Mopar1973Man

I'll admit its rather confusing but that's what came out of the book.

Tap on the text box at the bottom and enter each one by hand. The EQ sliders personally suck. Look cool but impossible to use. Especially when you're trying to hit exactly one number.

This is exactly true... Special X pumps and Hot Rod pumps are now a thing of the past. The other problem like I've learned in tuning now is everyone forgets about their fuel cetane rating. My current tune is bit retarded compared to stock in the cold weather. Being the fuel ignition ability is better as cetane goes up so adding timing on high cetane fuel will actually increase engine load (fuel consumption).

The back seat is even worse... Can't you even afford to keep the interior the same?

Correction for you...

Key has nothing to do with it. The key lock and the key switch are separate parts.

Remember 50:1 ratio small 2 cycle engine can run up 10,000 RPM without damage. 128:1 ratio should cover a majority of all diesel fuel. #1 diesel would be a different animal and would lean towards a richer oil mixture. Even 64:1 would be 2 ounces of oil to 1 gallon of fuel.

Man, that sucks I've got to rebuild my tunes on the 2.7 version... I wish it would import the setting but it don't...

I'll leave it alone and let it go. There is more to be said about it. I'll agree that he's right it is a farce to a degree but what I like about it he's not considered one bit...

I'll have to check the permissions might be a error of setting.

Moving over to Quadzilla forum for more eyes. @Me78569 Tagging Nick to bring him to the post.

Air Separation you won't be able to do. The filter head is design with 2 fittings and straw in the center. So actual engine fuel is delivered from the bottom of the filter and the air rises up and leaves at the top fitting. You can see what I mean kind of in this picture the filter is in on the left fitting. No DDRP pumps. Most of these do not have the full size fittings for 1/2" plumbing. The problem with stand-alone pumps there is no 3rd port for return these pump are more common for cavitation issues because they just return the pressure back to the inlet of the pump.

P0500 is a rear speed sensor code. The sensor is in the rear differential on top. Now are you seeing any issues with your speedometer at all if not then it might be a front sensor that is failing. It's typically best to replace all speed sensor as a set. This that doesn't help it could be a failed tone ring been there...

In those photos I was trying to even find the crack.

Fuel system first then the Quadzilla. That is typically the order. If you do the Quadzilla don't tap the wire till you do get the FASS.

2nd Gen body NEVER had a 4 door cab. That is what is wrong there. The cab was extended and the bed was shorten and moved back. Piss poor job the truck lost major value.

No. Just looks pretty.

Do a full FASS fuel system. If you do the DDRP you still need to buy two spin on filter bases and put a pre filter before the pump and then a 3 micron filter after the pump. Because stock is only 10 micron better filtration is always key to long life of the fuel system. So by the time you add that all together and the fittings and filters you might be in it for the same as a full FASS.

Most likely a wheel alignment problem. Is there any strange tire wheel on the front tires?

Good point. But all my battery cables are in excellent condition and no loss in the connection or cables. The only thing that I can find that is in excess of rating would be grid heaters. So explain this picture and why the fusible link has blown? 400 Amp load? (No this is not my truck but this is a 12V Cummins) Again...

All birds are edible. I would just stand on the wings and pull the legs. Then end up with breast meat. Good eating. Just like the last Grouse I didn't shoot. It flew into the window and broke its neck. Just Walked out stood on the wings pulled the legs. Snap the wings off and wash the beast meat off. Put in a plastic bag and froze it. Week later I made a batch of Top Ramen and boiled that grouse meat up and chopped it up in the Ramen and that was good eating. I've had a few Quail fly into the window still just a bird and they eat just as good as a Grouse.

Most of the problems on our truck tend to be the basic stuff. Fuses, bad connections, broken wire, bad grounds. Going beyond that you getting into digital technology and logic thinking. Lot of people just can't think in logic so the maybe or it could be pops out. That's human to say that. Logic is its on or off but there is no maybe.

Please do... Please Please!

@dave110 Do me a favor. Since you are doing the grid heater on a switch. Let me know later on how your alternator is doing say in 6 months or year later. I'm going to bet you'll find the same answer I do is the grid heater start to draw more current as they age.

I'm trying to get the end game of not having to test anymore and go back to the days of like it was brand new and the alternator last for YEARS with no worries. If I can figure that one out then this conversation will be mute.