Mopar1973Man

That 7 x 0.010 injectors and a Quadzilla would be the awesome setup on your current turbo. You'll be able to defuel the Quadzilla enough to build boost and get the turbo lit then cut it loose with a wire tap and extra fuel.

Some people have all the bad luck. Currently 349k miles. Ball joints at 185k still running that second set. AcDelco from RockAuto. Tie rod ends changed at 340k miles for the first time. Using NAPA parts. Steering gear box at 335k miles. Blue Top Gear Box installed. My box was still tight just leaking and rusted badly. I damaged the input cap trying to rebuild the gear box. Still running OEM power steering pump. Brakes where done back at 180k miles. Still going on OEM rotors. NAPA track bar not to long ago. (Bad mistake bought a Autozone bar because I needed it now!) Steering is tight like the day I bought the truck brand new in 2002. The whole trick is not to install oversized tires and wheels. The only sized tires I've ever ran was 265/75 R16, 235/85 R16 and now going to switch 245/75 R16 (increase my final ratio to 3.69).

I'm running a 60/60/12 Hybrid HX35/40 turbo which would fit your application just about perfect...

Kind of like this one... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2260/overview/

Now @Dynamic showed me a spot in the rear of the pan which is near the OEM sensor and shows a close to right value. I've not move there yet. I need to drill and weld in the bung yet. Low on my priority list right now. The hot line shows while it running but can be affected by road condition like excessive snow, slush, or excessive water spray on the line. You may need to insulate the line to keep a good reading.

Kind of like this problem... Cab filter packed with corn.

I'm just south of you by about 3 hours. Funny how the Palouse has that problem with all the grain fields up there. Come down here not as much they exist but the hawks and owls tend to pick them off rather quickly. I find squirrel tails in the yard all the time.

I'm looking for a 1996 Ford Explorer wiring diagram for the HVAC wiring diagram. I've got a local lady that needs the A/C in her vehicle and the blower quit and the compressor won't come on. I need info on finding the wiring diagram,

Bad connectors have been always an electrical trick to learn. No signs of failure (melted, blown fuses, etc.) just the connector is weak and randomly opens the circuit. I've found in the past to sometimes to light bend the contacts slightly to make a better connection if this works then you know the connector is at fault.

All the years of living out here in Idaho I've only had one problem packrat. Since them no more. I can leave my trucks outside or in the garages, either way, I've not had a problem with mice or rats.

My typically hot fuel mark is 130-135*F on 107* day. Even after parking for long periods still very little rise. Typically my IAT and Fuel temp are nearly the same. Typically flip-flopping IAT and fuel temp at about +5*F spread. Maybe that why I can go 60k miles with fuel filters because I'm not creating any asphaltene. Last two years now I've got 250 mile round trips between Ontario, OR and home. Last trip I measured the outside air at 107*F and the fuel temp maxed out at 135*F. IAT was floating about 132*F. BHAF as well. Remember its not the cold air intake. It about the temperature crossing the intercooler. Then there is a coolant jacket within an inch or so from IAT sensor.

Tip: A lot of people do realize that "Engine Load" is actually the amount of fuel commanded by the ECM.

I've dealt with pup's like this before. Last one I remember handling was an older Datsun truck and had carburetor issues. Once I got it started you could hear the connector rod banging away. I told him it was done. Nope, he was going to quit. Kept it running and knock got worse in a mere few second and locked up solid. Then he says he needs to get it running. I already warned him something was broke inside the engine hence why the starter couldn't twist the crank. I already knew the connector rod had broken free and jammed the crank. I told him I could drag start the truck. It actually did start. Running on 3 cylinders the connection rod was shoved there the block and left a fist-sized hole but it was running.

In other words. Intake range is 0.006 to 0.015" Typically set for 0.010" Exhaust range is 0.015 to 0.030" Typically set for 0.020" To find people that don't know how to properly use a feeler gauge.

