Mopar1973Man

Is it the pressure regulator in the oil filter base stuck partial open?

Lack of Wait To Start light should trigger a P0381 code. Dave is right a failing ECM will have trouble firing up the WTS light.

Here you go from the Factory Service Manual. oil system.pdf

Might want to do a cluster test. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/30-interior/47-instrument-cluster-testing

Welcome to the site. I'll tell you the best one to talk to is AH64ID he's a good Common Rail guy. He should be along very soon.

True. I'll agree that NOx is why the efficiency is down. Again there is never anything said about NOx in the media. But the biggest hype on the media is carbon. NOx has been a issue since the early 70's if you want to go back to when EGR system started that I can remember. Yeah I know the EPA has it standards but why is all the hype happening? Media... VW getting their hand slapped. Unknown if its a CO2, NOx or particulate matter when the whole VW thing came to be.

The whole thing right now is carbon emissions that everyone is crying about. Rarely have you even heard anyone mention NOx emission which is what creates acid rain. Like Bill's post above its about the CO2 emissions. Now looking from CO2 side then yes that forest fire emit way more. Now the dumb part is all the green plants on the planet absorb CO2 gases and give off O2 as a end result. It's all about creating carbon taxes... Pope’s Flights to Cuba, U.S. Emit More CO2 Than 557,000 Lbs of Coal Nothing said about NOx anywhere...

I've had this conversation with the staff awhile back. The problem is that if you start a new domain name you'll have to wait 8 years to catch up to the power of mopar1973man.com. So the domain will always be a least 8 years behind and never be ahead of the current domain. Search results are based on domain age as a factor. I never expected the site to grow this big so the initial design was just my personal notebook back in 2004. So no matter what I do for a new domain it always be behind mopar1973man.com. If I replace mopar1973man.com then I get to fall off the planet and the site will die. Just changing the forum software took me over 2 year to stabilize Google and other search engine after the URL's changed. Bad enough I'm planning on doing it again I'll be upgrading the forum software to Invision Power Board Suite 4.0 soon. Software is already purchased and waiting for plugins to catch up. So if I buy another domain name it will never have the same power on the search engines. Now buying a existing domain is extremely expensive especially one that is equal in age to the current one.

Like all conversion project is the question is the front suspension going to hold the weight of the massive Cummins? Then the size of fit is next problem. I would say most likely it would fit being that the 1st Gen Dodge you could swap 12V or V8 in the same frame without much work at all. I think the dog house inside the cab might need some customizing to fit the long engine and room for the turbo and exhaust.

This area isn't like ND where jobs and money are plentiful. Very low budget here. Most people are buying second hand vehicles which may or may not have issues. Very rare does anyone buy a new vehicle here in this valley. Again this is one absolute case I know of but there is several others I've talked to local with other brand like Ford having Regen issues. Or in like the case of the fire dept with Ford blowing a EGR cooler and no one wanting to do the job locally because they don't have the know how. True... But if you only get a generic answer and no diagnostic value with some. Like the local Chevron station has a "$50 scan tool" which spits out a Pxxxx number but no other information. If you look up online you'll find that OBDII codes vary from brand to brand and model to model. So just getting a generic definition isn't much help either unless you have the diagnostic book to go with it and how to test for said error codes. Remember for the longest time every one said that P1693 code was the Injection Pump failing... Should also look at error codes now... No longer a decimal number now manufacturfes are using Hexidemical numbers for codes because of all the different things they want to test for.

Flip side... There are owners that... 1) Too far from a dealer to get things fixed under warranty or not 2) Just want the truck to run without all the BS alarms scream "Regen" 3) Want to at least know what the Check Engine light is on for. From my point of view the phone ring here with newer and newer truck having issues. No local diesel shop that want or willing to work on them. So it depends on where you live it a big city where dealers and shop are plentiful sure. Out here where everything is a minimum of 100 miles for services might not be the same.

No joke after doing the 6.7L delete for the local gent I was shocked at the power difference. Still stock fuelled but man lot more power that stock trim for 2007-2008 truck. Much more power than my 2002 even its current lay out. Owner didn't want to ask but I told him for sure his 6.7L would bet me hands down for power now. Thing is there is still a market for doing diagnostic and troubleshooting articles for the newer generations. Just need folk to write the articles...

I would welcome any diesel owners... Still the majority would be Dodge / Ram Cummins but I would welcome Toyota and Nissan diesel as well. We would have to pass this through the BoD. I'm sure they would say "yes" as well.

California has laws now to force you to trade up to newer trucks. Our fire department is buying these California rejects for super cheap and making fire trucks out of them. I'm glad I live in Idaho away from smog testing "yet". Just tell me that any vehicle emits this kind of emissions... One forest fire emits more than all the US vehicles on the road... (Picture was shot at 12 noon)

Yeah... I say you found it. This one was just as bad at about 3 VAC... As you can see the diodes are well cooked. Increasing the size of the alternator may just increase the failure. As amperage goes up so does the heat on the diodes so make sure the diodes are rated even higher than the 200 amps other than that you just going to cook them quicker. Also remember to increase your gauge of wire from the alternator stock wire is only marginal good enough for the full 140 Amps. Watts (Heat) = Voltage (13.5 to 14.5) x Amperage As more amperage means more heat...

I look at it from the stand point of normal cruising the ratio is most likely close to 1:1 for most people but its when the hammer is dropped that things get stupid quick. Like I know my Hx35W and my +50 HP injectors and Edge Comp is pushing the upper end pretty hard. But I'm normally not drag racing everyone on the highway nor am I towing day in and day out. So understanding the limitations of my set up is key... There has to be some sort of ratio that is usable and what is not. Heck we could always throw a H1C turbo on that thing has a huge exhaust housing at 21cm2 that should do it right...

That should work fine. The machine should put load on the alternator too so the diodes will warm up a bit and might fail as the load is put on the alternator.

Harbor Freight has 1/2" drills with chuck key. http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/electric-drills.html

Pull the alternator take to a shop to be tested. Ask for a diode ripple test to be done. Tomorrow morning works better for me.

OK... What is the AC noise voltage from the alternator?

Keep going... EPA, CARB, etc. Take down most of these alphabet agencies...

Ran so far 253k miles... Chevron Delo, Mobil Delvac, Valvoline Blue, etc. 15w-40. No issues on petroleum products.

So basically the tone ring came loose?