Mopar1973Man

Pinehurst is about 3/4 of a mile. The fire is west side across from Pinehurst Resort. Mopar1973Man is a bit off I'm the dot just north.

The only thing we've managed to do is protect homes. The fire as I know right now is still running unchecked on the west side.

There is only a handful of certified rebuilders out there that have the test stand for programming PSG on the VP44. Just because its a dealer you have no idea who supplied them. I know for sure Diesel Auto Power supplies both Midwest Injection and Industrial Injection both are certified rebuilders. Then Vulcan Performance is Industrial Injection as well. Now you know that your buying for a pump and has been properly rebuilt, pump bench tested for 3 hours and PSG flashed with the calibration. There are rebuilders out there that sell rebuilt VP44 with USED PSG units and never been bench tested. Typically they are cheaper in price. Not a good thing!

Welcome to the family! Just get a post out on the forum of the proper generation and everyone will be happy to help you out.

Still running the stock OEM. The biggest thing is keeping the pH level correct. This why your radiator tank gasket failed is the coolant turn corrosive and ate the rubber gasket on the tank head. As you'll see I've documented all my coolant flushes and still to this day the radiator is like brand new yet after 15 years and 350k miles.

There is 2 actually... One just below the stock placement where the plastic line comes up. Then the connector at the fuel sender is a plastic quick connect. There is a 3rd which in on the return side but typically not a huge issue. Stock placement places a lot of vacuum on the suction side. Just put a can of your favorite beer in the bed of the truck about where the sender now gives you piece of tubing and try to suck the beer from that can in the bed. You'll be all pissed off. This is why most of dump the stock pump (location) and moved back close as possible to the fuel tank which reduces the amount of vacuum on the suction line this also reduces the air leak issue.

100 to 280 is what you want. I know cheap GlowShift start at 80*F and go to 280*F. You want to see the low end.

Simple... Unhook the Quadzilla. Now turn your key on reset all codes. Double check your all cleared. Now fire up go for a good 10-15 mile test drive. Check the codes again. If the codes are still gone then the Quadzilla has issues on the boost fooler. If the codes return the MAP sensor and/or wiring on the truck is at fault.

Oh... The stock lift pump is directly controlled by the ECM. No relay or fuse. If its aftermarket to could be relayed and fused and some are not.

As long as the there are no quick connect fittings. This is why most of us opt for Packer Push Lock JIC connectors they are self-sealing and way less issue with air leak problems. Quick connection lines like the stock lines or Newer AirDog are prone to suction leaks. Some guys have gone back and order the parker push locks and cut the quick connectors off and replace them.

All I can say is I can get typically 150k miles on a trackbar. My last cheap Autozone bar barely lasted like 7k miles and the bushing failed not the ball. Larger your tires the shorter the lifespan. Like tie rod ends lasted 340k miles. Ball joint (AC Delco) are almost 200k miles and still going tight. Stock OEM gear box was still going at about 320k miles when the imput shaft seal failed. The guts were prefect still. Way more bonuses to 235's than any larger sized tire period. Larger tires look cool but, they break more stuff quicker.

Cranking the engine. The fuel pump relay in the PDC is the only control for the VP44. If that relay is bad or failed it will toss a P1689 code.

Yes Sir...Been with the Salmon River Rural Fire Dept over 15 years and also rank as a Station Captain. I'm the Chief right-hand man for most things on the fire. Matter of fact yesterday I was breaking in a Green Horn and getting him lined out and teaching him the ropes. Old photo... But of my award dinners where I put in massive hours.

As of Monday night as I went home at 1am from the fire line... Monday... Just trying to get water... 4,000 gallons takes a while for a trash pump to load. Rare... Pumping water across the Little Salmon River...

Yeah, poor MoparMom is not feeling all that hot from the heavy smoke. I've called in to stay at home so today task for me is to move the sprinklers behind the houses and get the mountain as wet as possible. I'm worn down pretty good from the long days and lack of sleep. I'm still holding my own for the time. This a very rare set up where USFS had us pumping water across the Little Salmon River. Basically, our task has been to follow USFS and get the black laid in behind homes and areas of steep terrain to keep roll out from starting below the firelines. Yeah, I learned that yesterday when I backed in a road to service an engine with a load of water by the time I got done filling his tank and spun my head around the roll out, had dumped a firebrand below the road and had us trapped. Now we had to fight the fire to get back out of that dead-end road. Not fun... Kind of on the spooky side.

I made another day. The smoke is thick and hard on every one. Mom is having trouble with the smoke. Might have to sit out tomorrow. See what happens in the morning. Less than a mile now. Post more in the morning.

I'm alive this morning barely with 5 hours of sleep. Fire is less than one mile from my doorstep. The fire was human caused is far as I will report right now. Started about 11am Monday about 3 miles away. It's managed to run south along the ridge now headed towards home. I'm happy to say that just Sunday I built a new irrigation dam for my neighbor on the south side of me. My dam was full and doing awesome. I've got to get the sprinklers fire up this morning before I head back to work the tender. Yup, I've got the 4,000-gallon water tender (Cummins Big Cam 400) again. Please say a few prayers for my neighbors and myself there has been no loss of life or property as of right now but we are fighting hard to protect everyone.

This is less than one mile away.. I'm exhausted it's 1am I got home.

If you going to do that it a full day job of pulling the HVAC case but most likely the evaporator will be plugged with trash. (air wise) but the heater core will most likely be scale build up if the coolant has been change in a timely schedule. I just updated this article... 350k mile coolant flush.

I've got to ask how are you doing the math? If it's not based on gallons and miles? So I'm only a bit below 7/8 of a tank now. 164 miles and Quadzilla shows 11.98 MPG. So if I idle for any extended time say stuck on a traffic jam, warming up the engine on a cold morning to break the frost on the glass, that means the Quadzilla will show inherently super low. MPG's. Like this tank I've idled in a parking lot for about 30minutes so I didn't fry in the 102*F temperatures in Ontario, OR. I know my current actual MPG is right about 18 MPG right now hand mathed off the gallons and odometer. In the past I played the game of watching the odometer every 20. (20, 40, 60, 80, etc.) So if I was above 20 MPG the gallons used should be below the 20 multipler. If I was below 20 MPG then the gallons would be above 20 multipler. Example: 100 miles and 4.8 gallons used you know you are above 20 MPG (actually 20.8 MPG). Example: 120 miles and 6.5 gallons used you know you are well below 20 MPG (actually 18.4 MPG) Currently, the Average is a long way from right... So if Quad shows about 12 MPG and my quick math show 18 that's an error of -6 MPG because I idled in the parking lot for 30 minutes. I think that formula needs some reworking.

I wonder how that cooler will hold up if the truck is used off the pavement? Mud being slung at it. I've got some ranchers up here that have automatics and like them for the reason of offroad and don't have to worry about clutching. It would be nice to have a solution for them as well where a cooler could be remote mounted and handle some offroad usage without failing.

Yeah, I saw the same thing during the 46RE break-in period there was a small amount of debris in the bottom of the pan stuck to the magnet. You could epoxy the magnet to the bottom but that will make for a PITA to clean later.

@marked23 I've got to ask what kind of tape or wrap material are you using on the loom? I'm curious. It also looks really good like an older generation wire loom from the 70's.

Toss a donation to the site and the downloads area unlocks. I'm not sure how this going to work out between countries but if you have trouble let me know.