Few people I talk to typically are running the Smarty Touch and monitor the back pressure and see if the VGT is stuck or not. Smarty touch will report the back pressure if the VGT is stuck the drive pressure will get crazy high.

I know of @IBMobile

245/75 R16 and 3.55 Gears, 0.75 (5th gear ratio). 65 MPH is 1960 RPM's 66 MPH is a perfect 2,000 RPM's. 80 MPH is 2,400 RPM's.

LOL. I got one. I pulled a guy out of the backcountry because he thought he had enough fuel (3/8 of a tank) and forgot about the steep grade. As he ran up a steep grade in the backcountry the fuel ran to the back of the fuel tank engine died. Rolled back down the hill and could start again but couldn't make it over the grade without running out of fuel on the climb. I end up pulling him over the grade so he could get back to town 15 miles away.

I always loved the comment. But always loved when the 12V craps the bed and leaves them on the side of the road now you guessing. Did it run out of fuel? Is the lift pump pumping enough pressure? Did the fuel solenoid burn up? Is the fuel shutoff arm up or not? Is the p-pump timing still on or do the gear just slip? Did the fuel heater just fail and now sucking air? All these questions are my typical checklist for the broke down person along the road. The bad part is most people can't do anything about most of it. Like lift pump problems most people don't install a fuel pressure gauge on a 12V. Fuel solenoid typically a no-brainer but most people don't know it. Then people out here broke down don't have the luxury of waiting days for a quality fuel shutoff solenoid so they get raped by the local part store. Then have guys that think they know how to time the pump end up not getting the nut on tightening and having the gear slip and now stuck in the middle of nowhere.

Larger the tire size, the lower the final ratio, and more engine load and lower fuel mileage. This is why I've been studying the 245's now. Dropping from 31" tires to 30" tires. I'm still debating in my mind of a 215/85 R16 (8.5") or 245/75 R16 (9.6") both are 30" tall. Where the 235/85 R16 (9.3") and 265/75 R16 (10.4") are 31" tall. All comes down to rotational mass and final gear ratio. Bigger tires do look cool but looking cool comes with a price tag. I've got to. Being the next diesel fuel station might be a very long ways away. Living on the east side of the island population density it much higher. Out here towns don't have to have a fuel station and some may or may not have fuel that day. It does happen. So being able to understand you remaining range you have left in gallons and miles is very helpful to know what your next step is being fuel might be another 100 miles to reach. Might be. I can tell you as the senders wear they typically hit empty higher on the gauge. So when mine failed I was hitting empty at 3/8 of a tank.

In my past rigs I was really fussy about making sure the float arm just about touch the bottom of the tank. I wanted to know where EMPTY exactly was. I'm currently not happy with the current float setup. Fill it up and it sits on full for at least 100 miles and the starts to fall. Now my Quadzilla shows my consumed fuel in gallons and really close to being right on most of the time. By the time I hit Ontario on my return trip I'm normally close to 15 to 18 gallons used. I typically hit the half mark at about 17.5 to 18 gallons which is about right for 35 gallon fuel tank. (35 / 2 = 17.5 Gallons). When the fuel light comes on at the 1/8 of a tank I typically have 10-11 gallons left. So the span between 1/2 and 1/8 mark falls ball of lead chucked out in the lake. Personally, the 2nd gen cluster sucks for accuracy. Volt gauge once it hits 11.99 volts the gauge drops to 8 and chimes. It will not rise back up till there is 12.01 Volts again. Oil pressure gauge that changes to coolant temperatures. Coolant is pretty close to right.

Man don't I wish. 300 to 350 miles on the first half.

I've got to ask why? Why are you willing to give up the 24V for 12V? All I can say is make sure you buy the tools for the p-pump. Timing is rather tough without the dial indicator. Then when there is issues there is no diagnostic port to help you. Yes, I know the 1996 and up have a port but there are no electronics on the engine to help you on diagnostics.