Mopar1973Man

I'm still wondering about the road debris problem and how will it stand up fo muddy roads and snow. If this set up can withstand that I know several ranchers down here that would love to jump on stuff like this.

Yeah, the whole MPG display is screwed. Yesterday I made the run to dialysis for MoparMom I was half out of it (lack of sleep). I picked up fuel and reset all the Quadzilla and trip. Drove over dropped Mom off and then went over to the Ontario, OR state park. I left the engine idle 3 HOURS being it was 103*F and I needed sleep. Woke up still running and cool in the cab to see the MPG showing 2.36 MPG which was exactly the same amount of gallons used. Mind you the gallons used is correct it is right on the nail for the most part (-0.2 Gallons off when I filled). After finding out I had to go home another way. So added another 150 miles longer to the trip to get stuck and traffic jam (Idaho 55) in the canyon and idled another 1 full hour keeping the cab cool. Looking at the display showing 4 MPG. It's laughable because if it was true I would have run out of fuel about 40 miles back about (4 MPG = 140 total distance for 35 gallons of fuel) I was already at 180 and had 1/8 tank used. I hate to say it @Quadzilla Power you are going to have to come up with something totally different. This is real life usage for me being I've got a 4-hour wait for MoparMom's treatment and might end up sleeping in the truck or stuck in traffic.

No joke. I've seen this very common up here where pup's buy a cheap 2" level kit and set of 35" tires and slap them on to find out they made a train wreck out of the front axle geometry and can figure out why the truck wonders all over now.

Update with the map and my pen is pointing to home.

Be careful on removing paint. I'm now starting to see people get into new issues of clean the paint off to bare metal and now have a rusting ground point which is worse. Typically I clean the ring terminal with a scotch brite pad and then just tighten down the fastener again to keep from exposing metal and creating a rust point.

Timbo's APPS is the only fully mechanical APPS sensor with NO ELECTRONICS! All mechanical switch and rheostat. No logic electronics for controlling the IVS switches. So yes Timbos is a huge improvement over a a stock APPS or a Wells APPS. Might still be a bad alternator diode or brush pack. I would look into doing the gorund wire mod for the system that @W-T posted in the articles. If that's confusing then my version of W-T article is on the second page (simplified).

On my truck, I shove a full-size 5-gallon bucket under the drain cock and open its stops just short of the top of the bucket and slide it out. Then I remove the thermostat and get the garden hose and flush that block out really good. After the block is flushed out good I drain it again. Close the drain. Now the first gallon of coolant goes in straight. Being there is already water in the system. The remaining coolant is mixed 50/50. Continue to fill the system till the coolant is just about to spill out of the thermostat hole. Now install the NEW thermostat and upper hole and top off. No need to burp the system already do if you do it this way. I've been using strictly NAPA 375-190 thermostats for the life of the truck and still not had one fail! No need for fancy high priced Cummins thermostats... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MRD375190

Update on Rattlesnake fire. Seem while I was down taking care of MoparMom's dialysis USFS came through yesterday and set up sprinklers and prepped my yard for fire protection. As for sleep... Monday from 12 noon to 1am then got to bed. Tuesday from 6am to 2am. Wednesday I took off MoparMom wasn't feeling good. By 5pm her potassium level jumped and end up head for the hospital. Got home again at 2am. I'm exhaust. Slept barely 4 hours. Thursday get rolling barely even human state at this point make it down to Ontario. MoparMom is getting here treatment enhanced to handle the problem. During her treatment I managed to sleep for 2.5 hours with the Cummins idling away with A/C going being it was only 103*F in Ontario, OR. Leave Ontario, OR and to find out US95 was shut down due to a wildland fire in Midvale, ID. Go turned around and headed back to Idaho 55. Get over there to be held up for an accident over there. We made it home again at 1am in the morning. I got some sleep but I'm still a shell of a man at the time of typing this. I've called my fire chief and left a message saying I've got to step down till I can catch up.

I can see for track or dyno purposes of putting on a velocity stack. Then when you are done with the fun I would toss the BHAF back on again.

@99dodge_pos you find out we've got our own family of guys here. Typically they throw in the comic relief to the thread keeping the tension down. Seriously though these guys typically have there head screwed on tight and have a wealth of knowledge to share.Just relax and enjoy the comments and they will get you past you hurdles.

I'm down here so MoparMom gets dialysis. Then back home to the smoke-filled valley. Fricken crazy the amount of fires burning. There is another fire down in Midvale ID that is burning across grassland down here. Smoke is not so bad down here in Ontario, OR but heading north its crazy thick in places.

Now see if you can repeat it again. Then you know you got the tune figured out. It could be a fluke too. Time to find out.

Yeah, they have to replaced as pairs.

Just break that tranny. (posted picture above) Then she gotta fix it.

Got that some what...

ESE 3 MPH currently. 92*F and 21% RH.

Yeah, I think you're on the right track with the TIPM. I know the 3rd Gen trucks have the same design and issues using TIPM.

You might try getting ahold of @Chris O. he might know since @Me78569 is gone for time being.

Typically its a speed sensor issue. If the rear sensor is having trouble then the speedometer will act goofy or jump to speed. If it's a front sensor you may feel brake pull or odd braking. Either way, I would change up the speed sensors and get them replaced. Once an ABS light is tripped you need to cycle the key OFF and back on for the ABS module to re-test the system. Like in my case I replaced 3 set of sensors in the front and one in the rear. It turned out I had a bad tone ring on the unit bearing in the front.

So far so good. I've been cruising the ATV and running back and forth to keep a pair of eyes on the movement. Sprinklers are going behind the houses. Dam is still running strong feeding 3 homes and no issues. My neighbor lost his dam something failed and the water stop flowing. Unknown as of yet. It looks like USFS is going to keep the fire up on the ridge behind us. Now if the Good Lord allows us to keep water and nothing burns my waterline laying in the ditch behind the house.

Update... It is active burning behind the house right now.

Under the axle. The suspension has to remain like it sits on the ground.

Yeah, it's the "Rattlesnake Fire"... https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/incident/5999/ http://www.idahofireinfo.com/2018/07/rattlesnake-creek-fire-actively-burning.html

Be careful. P1698 is a different code from P1689...