Mopar1973Man

I also use a dial tire pressure gauge and it's right on the money for the most part.

Because Wild & Free mention his tire pressure are set for 50 PSI in the front axle. So doing this systematically I figure I would drop 5 PSI front and rear and see how things ran from there. Hence I I made this thread thanking Wild & Free for the stated pressure. Because over-inflating does create wandering and instability issues. Even at calculated pressure it just a bit too high. But now drop the 5 PSI off and it very smooth and stable. Let got of the wheel and even the trucker ruts don't pull it around. I would rather figure out the cause of a issue that buying a bunch of mods to resolve a issue. (3rd Gen Track Bar, Steering box brace, etc.) So what I've done is returned a 12 year old truck back to like new with simple fixes than high dollar mods. I like free things don't you!?

I've still got my OEM Starter after 242k miles later. One set of contacts that's it.

Actually the hard start hot is excessive cranking pressure not cracked diaphragm. The 027 REV pumps should not have a diaphragm but a hard steel plate nothing to crack. But the problem is during cranking if the pressure is over about 12 PSI the VP44 gets over advanced and has a hard time starting. Optimal cranking pressure should be between 7-10 PSI. Really common for people with aftermarket pumps with adjustable regulators and they crank them up way too high trying to keep the WOT pressure above 14 PSI so there idle is way up at 20-22 PSI and cranking pressure ends up well above 15 PSI.

OMG! Cowboy! Very Very Impressive. Now seeing what you've done is more or less made a standalone gauge set for the 12V truck that doesn't rely on the CCD network or the CANBUS. I to the point now I want to start building something too. I was so impressed by that I need to get digging for something for the 24V now. I do like you design a bunch because its completely standalone and doesn't rely on any engine sensor or computer information. (12V on have the PCM for minor stuff...)

Front tires at 53 PSI which is my calculated pressure minus 5 PSI. This is figuring on 4410 front axle weight. Rear tires at 39 PSI which is my calculated pressure minus 5 PSI. This is figuring on 3340 rear axle weight. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/35-exterior/354-tire-inflation-formula Single Tire: (Axle Weight / 2) / Tire Capacity weight x Tire Max Pressure = Inflation Pressure So your pressure requirement will vary from tire size, tire capacity, etc. So make sure to do the math first before just attempting to use my numbers. I've got both sets of numbers already for fully loaded and empty truck.

More info. I gather its something I gotta build? What do I buy? Where do I buy the stuff? What's it cost?

There is a write up for the starter contacts. As for doing starter brushes LarryB has a full rebuild kit for cheap.

The only thing I can think of is engine oil. Nothing else near it.

Still want more information... I'm looking for something like that to tap the CANBUS and/or CCD network and get more information. Could I produce somthing like this for the 24V? Seriously I'll toss my ScanGauge in a heartbeat if I could...

More information wanted. What are you using... Homemade? I want to know...

Here is one article I just remembered... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/450-valve-seal-spring-valve-replacement-24v-head

Apparently the oil is getting push past the seal into the pump if the power steering fluid is black with engine oil. I've never really paid attention to the seal placement is it riding on the input shaft or what... But some how your getting oil into the power steering. Unless the power steering system is that contaminated. Still scratching my head.

Just little things I've done has extended the life span of the front end. Like power steering flushing, adjustment of the gear box, using a grease needle and injecting grease in the joints without zerks, tire pressures, size smaller tires, etc. 242k miles now and only replaced the ball joints and the track bar. Not bad. JAG1 you'll see when you get down here.

Get this tool. Then just run TDC and remove the springs... Then change your valve seals.

Sounds like the engine oil is getting into the power steering through the front seal of the power steering pump. Sounds like you might be due for a pump change. I would flush the system out before you hook up the return lines to be sure to flush the engine oil back out.

Ever since you mentioned the lower pressures you run in the front axles I decided to tweak with mine a bit and adjust a few things like sector adjustment on the steering gear box now. This is the best the truck has ran from steering now. It very stable and tracks well now with no sawing action now. So I wanted to say "Thank You" to Wild & Free because my truck is very enjoyable to drive now and doesn’t require all those crazy mods like steering box brace or 3rd gen track bar. All factory front end parts!

Don't discount the aluminium canopies. Mine barely weights 90 pounds and I can lift it on and off by myself. The bad thing to aluminium is the frames are very weak and topper don't last long. Mines about 6 years old and the rear frame is broke. The problem why is the offroad environment kills the frame with too much flexing.

What's your fuel pressure during cranking? This will give a clue if there is air in the lines or not. Is there any external fuel leaking around the head? Injection lines or the return lines? Remember the return is at the back of the and can only be seen from under the truck. Suction leak? You'll need 2 people and pressurize the fuel tank after running. This will force fuel out a fuel line with a suction leak because now the lines are all load with fuel.

What you can do next go around. Do the reset password again and when you get the email copy and paste the password to a notepad. Then when you get logged in again you can copy and paste from notepad to change to what you want then. Sad thing is I can't see passwords even as a Admin. Scary part is most of my passwords are 64 characters long. I use a program called KeePassX to store all my passwords. For example one of my generated passwords. X=1W.!]OHtKGX7WuikGny>*KCo0i[wC#/&qHqNtj5MG=V0AWUQ;Z./Gv<={.\&l

Really nice!

Very good video. Worth keeping!

I cheated I upgrade fog / driving lights instead. Even my 96 got upgraded.

It amazing the amount of time and effort that has to go into a web site to make it work. You might want to call me and we'll talk about it more.

Just the threads. I just talked to Ed on the phone and he told me about it. So if you worried about boost leaks you can put a coating of silicone on the threads.