Mopar1973Man

Head over to the 24V 2nd Gen articles and read up on CCD network bus. All the diagnostic info is there. It would help if you listed any error codes. Remember if there is any other failed modules will give the no bus message too.

Zero.

Yes. Just dropping from level 7 to level 3 then I can mat the throttle climbing grades and never reach 1200F EGTs. Its seems to reset in both positions. Both on or off Avg MPG is zero at next key on event.

Being I've got a set race track I do every Tues, Thurs, and Sat it makes it easy to study the effects of a change in a few laps. Basically run 250 miles every trip so I've got good data to play with. 3.73 should get you close to 3.55 final. Like my last trip towing my 31 foot RV weighing roughly 8,000 pounds I still got 15.9 MPG.

@Quadzilla Power as for the reset of trip if they are left in the off position it will reset the trip every time you hook back up. If they are left on the trip data is saved from cycle to cycle.

If the Raptor is damaged from fuel on the brushes it will happen again this why I mention it and so you could check. Tha what happen to my AirDog 150 after 13 years of service the seal and shaft bearing failed and quit blowing the fuse. I would highly suggest checking the cause out if it is the ECM fault then I suggest getting it fixed. Two things can happen forget to turn on the fuel pump in a hurry or have an accident and being unconscious and having manually switch pump feeding a fire. Either way a bad deal...

Headlight and fog lamp grounds are in the driver side kick panel. Fog lamp relay is in the PDC. There is another rare one if it just one bulb it could be the filament is broken and dance back and forth making contact and braking contact. My old aircraft landing lights were known for that one. Hit a bump the light would come back. Hit another and light would go out.

Other than the misfire sound strange it should create any issues that I know of. Just keep an eye on oil level make sure it not making oil.

I was told by the guy at NAPA that all the rebuilt unit are prone to failure doesn't matter who you get then through now (AutoZone, RockAuto, NAPA, Etc.) So he's going to do a bit of magic and order a pump for me pull the seal and return the pump with a missing seal. Nothing wrong with my pump just the case to pump seal is gone and leaking.

Then it should show up runout if you have them checked now then. If you want to see quality brakes do a search for "Brembo Brakes". I know it's way beyond your price range as well as my own but you'll see what REAL drill and slotted rotors look like. Not the cast rotor you most likely got now that are going to be prone to issues.

Might need to re-pop test all of them.

Bad ground? Bad headlight switch? Bad relay?

Possible fuel in the Raptor motor fouling the motor brushes.

Strange... 3rd Gen body in a 2002... Now I've watch the video. Sorry about that. I was think 2002 2nd Gen body which I've done a bunch. Then my last comments was like the other 2002 3rd Gen here in the valley he smoked the blower motor brushes. Replaced that and problem was gone.

Then the brushes in the blower are most likely worn out and barely touching.

In a nutshell as you make changes to the tune watch the engine load number more so. As you get closer to your optimal mark your engine load number will go down for the same speed. Might not be much but every little bit counts. Just remember engine load translates into the amount of fuel being delivered to the engine. Little easier to look at that than the CANBus fuel number which is the very same number but from zero to 4,095. The biggest thing against you is the tires. I'm going to assume you have 3.55 gears. Basically, you've got a final gear ratio of 3.27:1 to the ground if the axles are geared 3.55. Now if you had 4.10 gears and those tires you would be in the optimal mark for gearing at 3.78:1 almost a perfect 3.73 gear ratio.

Blower resistor is failed You need to replace both the blower motor and the blower resistor as a package. Being the bearings in the blower motor is most likely partially seized up and the blower resistor quit or failing because the extra amperage draw is causing excessive heat on the resistor.

Weird how small of a gap for 7x0.0095 vs 7x0.013... Strange.

Ill try that last time it was resetting if I left it off on both. Again this need a bit UI/UX tweaking. Should be just a reset button.

Yeap... Sad but true.

Yeah, they are leaking. Most likely the crossover tubes are bleeding pressure past into the return rail.

Might have to loosen the lines really good and try lifting the injectors a little to make them move again. I know they won't lift but if they are bound up they may not move to seat.

The switch remains ON but toggle off and then back ON. I'm at 140% for my 7 x 0.0085 injectors I might be a bit too high though. So you slide the toolbar back down correct? Then the Red X still there?

I realize that but the fact I just tapped on it and then closed it without making a setting then it locked up the app and would not connect till I set it for 0 or 1, "null" is not a valid value. Then the App will connect again. Just be aware its an issue that can cause someone connection problems.

Ummm... The last ticket I've ever got was back 26 years ago. Been awhile since I've really been pulled over and picked on. I've had one a year ago but local cops don't bother with me once I pull my Idaho County ID for search and rescue. But the suction cup idea is something to be aware of. Even my Garmin and it constantly falling off the glass and laying in the bottom of the dash. Scares the crap out you at night when it does fall.