Mopar1973Man

Might ask @Me78569 on how long his Spicer ball joints lasted. I can say less than a year. As for Moog lifetime warranty they are no longer American made. Basically China junk why they are now lifetime warranty. There was a reason why I said what I did... Moog is no longer a quality product. Too many people end up replacing quickly afterwards.

This is why I buy only one type of grease and continue to use the same grease for the majority of the stuff on the property. Typically buy the SuperTech Red grease. Buy both the grease gun cartridge as well as the can for packing bearings again.

In this case you do each battery separate for the Cummins. As for this is done all ganged.

Might have to call him on that... I know I got a seal kit for my old box but the rust was so bad. I sent as a core. I know he can do seal kits. The contact info everything is in his forum area. If you post over there it should bring him to the site.

Being I'm using the level 7 part of my daily tune being about 0.75 to 1.00 gallons off doesn't bother me one bit. What is neat I can roughly math out my fuel mileage on the fly. look at the Quadzilla and at 1 gallon I should be at roughly 20 Miles. 2 gallons at 40 miles and on up. This is for aiming the 20 MPG mark. Level 3 I'm within about 0.1 to 0.2 of a gallon typically.

Equalize charging is typically done when the battery is being topped off with distilled water once a month. Equalize charge does a few things first off it does overcharge the batteries this controlled overcharge stirs the distilled water into the electrolyte (acid) to prevent stratification of the distilled water and electrolyte. Then the high voltage does convert a percentage of the sulphation of the lead plates back into solution to gain more plate function back. This is typically done on lead-acid batteries. I highly suggest you do not do this with any seal gel cell or AGM battery most likely you will do damage or shorten the life of the battery.

Here you go now that I'm at home... https://mopar1973man.com/forum/195-blue-top-steering-gear/

Yes. Talk to Ryan at bluetop he's got seal kits. He's also vendor here on the site.

Ill have to jump in here and explain equalize charging. When I get home ill explain in detail.

Or use 95.7 inches to pass stock speed through.

Correction 135% I'm really close to dead on.

More expensive... Yes Frantz has new rolls for like 4 or 9 bucks a piece. http://www.frantzfilters.com/synthetic-vs-cellulose-media/ I loved idea of 9 buck and having 12 rolls. Not 9 bucks for one roll. Then changing twice in oil change interval. So the filter now are more expensive than the main oil filter. Ugh. Now you know why I pulled my Frantz.

Better check you length of the roll. I pulled mine because the Scotts roll is too short and not sealing any longer. Cup ring is not pressing into roll like it supposed to.

Lol... This is why I base my tire pressures on axle weight. Much better way to do it.

Well I got 335k miles from my tie rods. Farther than 99% of the people here.

The guy in glasses doesn't have to know anything. Just how to put the pump in place, hook it up and press the start button.

What are you using for filter media now?

OEM right from the owners manual is 7.5 k miles. Even from the FSM it's 7.5k miles. always get a chuckle from people using high price synthetics and changing earlier that OEM specified. Then you grab a guy like @cajflynn dino Delo 15w-40 and Fleetguard filter changed oil every 20k miles. Made 1.3 million miles. Hmmm... Like myself 7k to 10k oil changes on 15w-40 Delo and Napa Gold. Here is a older TDR article... Kept in my PDF archive here. End of the article... https://mopar1973man.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=17565

Scam for sure. First, of the Bosch 815 test stand for calibrating the PSG is about $660,000 for one machine. Then the time it takes to process one pump on the Bosch 815 is about 3 hours of testing then the PSG is flashed. The license from Bosch to be a rebuilder is sick high in dollars. This is why there are so few people that are a certified rebuilder.

Yes sir... California plates in my yard?!

Might of been that it was overfilled and the oil was foamed up from the crank whipping air in the oil. When you changed the filter the oil level was reduced enough to keep that from happening.

Get after that... Not long left on those bearings. I've had one fail in a mere few miles and tire was leaning in against the brakes. Yeah do the tie rods and the ball joints you might toss in a track bar too (suggested if it moving at all). Ummm... I just changed my tie rods for the first time at 335k miles. The trick to long life is stock sized tires. Ball joints are going to make 200k miles. The steering box was replaced at 338k miles as well input shaft seal failed (rust). Track bar typically go 150-200k miles for me. Brakes are 180k to 200k miles.

I've seen it... It a custom homemade heatshield out of some rather interesting materials. Covered on top even. The only open side is towards the fender hole.

Then on the website there is a list of the key part numbers.

Near the battery. My problem is the plastic clip failed so the foam protects the line from rub/vibration damage.