Mopar1973Man

Ummm... Maybe... The part that sucks is you know that it only 2 bolts to unhook the vacuum pump to the gear case. Nearly impossible to line the entire mess back up with the power steering pump and hoses hanging off the two pumps. Just take the time and fix it. I know it PITA to pull the 4 nuts on the P/S pump and then pull the vacuum pump but at least your sure of the gear case gasket.

Secret... If you and me where to walk out into the snow we would sink every step we make. Then if you put on snowshoes you can walk on top of the snow. The secret is I've always ran small pizza cutter tires that push down to the road surface and gain traction easy. where guys with wide tires tend to float on top and have huge issues with traction.

Hmmm... In the entire 15 years of ownership on my truck I've only been stuck twice. Once in the yard moving the RV on soft ground. Then the other time with a full load of wood trying to cross soft ground. I'm 4WD and standard differential and rarely do I use 4WD even in the winter time with icy roads. Just to make you think.

I would read and do as much of the diagnostics as possible but it looks like you have a got a bad VP44.

Coolant system pressure tester just like I did. Pump it up to about 17 PSI and trace out the water source. Control arm is just replacement. You might want to Jack stand the frame letting the axle hang free.

Timing is completely up to you. Like I run about 21 degrees at 2k on the tach. I'm in this more so for longevity and MPG. Basically I'm building tunes that reduce engine load at set speed. Matter of fact since my head gasket and head rebuild I had to rebuild the tune. Compression is way better and less blowby. I had to change my fuel load timing from 1.5 to 3 degrees. Lowered my starting timing to 15 degree with a stepping of +3 thorough the bands.

... Maybe 250k miles

I've got to admit now the rebuilt head and gasket the trucks great. Now I noticed I had to change up my Quadzilla tune. Lets see what I can hit now.

I'm no better with dumping $1,600 or so in head gasket, studs and refurb the head. Next on my list is brakes and the front end clunking noise. @Me78569 yes, I know exactly what it is too. I know you wished you knew... Control arm bushings.

Absolutely... Quadzilla Adrenaline and done. My old Edge Comp was very tough to tune and get all the HP without making it smoke. As for the Quadzilla you can build tunes that are very clean and don't smoke at all.

If the resistor is blown that's because the blower motor bearings are shot adding extra load on the resistor. ...or did you forget to plug it back in?

I guess that what you call, "Going for broke"

You mean winter feathers? What you never molt?

That time of the year is coming... Any starting there winter fuzz?

Running the same idea... I've got my cellphone jacked into the aux jack of my Kenwood MP3 player so all cellphone calls are through the stereo, all my text messages are read over the stereo, I can voice command the phone and send text messages or call people. Quadzilla tuner on my cellphone and then for those time I want to listen to my MP3 pile on the phone aqnd can play Google play and listen to that music too. Completely handfree setup if you set up the Google Voice Commands (Android of course).

Yeah, the outside you'll see the oil leak and the crack case typically below the fan mount.

I've got to ask what was the total cost of the new rocker arms for the set?

You want to find a fold-down style screen and not a fold-up. There out there I did some research on it and found a few single DIN stereos with fold down screens. This way the screen doesn't fold up over the center vents which would suck on a hot summers day and not have air from the center vents. There are a few members that did Android stereos and managed to load iQuad App on the stereo without an issue. As for stereo apps, I imagine you could set your cellphone up for tether on Bluetooth and then the stereo would have an internet connection to download the iQuad app. I do that now with my laptop and cellphone instead of WiFi.

Might look at the alternator that @W-T used on his Dodge. Should be in the article for the ground wire mod.

It was only for like a year or so. Like my 96 Dodge doesn't have rear brake lever. It's a rear wheel ABS system too.

I would add just about 1 or 2 ozs of PAG 100 just for safety.

One of my least favorite places to shop.

No issues. Dropped in hard at nearly 3k RPM on the exhaust brake still all is good. The only way your getting drive pressure up the to the valve seal and blowing them off is the guides on the exhaust side have clearance and the pressure is blowing them off. The top hat style the spring is holding the seal down. I wonder how long that will last.

I found a part store manager that was really cool. He admitted that the new power steering pumps are not holding up good. Being all I was looking for is the reservoir seal he was nice enough to order a new pump and pull the seal off the pump and give it to me. Really cool guy. Now as for replacing that seal you can replace the seal without pulling the pump. I removed the 2 return lines and the pressure lines. Then there is two 18mm head bolts and then a 27mm fitting that your pressure hose screws into. Very carefully just bump the reservoir and it will slide off the pump. My seal was cooked hard. It broke instantly. I lightly greased the new seal and slipped into the groove. I clean out the reservoir can with a bit of brake clean and rag. Lightly greased the reservoir lip. Slipped it over and reassembled. Filled with about pint of fluid and I was done no more dripping power steering issue!

About 60k to 65k on a set of Hankook ATm. Balanced out good not a lot of weight needed. 245/75 R16 - Rated for 3,042 pounds at 80 PSI 235/85 R16 - Rated for 3,042 pounds at 80 PSI