC not BTDC. The only thing I could think of is an exhaust leak or boost leak. But that wind tunnel sound is typically the BHAF that seems to amplify the sound like the turbo attempting to suck the glovebox through the firewall. If the compressor is not making contact and the shaft can't be pulled in or out the bearings are good. Long as there isn't any oil in the mouth of the compressor the seals are good.

Sounds normal. You problem is the timing is retarded so turbo typically stays active more. When you get into timing you'll find the turbo is much quieter and boost is much lower. Mine is typically 2 PSI at 65 MPH and very quiet. Then hit a grade it sounds like a turbo prop.

Do I want to know?

Bigger looks cool but small is better for the economy.

I've managed to get it all back together. Trying to get it to start now but my batteries didn't hold up to the cranking and sitting for the week. At least get it to fire up and move would be good so I can clean the floor so I can fix the power steer pump seal for the reservoir. I'm going to do a local shakedown before committing the truck to the long haul.

If you want to know how much loss there is the rotational mass you have here is the web site for mathing that out all the way down to the lug nuts. http://hpwizard.com/rotational-inertia.html Be aware the LT truck had 245/75 R16 tires and the SLT truck had the 265/75 R16 tires. Still in a stock range of tires just better ratio.

I'm working my way on reassembly now. We'll see soon, won't we...

Oh, I sure did. I also see why the lube is so important. Surprisingly as your torquing the head studs you really do see those washers turn like a bearing surface. I made sure to give them a good layer of lube top and bottom of each washer and then some lube on the threads. Once I get coolant loaded back up sound like a good idea. Just last year my VP44 died with a P0216 code stuck in full advancement. The truck managed to roll home under its own power at a mere 20-25 MPH knocking rather hard. That could be why you see that. As for my timing on my tune is nothing stronger than what the stock ECM can do now. I'm right at 20-21*... I've tried high timing but always see a rise in engine load start from there. Funny that new injection pump has nearly 100k miles already.

Key trick only works on a 2002 correctly. 98.5 and 99 don't do anything. 2000 PCM only 2001 maybe PCM and ECM but most are PCM only. 2002 ECM and PCM for sure.

ABS reports the speed on the CCD network. So I would have to say it CCD network to ECM issue. Being CCD network to cluster or PCM is working. I would check for any errors.

Should see the 215s on my half ton. Those are nearly razor thin. Best part is now reaching the high MPG number since I bought the truck back in 2001. High mark of 17.05 MPG. As for the 245s I'm just right there at 21 MPG now.

Sorry to hear about your Dad. That rough to battle cancer and keep going back and forth. Wow! I kind of understand that challenge being I'm taking care of my 82 year old Mom (MoparMom) with kidney failure. Your comment about the economy struck home for me. Being I travel back and forth the 3days a week to Ontario, OR I've been paying attention to the economy in all this town as watching them decline more. Like Riggins, ID is barely hanging in there and survives from tourism. I'd love to back in full swing of doing mechanic work as I've done in the past making typically 60 an hour. Most jobs I'm turning down because of the time to do the job. Not very many mechanics out here.

Kind of upset. That gasket kit has every darn seal you could ask for. But... The two sealing washers for the return rail. I've got the return rail hooked back up, IAT sensor, MAP sensor, ECT sensor, Boost plug for my gauge, heater hose fitting. I've managed to put the first torque cycle at 40 ft/lbs and then the second one at 80 ft/lbs. Taking a bit of break that rough pulling and push a torque wrench for 26 studs hung over the radiator that long. Ugh.

Got it... Jack and an old 2x6 did the trick. No dent even just lift that needed 1/4" and it fell right in.

I'm starting to think of cutting a 2x4 just long enough to reach a floor jack and the lightly lift the body just enough to slip it in there.

Nope. Like either the engine has to drop a 1/4" or the cab has to rise a 1/4".

Help! I'm stuck. I've got all but one long stud in the head. The cowl hangs down too much to get the long stud in. Is there any trick for getting past this? I know @Me78569 done studs on his 2nd Gen he would know but I'm not sure what to do and I'm stuck. All the other stud are in and seated lightly.

The worst one to try to find is the compressor front seal failure and leakage. Typically don't leave any oil or dye behind.

Yes. Hollow kitty. Yeah it could be due for timing chain but right now my focus is getting the head gasket done on the Cummins before I dig deep in the V8.

Here you go. I've got one in both trucks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XWFLYNC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just use foam insulation and covered the lines.

Only good for stock injectors. This why I still suggest the Quadzilla Adrenaline over the XZT because then you not bound to small or stock injectors and then deal with the lag issues. Basically, build a tune for performance and a daily tune with a mellow fuel curve for smoke control. Basically in a nutshell XZT is just an Edge EZ. Again design its tuning around stock injectors. No timing control, no fuel control no fuel to boost control. You could buy a Quadzilla XZT and a set of RV275 injectors.

Maybe you should talk to @cajflynn he towed heavy for 1.3 MILLION miles with a 53 block. Never cracked. Not all 53 blocks will crack. Problem is you can do just the seal but like @Dieselfuture he's had to do them twice now.

Should work out just fine. VP44 is mostly steel part inside. There is only a few o-ring seals in the entire pump so as long as the pump has fuel inside it should be fine.