Mopar1973Man

If you dim your panel lights at all the switch will increase with heat too. I keep mine wide open and it stays cool.

Retro Shop sold me the full kit. All wiring and 2 assembled headlights. They are even tested and aimed for you. Just bolt them on and plug them in that all. Really simple to do. All ballast, relays and wiring supplied.

Extremely happy... My Morimoto are street legal. Very precise cutoff of light on low beams. High beams the path is huge I've got at least 50 feet into the ditch on the driverside on flat ground. There is a difference @Me78569 , @jlbayes and a few others did the H1 Mini Morimoto's. I'm doing the D2S Morimoto's which is a much bigger lens and seems to have more light. Here is what I bought... http://shop.retroshop.us/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2G.RAM.RETRO http://www.morimotohid.com/ There is a difference. These are Morimoto not an Amazon PNP kit that most get... These are illegal PNP lighting... https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Ballasts-Chrome-Housing-Reflector/dp/B0134TX8C0/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1509630429&sr=8-27&keywords=dodge+ram+hid+headlight These are a joke... I've gotten that same comments about these just horrid lighting. https://www.amazon.com/Projector-Headlight-Ballasts-Housing-Reflector/dp/B013S17SM0/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1509630479&sr=8-20&keywords=dodge+ram+hid+headlight

No. You need to take up the door trim the kick panel by the parking brake pedal needs to be removed. The ground is behind the plastic kick panel near the door. Dodge changed up the headlights. So basically the blubs are power with +12V on the common contact and the headlight switch and dimmer switch control the grounds to the lo and hi. So the ground terminates right near the door hinge behind the plastic kick panel.

Don't bother with sport headlights. Britebox won't do much either. I've already done the sport headlights with relay mods and had all 4 bulbs burning. The path of light is still too narrow and not very bright. Halogen bulbs are big power consumers. Sad part is I ended up replacing the sport headlights in less than 1 year. I highly suggest you just look toward the Morimoto HID's. I know the cost more but you'll be much much happier. Surprising how a 35w HID bulb is way brighter than four 60-watt halogen bulbs burning in sport headlights. https://mopar1973man.com/topic/12306-sport-headlights-installed/ https://mopar1973man.com/topic/12865-morimoto-hids/ (Morimoto D2S)

Wasting your money on filters your changing way too early. You might want to start cutting the can open and looking at the media color. I change filters every 60,000 (not a typo). Here is my last 60k filter... Here is one old pic of my 45k filters... Here is a 15k filter... (Fleetguard)

First off double check your battery terminals and grounds. Being that your reseting the APPS muliple time tend to point back to failing alternator creating issues. I would look at the alternator. I've run across a 3rd Gen truck with the same weird issues but it was the alternator feeding way too high of AC noise to the ECM and creating a bunch of APPS problems. After the alternator was replaced the APPS problem or dead pedal quit. The easiest thing to do is to pull the alternator and have it bench tested for AC ripple voltage.

Grounds for the headlights are NOT under the hood. The headlight grounds are in the driver side kick panel. The center of dash ground goes to the driver side kick panel and that is where rust typically forms.

Too high... I would chase that ground connection. That should be 0 Ohms. So it might not be pulling the relay closed all the way.

Nope, that's a puddle of melted lead terminal from loose connections. You want to get military terminal like I've got pictured below and replace any and all lead that have corrosion in the copper. Once you get all new cables from a welding shop just either solder on new lugs or crimp them on. So you should have what's below.

Check your head light fuses most likely blown both fuses in the PDC.

So I'm not crazy... There is a bluetooth issue.

As far as I know they are still the old in-tank lift pump.

Keep your pumpkin on...

Welcome to the site. As for filter information, I would talk to @AH64ID he's the site filter guru. Might also ask him what to use for lift pump as well. Personally, I would side with AirDog being the pumps are smaller and easier to hide on the truck. Most here will suggest FASS fuel systems.

Sector adjustment is on the top side of the output shaft. Typically its a Allen bolt in the top with a jam nut holding the adjustment. I typically run it to the bottom and then back off about 1.5 turns and lock it down. Make sure your nut is loose enough that you not seating on the nut giving a false bottom. This is the bearing preload adjustment. As you can see there is plenty to adjust on these steering boxes and don't require replacement all the time. If the box is old and lots of miles I suggest talking to Ryan @ Blue Top Steering and getting a seal kit to rebuild your steering box then you can adjust it up tight once again.

Just talk to @IBMobile he'll get you lined out.

I'm at 54k miles in one year just running back and forth taking care of @MoparMom dialysis treatments. Started at 362 miles a trip every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Now I'm down to 250 miles per trip same days. So tomorrow I've got to hop in the saddle and do it again. Heck in another 40k miles I'll have 100k miles on my NV4500 transmission and also proven than Mobil 50 trans fluid doesn't do any harm either. Just keep truckin'

Every April I disconnect my grid heaters and every October I hook them back up.

Might want to talk to @Chris O. he would know the answer to this.

Should have made that a new thread in the 4th gen area. Nice truck. Time to update your signature and garage... Just make sure you get after that fuel filter and get ready to replace injectors in the future. If the grid heater light comes on while your driving you can bet you've got excessive return flow from the injectors.

My best advice is to find a shop your willing to work with and then send the ECM to them and have it bench tested. Also while researching the ECM shops make sure to ask about warranty information and turn around times if there is a warranty issue.

I've heard tales of high mileage VP44 but never had the luck to talk to the actual person always a 3rd person knowledge.

Mine is still randomly hit / miss. Some days it hooks up everytime. Other days you have to start the app, shut it down, start it again, shut it down again. It like it does nothing. Not even attempting to hook to the bluetooth. Then eventually it grabs and connects.

VP44 history... OEM factory pump last 50k miles failed to P0216 code from a failed lift pump. Second pump last 243k miles and also failed with a P0216 code but stuck in full advancement. Working on my third pump now 320k miles on the clock. So the second pump had a good diet of 2 cycle oil all its life and lasted that long. No cetane boosters. No anti-gel. No injector cleaners. Double stacked filters (Factory filter and AirDog filter). Fuel pressure held solid at 15-17 PSI for 11 years now. AC noise tested anytime strange engine behavior is detected.